Tiny tractor build.

Well it looks like I'm going to need a new steering gear. Missing a tooth and it likes to get stuck.

@Ifitaintbroke if you happen to need it I think I have a second gen steering box somewhere

ranch king pro 08 wrote:

@Ifitaintbroke if you happen to need it I think I have a second gen steering box somewhere

I'm new to this stuff, what is second gen?

@Ifitaintbroke it's a steering box I pulled off of an LT1000 they're a tighter steering with less slop, Here's a video from RCG it explains how to convert it pretty well or if you want really good steering go for a rack and pinion or a Volkswagen steering box

ranch king pro 08 wrote:

@Ifitaintbroke it's a steering box I pulled off of an LT1000 they're a tighter steering with less slop, Here's a video from RCG it explains how to convert it pretty well or if you want really good steering go for a rack and pinion or a Volkswagen steering box

That's pretty cool. I really like the beetles box idea but iI need to learn how to weld first.

> I know nothing about tire sizes or mounting them

I was working as a Ford mechanic when they had the Firestone ATX tire recall.  I  think it would be safe to say I have mounted 100s of tires    

I think the most important thing is a good expensive set of tire spoons for both the bigger and smaller tires.  You can make due with a cheap HF tire machine (the larger one).I am making a custom setup just for lawn mower tires, I think I will post the pictures once I finish the welding.

After mounting them, I usually balance my truck tires with copper clad BBs.

I am from up north and had a 30 acre recreation property in central Maine, so, I have a passing knowledge with chain and cable use. BUT, I was surprised how well chains worked in mud and especially on leaves when using my LT.

If I had only two choices, chains on bald turf tires or brand new mud tires, I would have to think about it. Chains provide superior traction on everything except rocks. Climb right over fallen trees limbs and do not load up as bad in deep Georgia clay mud.

I see tire machines for cheap at auctions all the time, I just have not found a real expensive one ($8,000) that sold for less then $1200. Still waiting and shopping ...

JB_4x4 wrote:

 Climb right over fallen trees limbs and do not load up as bad in deep Georgia clay mud.

Makes sense. I'm not going mudding though, at least not any time soon.

Got the engine together and in. Runs great, but I only made it about 6 feet before the belt snapped into 2 PIECES. I've never done that before. After a new belt I should be tractoring again! Also when the belt broke it smashed into the choke cable, ruining it. So I need another one of those too.

> So I need another one of those too.

I keep a Sten complete throttle with handle and other various cables in stock, just for that reason. Plus, I have manual and hydraulic swagger so I can make my own using stops and ferrules if needed. I think I might buy a 100 foot roll of both the wire and housing which ends up being much cheaper then buying pre-assembled ones once you use more then two of them in a year.

I bought a bag of 100 aluminum 1/8" aluminum stops and ferrules off Amazon and they have been performing well so far.

Ok tractor is running and choke is fixed. Now wishing i had saved my money and got an 8n. If there were more attachments for a sleeve hitch, it wouldnt be so bad. Its a fun little tractor tho.

Around here (Atlanta Athens) the Ford 8n/9n in non-running condition they "try" to get $3500, so, I would not regret having a nice running Craftsman with a 5 lug for less than 1/2 of that.

There is a Craftsman in the area for $900 that has a 3 point hitch on it. If it drops in price a bit, I might look at it.

If you had to replace all 4 tires on a Ford 8n with new rubber it would set you back a bit.

JB_4x4 wrote:

Around here (Atlanta Athens) the Ford 8n/9n in non-running condition they "try" to get $3500, so, I would not regret having a nice running Craftsman with a 5 lug for less than 1/2 of that.

There is a Craftsman in the area for $900 that has a 3 point hitch on it.  If it drops in price a bit, I might look at it.

If you had to replace all 4 tires on a Ford 8n with new rubber it would set you back a bit.

I might sell mine...

Ifitaintbroke wrote:

Ok tractor is running and choke is fixed. Now wishing i had saved my money and got an 8n. If there were more attachments for a sleeve hitch, it wouldnt be so bad. Its a fun little tractor tho.

What kind of attachemtent you looking for?

I've seen the following for sleeve hitches. You just have to look around.

Moldboard plow (i have one)
Box scrapers
angle blades
rakes
disc harrows
tillers

Some duplicates, but  anything you see here.  



Heck you could even make some. 

If a sleeve hitch isn't up your alley, they made an adapter kit to put the suburban 3 pt on the newer craftsman.  Looks like one could be made.




Sorry I don't have the part#s or are these my pictures.  It was to give an idea for options..

Thanks. I have a disc harrow currently. I've only seen the agri fab tiller, which is not impressive at all due to its lack of counter rotating tines. A plow would be great, but they are expensive. I'll hold on to it and use it for now.

I've got the 633 in the garage. All seals should be in tomorrow, except the hi/lo which I haven't found yet. Big question is should I lock it? I'm not doing any mudding, just using it as a tractor. Will probably be getting some grippy tires soon.

We like to lock for Mud and Hills. If neither is involved, I wouldn't worry. I don't know if I found the hi/lo. Maybe ISaveTractors.com?

MightyRaze wrote:

We like to lock for Mud and Hills.  If neither is involved, I wouldn't worry.  I don't know if I found the hi/lo.  Maybe ISaveTractors.com?

Scratch that, didn't see anything there.

MightyRaze wrote:

We like to lock for Mud and Hills.  If neither is involved, I wouldn't worry.  I don't know if I found the hi/lo.  Maybe ISaveTractors.com?

My land is kind of hilly but nothing it can't handle. Better tires should be all I need.

Got the 633 in the shop, ready to tear down. I couldn't get the brake drum off, so it's soaking in penetrant. I'm thinking about making a fender mounted shifter, that will control the gears and hi/lo with 1 knob.

I think the brake drum on those is on a tapered shaft, will take a bit of a shock to break it loose probably.

Boot is cracked badly. I hope there is a replacement for it.

Didn't this originally have some kind of friction material? I can't see any evidence of it.


Here is where I want to put the shifter. The hi/lo lever will need to be moved back, under the fender. It will serve as a pivot point for the transaxle shifter. My plan is that the transaxle will shift normally, and you pull up and push down the shifter for hi/lo.

Boot is still in stock.  Same one they have used for decades.

Shifter Boot link.  or you can get off any other place you find them, ebay, etc.

It is missing brake material.

Here is a link to religning them.

https://www.atltf.com/t7135-bandbrake-repair-re-line

Hope that helps.

MightyRaze wrote:

Boot is still in stock.  Same one they have used for decades.

Shifter Boot link.  or you can get off any other place you find them, ebay, etc.

It is missing brake material.

Here is a link to religning them.

https://www.atltf.com/t7135-bandbrake-repair-re-line

Hope that helps.

Thanks! The fluid looked good, but there is some sludge with sparkles in it.

Still haven't found the hi/lo seal. It doesn't appear to be leaking (at least not badly), and I plan to use straight lucas, so I don't think it will be a big deal.

Ifitaintbroke wrote:

Still haven't found the hi/lo seal. It doesn't appear to be leaking (at least not badly), and I plan to use straight lucas, so I don't think it will be a big deal.

When doing my tractor, I could not find that one either. If it isn't leaking, should be ok. My other tractor it leaks, but only when shifting it.

First finished welding project. And yes, that is a glasspack.