Measure twice, cut three times, cuss out the fact your tool is walking, fill holes with the welder, cuss again cause the steel warped, throw away the part and repeat the process. Story of my life lol
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Measure twice, cut three times, cuss out the fact your tool is walking, fill holes with the welder, cuss again cause the steel warped, throw away the part and repeat the process. Story of my life lol
This happens to me about 10 times a day
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Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15444 Posts : 10860 Location : Oklahoma
Got sidetracked today a little bit. Got the tractor hanging up in the air so I can twirl it around to check some stuff.
The eyebolt was just the ticket. Those pull pins will be replaced with cotter pins in the final product. Using them so I don't kill dozens of cotter pins.
Since it is part of the same system, I replaced the 2 small springs that attach to the dash with a larger stronger clutch spring from a Murray Widebody attached to the side panel. It's Li'l Red's original. I found it after I got a new one last year when I refreshed Red.
Notes to self: Stock axle is 27inches it appears. 14+13 (axle end to center line) I need 2 inches one side and 3 the other side to clear the wheel hubs then another 1 inch each side for being able to bolt/clip the axle end. 34" to be snug. 36" will give more wiggle room and wheel placement options. Overall width will be around 42-44 inches.
Well, I found some smaller rods for my welder. Some that I used with my old 110 welder. I had a bit of a learning curve and took a lot for them to penetrate. Still need some touch up tacks to plug a couple divots.
Found my panel that covered the one opening on the left. I'll leave that.
Not much, but we did get a little more than a dusting of snow tonight. I figure it will be gone by morning.
So, I am at a point of modification. I was originally going to stretch the front a few inches, but in the process of installing the 2300, I ended up pushing the back out about 3 inches... I have the wheelbase I was somewhat looking for. I'm at full pause on the front while I think about this. I don't think it would be that difficult to extend, it's a matter of "Do I need to?"
I dunno.. I went ahead and popped off the front axle and using some boards extended it 4 inches. Will throw the axle out in front of the grill for that rat look I think. I should grab the hood and grill to see.
Here’s my insane opinion. I’d replace the J spindles with C spindles to emphasize the hot rod look. It’d be a lot of work, but you’d have something more stable. Also, maybe the rack from Sasquatch could find its way into here and you could really get some speed capability
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Yeah, that would be some work. It would lower the front more too. Not sure I would like to do that. I am pretty happy with the bell crank on these old sears. Tey are pretty solid. I am replacing the ball joints with heim. I already have them on the way. I was able to get some 1/2-20 ones so I can use the existing half inch tie rods.
I should have the steering pretty tight when I am done.
Next question, I have some 1/4-inch 3x2 angle iron. I think that is overkill in the extension especially since I am only looking at an additional 12 inches off the front. I think a 1/8-inch would be plenty and more manageable.
Got to get the generator prepped for this week, so I'll have a pause for a bit on the build We are expecting an ice storm tues night into Thursday switching to snow. No know accumulation yet. Then again, it may do nothing but get super cold. Looks to bottom out around 5 Thursday evening into Friday.
Thanks @Doug. I sat out and looked at it for a while. Thinking where I may want to go with this build. I decided to see what this looked like with the axle at 6" beyond the frame and was like. "Yeah. That's perfect!" I liked the 4 inch mark. But the 6" is just right! At 4 inches I would have thought 1/8th would have been thick enough for the angle. At 6" 3/16th is definitely the minimum for this thing now. Tractor is just too heavy for the 1/8th. If you look at Li'l Red, the front bumper got bent up with the 1/8th thick angle.