MightyRaze's The Green Machine

Doug wrote:

Something catastrophic must've happened for it to stop like that. I had the whole bottom end (crank output cover) come loose on one of those oppys and it ran fine.

Yeah, I don't quite get it.  I plan on pulling the engine this weekend and look inside.  If I have to, I'll scab some parts together and get a runner again.

mr.modified wrote:

Does it turn easy by hand or is it tight or draggy?

Before today, it was easy to turn by hand. Right now, I cannot turn it by hand at all.

Failed to mention, I tried with plugs out as well. I also realized there isn't any end to end play now either.

Sounds kinda like a bearing tightened up. If it was a rod bearing, I wouldn't think that would change any feel of end play though as you'd think the wrist pin would still move some when you went to move the crank. Kind of rare for a main bearing to go bad unless you run it out of oil. Even then the rods generally go first. Not good that it's tight tho. Post pics if you find anything!

I have the engine out.

Oil was good.
Popped off the PTO side cover.  So far, it looks good?  Still super tight, I can turn it with big plyers and flywheel.

I'm starting to lean towards rod cap at this time.  I haven't gotten into the valves yet, but not sure that would be the problem.

OK, UPDATES!

I took out piston # 1 and the tension INSTANTLY released and engine turns over like butter as it should.  Looking at the rod bearing.  It is scored bad.  I'm wondering if garbage was still in the engine and got in there and got it out of spec.  Crank still looks minty, no scores there.  Also, the rod cap for # 1 is warped now.

I have another set of rods for the engine, but they are a little different so I will need the change both out.  Might as well, I'm this deep in.  Also, since I have 2 dippers, I'll run both.  It's recommended under 2000 rpm I think.

Argh... all I have is 40cu rods.  No 42cu rods.  Wonder what would happen if I used the 40's?  Maybe drop HP to 16?

Nope, need the crank to go with them. I have that as well!

OK, I saved the crank that goes with the rods and the actual block used to convert to horizontal. Got the crank and the rods/pistons installed, but crank is tight.  Need to figure that out.

Dang it. Output shaft is way too long on my other crank.

Decided the cheapest route was to just get a new rod since everything else is OK. Now to put everything else back together.

Forgot to link this the other day.

Currently I am toying with the idea of putting this dozer/snow blade on the Green Machine.  The handles are too narrow for the hood, but I am contemplating using the winch to raise/lower the blade.



I once had this on my LT1k at one time using a winch.  So... doing this seems to have merit.

I believe RCG made a front end loader for one using a winch it seemed to work good

Still teetering on the idea.  I don't really use it anymore.  And all I need to do with my suburban plate is bend it back into shape.  That and I have easily 375-400lbs in weight I can easily put on the rear of the suburban if needed to use it.

Decided against the blade for now.  I did clean up the rear bumper so I am not busting my shins anymore.

Was:



Is:

No more injuries on those ends.