I guess I will kick this thing off. I don't know if I will be able to accomplish or finish what I would like... but it is a challenge and I want to take it. I had hoped to build the Green Machine in the build-off but was uncertain if it would happen. So here goes another idea I had.
My project is called "Dirty Rat"
My plan is to take this 1977 Sears Suburban Hydro, scab in the rear of a 1985 Murray GT with the locked Peerless 2300 from Kal. I also plan on trying to lower it a bit if possible. I'm calling it Dirty Rat, because my hope is for it to be an offroad trail riding rat rod sears. Not sure of all the details at this time, but hope it goes well and can get something that I am thinking built out! Currently all I have is what I have. I do not have any parts planned or purchased for this yet. It will be a journey in building.
Main source for parts:
<no longer need parts from Kal, it's been saved> Another Admin will need to OK my entry for ethical reasons...
Have a question? Ask me! Type in "@MightyRaze" in your post!
Last edited by MightyRaze on November 30th 2022, 7:48 pm; edited 6 times in total (Reason for editing : <no longer need parts from Kal, it's been saved>)
MN mudder likes this post
Doug Site Owner
2500+ Posts
2500+ Posts!
2014 Build-Off Entrant
2014 Build-Off Entrant
2017 Build-Off Entrant
2017 Build-Off Entrant
Age : 29 Join date : 2012-12-24 Points : 7705 Posts : 3044 Location : Lebanon County, PA
Pretty much 14 degrees and snow here right now. May not get to it for a while. First thing will be getting it out of the shed.
Kinda crazy how down where youre at its 14 and snow, meanwhile it was low 50s and pouring here all day. PA is weird and broken.
It was 66 with hit and miss rain the 31st at 8pm then 24hrs later it was 14 with 25-35 mph wind. I'm hoping to drag the 77 sears out of the shed this weekend. Maybe...
So I was eyeballing the tractor images. I am wondering once I have the hydro system out of the tractor if the hole for the hydro filter would work for the 2300 shifter and not have to scab in murray parts?
Really chomping at the bit to get started on this. That way I can REALLY start to plan. I need to get Grandpa out of the garage and Thor in. Sounds easy enough, but it is actually harder than it sounds. You see, Thor is currently not running and the Hydro release on it is busted and does not release. Running Grandpa is the easy part. I was thinking, I still have my somewhat towing bar for The Green Machine back when it was Patriot. I may put that on and use it to drag Thor around. Both tractors are at the back of each side of their portion of the shed. Moving the rear engine rider should not be hard, but that generator is a bit of a tug as it is a little heavy for my back still. That and I have junk piled up outside the doors to both sides.
Today is a decent day at 43 degrees, but tomorrow is going to be about 18-22 range for a high. Maybe Saturday, they say we will get back up to mid-60's, to drop again Sunday. I can work on the entry and my mower decks at the same time.
Take your time, think it through. Don’t hurt your back again.
I hear ya. I have another "dead" generator with a good engine I plan on taking my 9n with a boom and moving it to a table on my porch so I can pull the motor off, ditch the generator portion. (it grenaded.. longer story). I'll also keep the tank and frame. I don't know if I can get the Ford in the shed to snag the Sears or I would.
Other side, I have my mower trailer blocking the N wind from hitting the doggie door for the center building so it stays toasty inside for dogs when they are outside. I also had to short-term nail that door shut news years day as we had a 40mph N wind that broke the latch off. (that is fixed now, but I still have a cinder block in the way as well.
OK, time to start engineering and fabing. Or just figuring it out.
The sears is 10.5 inches inside rail to rail.
The 2300 is a bit wide...
The rear wider brackets are about 11 1/4 wide. Fronts are inside 10 inches. Back braces I can cut and reweld inverted.
Here is where it gets tricky! The brake arm and drive pulley are just a tickle over 12.5 inches.
So my thoughts... Make sure the brake lever (on the left side) hangs below the frame like it did on the Murray. Center line for the trans will be the shifter down the (john deere used mount hole on top). Basically, right of case split. That should give the pulley enough room to operate and be in line of clutching pulley. (HOPEFULLEY)
I am really looking forward to seeing this machine all finished up. It will be interesting to see a Sears with a 2300. Are you planning on adding any extra height to the rear end for a lift by putting in the new transaxle?
MightyRaze Administrator
2017 Build-Off Finalist
2017 Build-Off Finalist
2018 Build-Off Top 3 Winner
2018 Build-Off Top 3 Winner
2019 Build-Off Top 3 Winner
2019 Build-Off Top 3 Winner
2021 Winner of Winners
2021 Winner of Winners
1st Place Build-Off 2022
1st Place Build-Off Winner 2022
10,000 POSTS!
10,000 POSTS!
2024 Build-Off Entrant
2024 Build-Off Entrant
Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15444 Posts : 10860 Location : Oklahoma
Well, I hope this goes as smooth as it appears it may.
Looks like I can just cut and flip this bracket and be good?
And just a singular notch for the brakes.
I am also contemplating building my own bracket as well. I think that would work just as good too.
I think I am going to change my focus back on the mower deck so I can get it out of the way. At some point I will need to get this transaxle up on the cart so I can bust it apart, clean and lock it. I think I will go with about a 4" rear pulley.
I'm looking at another direction on this transaxle mounting. I'll keep you informed of that. I did remove the brackets, brake and input pulley. Crazy enough, the input pulley and the brake came off by hand. Not sure how I feel about that!
I really figured I would make a mess in the garage taking out the hydro. Nope, I did it with the 2300. I had taken the shifter out while test fitting the other day. Stupid me decided to tip the trans on it's side and . Yep, It belched out some gear oil! Some water, but not bad looking actually.
Those that are wondering. Brake is a 1" shaft, and the input is a 3/4" shaft on this unit. Axle is 1".
I have taken a step back while seeing where this thing will belt align best.
I'll have to move the trans to the left about an inch. That shouldn't be an issue. When I put new hubs on the axle, I can adjust accordingly.
Thinking maybe use some L brackets from the axle mount to about where the last hole is on the frame.
In that shot above the trans it is leaning back. That will not be the case. The shaft mounts will be level to the bottom of the frame. That should allow the input pulley shaft to be completely clear of the frame so no cutting will be needed on this side.
This side will require FAR less trimming for the brake than I had first imagined. That makes me happy. I don't think I will need to trim up to the dirt line.
I'm really diggin the exposed transaxle look. I may keep it exposed. Adds to the rat look. Did I mention this thing weighs a TON! At least twice as much as a 633a.
I know I was going to work on the deck, but my bearings got waylaid in shipping.