The "Husqvarnie"

I got this YTH24V48 for free, about a year ago. 24hp Intek, hydro, and 48 inch deck. Thing is amazing. I've cleared over an acre of thick scrub and brush with it. It does fantastic as a weedeater, and keeps my lawn down. I keep breaking it, however. Seems like I run it a bit too hard. I'm considering getting some knobbies for it, as it gets stuck very easily, aaaaaaaand I apparently ran over a pear branch yesterday......

Anyway, here's some pics:

That is a beautiful piece of machine ... the early 1980s F-250! It's something to cluck about!

> I'm considering getting some knobbies for it,

Probably would have flatten any tire if it missed the tread, good news is a bicycle patch from the inside would probably fix that. Running the turf tires at 5 psi or so helps, but, when the rubber is hard like a rock from being old, only a limited amount of traction no matter what you do. Except chains, that works the best for traction off road/on or off grass, on anything other rocks from my experience.

I have these for better traction on Murray and just bought a second set that I might install on my regular mower.



Set of 2 ATV UTV Tires 18x9.5-8 18x9.5x8 Load Range B All-Terrain Tires 4PR Tubeless
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ2T3CH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

If you bring a strap, most of the time you can just pull it front or backwards out of a rut, if side rocking does not work.

Knobbies are probably the best for just wet grass if you do not want to tear stuff up. Though I have not had chains rip stuff up, your mileage may vary.

You have armrests and a cup holder, I need to upgrade :-D

[quote="JB_4x4"]That is a beautiful piece of machine ... the early 1980s F-250! It's something to cluck about!  

Oh that old thing? Yeah it's been quite a project.... been working on it for over 4 years. It's almost done.
I tore down the engine last year and had it rebuilt. 460, punched out to a 472. Custom cam, 508/541 lift (favors exhaust side) 114 lobe sep. Heads ported by me. Head studs, ARP rod bolts, Edelbrock Performer intake. Points distributor with a Pertronix module, and MSD analog ignition. Tri-y headers of unkown origin, currently has no pipes. Backed by a ZF 5-speed from an 88 F250. Custom instrument cluster with autometer gauges. 4x4. Holds 57 gallons of gas and needs every drop. Fixing to get a winch bumper. It's an 86'.

It's what my 1989 F-150 wants to grow into ... once I get it running again and on the road. Been about 30 months since I bought it. 460 with a 5 speed is a nice towing setup.

Arright hydro guys, help me out here. Was cutting brush the other day, and suddenly noticed that it wouldn't go more than about 1/3 to 1/2 normal top speed. The pedal feels normal up to a certain point, and then feels...spongy? I guess? Not sure how to describe it. Anyway it's parked right now, but I need it badly.

I would assume with 24 HP you have a heavier duty axle then found in the cheaper mowers.

If the mower has a 4 or 5 lug bolt pattern, most likely you can check the transaxle fluid with a dipstick to see if it is low. You really need to get the model number off the label to start to solve the problem. On my Craftsman, which has a hand speed control, it started acting that way, all it took was topping off the transaxle with 15w-50 (?) synthetic oil since it was a tad low. I just made a dipstick out of a thin piece of wood to figure the correct level.

My Cub Cadet with the 310 (?) series transaxle has an actual dipstick.

Some times a complete drain and refill works.

i would check to see if the belt is fully engaged, with the engine off, because if the adjuster hangs up and does not put enough pressure on the belt, it will slip under load and not drive the pump. I fixed two LTs by lubing and snapping the adjuster back and forth until it engaged and released properly. On another two, I had to replace the idler. One was frozen, the other just sloppy.

I would certainly start with the fluid level check because it should be the easiest thing to do.

JB_4x4 wrote:

I would assume with 24 HP you have a heavier duty axle then found in the cheaper mowers.

If the mower has a 4 or 5 lug bolt pattern, most likely you can check the transaxle fluid with a dipstick to see if it is low.  You really need to get the model number off the label to start to solve the problem.  On  my Craftsman, which has a hand speed control, it started acting that way, all it took was topping off the transaxle with 15w-50 (?) synthetic oil since it was a tad low.  I just made a dipstick out of a thin piece of wood to figure the correct level.

My Cub Cadet with the 310 (?) series transaxle has an actual dipstick.

Some times a complete drain and refill works.

i would check to see if the belt is fully engaged, with the engine off, because if the adjuster hangs up and does not put enough pressure on the belt, it will slip under load and not drive the pump.  I fixed two LTs by lubing and snapping the adjuster back and forth until it engaged and released properly.  On another two, I had to replace the idler.  One was frozen, the other just sloppy.

I would certainly start with the fluid level check because it should be the easiest thing to do.

Thanks. I'll try to get to it next week.

@Ifitaintbroke definitely check your belt tension too I've had a couple 1000 series Cubs with a k46 do the same thing and it was just belt tension

Guess I should update on what happened here. My idler pulley melted and the belt wouldn't hold any tension. Go figure.

That was my problem on my Murray wide body Ultra. Just the idler pulley was keeping belt tension.