Brake idea, using existing brake.

So, I have been thinking of this for a little while now.

What if you removed the side caliper for a standard brake system, and utilized the existing brake disc as a mount for a go-kart rotor and caliper setup?

I remember Junkstar was taking about using it for a side PTO before, where is where I got the idea. Originally for my build I was going to use a standard rotor on the axle setup, but I dont have proper clearances to do so.

Using the side brake should still keep things clean, while still allowing easy removal for work on the tractor or reverting to stock.

Just an idea, I was wondering if anybody else has thought about this.

I guess this would work if you could find a disk that would fit on the spine shaft and finding a caliper that would mount onto to gearbox (im guess you want to put the disk in the same place as the stock brake) I have not seen any disk and caliper sets which are small enough to mount on a tractor gearbox but you guys seem to be able to get stuff we can't so you might be able to find them.

CornishMorgan wrote:

I guess this would work if you could find a disk that would fit on the spine shaft and finding a caliper that would mount onto to gearbox (im guess you want to put the disk in the same place as the stock brake) I have not seen any disk and caliper sets which are small enough to mount on a tractor gearbox but you guys seem to be able to get stuff we can't so you might be able to find them.

Well what I was thinking was using the old disc as a mount. The caliper could just be mounted in the frame.

I guess that could work. Might be worth a go.

Now if only BMI didnt charge $10 to ship their $4 rotor. I have a spare brake disc I could use to test it.

lol yeah that is a but lame. Is that $10 a flat rate charge? Could you add anything else to the order it make it worth the shipping?

I think they ship by size and weight, not flat rate. If they used a flat-rate envelope it would be $5. unfortunately I dont think I need anything else from them other than the rotor cause I use eBay mainly.

Can you not get a one from ebay?

I looked but not too hard.

As long as your diff is locked, should work fine. Spins much faster than the axle, so you wouldn't need a huge brake.

My Murray set in my picture has a stock brake and stops on a dime, I am a smelter, so I replace the worn out silica brake shoes with lead ones, then I put a bolt in the huge spring that runs to the brake

Stretch44875 wrote:

As long as your diff is locked, should work fine. Spins much faster than the axle, so you wouldn't need a huge brake.

Would a locked diff even make a difference since the brake runs off the input gears? My diff is locked regardless, but it would still function the same as stock.

Murray modder wrote:

My Murray set in my picture has a stock brake and stops on a dime, I am a smelter, so I replace the worn out silica brake shoes with lead ones, then I put a bolt in the huge spring that runs to the brake

Send some my way haha. These little brake pucks will probably wear out as soon as I hit the brake. Was thinking of getting some old pads off a car in the shop and dremeling out a section to fit.

The only issue is if the trans breaks inside, you would still have no brakes connected to the axles and would not be able to stop.

Murray modder wrote:

My Murray set in my picture has a stock brake and stops on a dime, I am a smelter, so I replace the worn out silica brake shoes with lead ones, then I put a bolt in the huge spring that runs to the brake

Is this better than the standard shoes. What lead did you use to make these . Presume you used a sand cast . Is it also possible to buy lead and cut it down or is te lead you used special please

Did this awhile ago and it works great except the pads wore out pretty fast it also is unlocked and it skids the tires at full speed

Thats pretty need is it from a push bike as it looks good , How did you mount the caliper as this must be the hard part. Also the original disk floats how did you get around this please?

The rotor and caliper came off of a pocket rocket and I mounted the caliper by making an adapter plate using the original caliper mounting bolts and I tooled the original disc and bolted the new one up any more q's happy to answer them

My question is.. is could you convert a vertical input tranny to horizontal input off the brake shaft?

No. That is directly connected to the axle. No gears, neutral, or reverse.

FOSWMT wrote:

Also the original disk floats how did you get around this please?

To take a stab at directly answering this yet unanswered question-

Single acting disk break systems are such: The caliper applies braking pressure from one side only. From there, something must float in order to equalize braking pressure on both sides of the rotor. In the case of the factory brake, the caliper is fixed and the rotor floats. When braking, the caliper applies pressure from the outboard side. This squeezes the floating rotor into contact with the fixed inboard pad. If the rotor could not float, the brake would be rendered near completely ineffective.

A more common methodology behind single-acting disk brakes, is the floating caliper. The rotor is fixed in position, and the caliper floats. It is designed and mounted in such a way as to let the caliper slide side-to-side on it's bracketry. When the brakes are applied, the caliper begins to apply pressure against one side of the rotor. Once the pad begins to make firm contact- and since the rotor cannot move- the caliper's own force against the rotor causes the caliper to push away from the contacting side of the rotor, bringing the opposing side into contact. This equalizes the pressure from both sides. If the caliper were to freeze on it's slides and be rendered unable to move, braking would be rendered nearly ineffective.

In the OP's example, the system has been changed from a floating rotor to a fixed rotor. Therefore, in order for the system to perform as expected, the caliper must float. Any single-acting bike brake I have ever seen is of the floating caliper design. I believe it is a safe assumption that this is what was used.

When I get around to the brakes on MULEII, I will be providing an example of a double-acting caliper. In this case, the caliper is capable of applying pressure from BOTH sides evenly, and both the caliper and rotor maintain a fixed position. Hope this clears things up.

I just got a great idea. You could do the 4 wheel drive, with rear steer axle, using a chain drive, connecting the transaxles through the brake shafts. This means you would only have to shift one transaxle. And could remove most if the gears and reverse in the other one. This would also work well for tandem rear axles.

You might just have something there, amigo!

As a matter of fact, it'd probably be a good idea at this point to remove the input shaft and bevel gear, and plug the hole. It'll cut down on rolling resistance, and offer one less place for the oil to leak out (should you have oil in it).

Another possibility may exist: To remove the input pulley and replace it with a brake rotor...

You certainly could do that. Put transaxle in highest gear so rpms are down.

For giggles, you could hook up another engine to the extra transaxle, and have a back up power source.

Would it be possible to see your bracket and the parts separately please as would like to have a go at making this .

k2500life wrote:

The rotor and caliper came off of a pocket rocket and I mounted the caliper by making an adapter plate using the original caliper mounting bolts and I tooled the original disc and bolted the new one up any more q's happy to answer them