my brother picked up a golf cart the other day for $350, we have no idea what brand it is due to all identifying marks had been painted over, it had a running 8hp briggs horizontal shaft and had been modified to run that engine, but the briggs smoked bad, so we went to get a new engine, originally he was going to put a 212 predator on it, but ended up with a 420 because he wanted the electric start, so now he's got $750 in this golf cart, but it's still at least $500 to $700 cheaper than anything he could find around here, we're going to see if the tires and wheels off a rocketa 4 wheeler I recently picked up cheap( junk engine) will fit on it until I decide what to do with it, we found out the briggs was most likely just fine, the PO had put the pulse pump line down on the crankcase and it was filling the pump with oil, which was making it's way to the carb and seems to be what is causing it to smoke, if it turns out this is the case I may put it on the 4wheeler with a torque converter, provided I can figure out a way to hook it up to the shaft drive on the roketa
Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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NICE!! Didn't know they made headers like that for front wheel drives. What kind of computer is in it and do you have to reflash it to delete the cat signals
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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do you have to reflash it to delete the cat signals
I was wondering that same thing, be nice not to have the light on in the dash all the time. Do the headers have provisions for the original O2 sensors to go back in?
Cool upgrade at any rate, I'd love to hear how it sounds.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Yes it has the bing for the o2 sensor, slightly different location since I got rid of the u-bend. Now it points to the side instead of straight up.
Yes with this I’ll need a reflash, but I was planning on getting it tuned to get rid of the traction control and speed limiters. The way the traction control is set up on these is really hard on the transmission, and these things need all the help they can get. Especially with my lead foot.
I’m gonna run two 03-06 Chevy truck trans coolers in addition to the “factory” cooler in my radiator (factory in quotes since it’s an aftermarket radiator). I’ll go from the trans, to the radiator, to one truck cooler, into the other truck cooler, and back to the trans. Think of a simple series electrical circuit. Should be enough cooling I would think.
On top of THAT, I’m gonna put a set of stiffer springs (shift kit) from ZZP to boost the pressure in the transmission to make shifts quicker, firmer, and to hold the clutch packs tighter. Trying to make this thing last with my spirited driving and perform decent
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SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
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Whoa, that is super super cool. I didn't even realize there was such a thing! Dang shame you don't have the blower shroud or head tins, I'd love to know the year. Must be a real early one.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Sweet. The oppy i got out of Budgie came with breaker points, but somebody put a regular coil on sometime later. I never bothered to take the little cover off to look inside. I think most oppy blocks are cast so they can have points, but only the early production ones had them.
Very cool tidbit of information. Hey mighty, you think we can make some threads that pool information about certain engines? Like the Kohler K series, Briggs singles, Briggs opposed, vanguards, Honda GX, stuff like that. Like a tech article outlining all the quirks and weak points of every common engine
And maybe a thread outlining all the common transaxles and how to tell the differences?
Subject: 
January 30th 2019, 8:13 pm
