Planning, Plotting, And Scheming- Name TBA

Well if you run a steel box tube down the frame you could run the hydraulic lines through it and up into the ram. That way its hidden from any dangers of exploding lines or being cut

Why not build a mini truck frame from 2x4 steel? run truck tires front and rear, make your own front end. possibly solid front end and a huge rear end?

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Y'know... I HAVE been burning braincells trying to figure out what I can do with the auxiliary shaft! Sadly Jay (sorry) I doubt it will be running a supercharger. I might run an automotive alternator, But I'm leaning towards a hydraulic pump. To run what? Not sure yet, but I do have a useful ram...

hydraulic pumps for hydro winch? or crane lol and you can get a roots blower that will work with this engine no smogpump lol

The hydro winch could happen. I have a couple of hydraulic motors around here somewhere. I'd just have to create a drum... That's be pretty cool. And powerful!

Shaft drive!  

While the hydro options are cool, need to have a good base first. Just leave room for PTO options.

I'm anxious to see the driveline. Using the CVT with the peerless will give lots of options. You wouldn't need more than 3 gears, in a wide ratio, in the 700. It would be more of a range control than a shifting transmission.

Love the vanguaurds, have one in a mowing mower, very smooth and powerful. 18hp will be plenty to do whatever you want.

What kind of speed are you looking for?

Stretch44875 wrote:

While the hydro options are cool, need to have a good base first.  Just leave room for PTO options.

I'm anxious to see the driveline.  Using the CVT with the peerless will give lots of options.  You wouldn't need more than 3 gears, in a wide ratio, in the 700. It would be more of a range control than a shifting transmission.

Love the vanguaurds, have one in a mowing mower, very smooth and powerful.  18hp will be plenty to do whatever you want.

What kind of speed are you looking for?

You're absolutely correct on all counts. I won't (foreseeably) need to shift as I go, just grab a range suited to the task. The CVT's engagement ratio is about 2.5:1-ish. With the 700 in there, I can have some great hauling grunt, and good transport speed. Speaking of speed, unsure. I don't need to win any races, but it'd sure be nice to get where I'm going on the same day I left... LOL I am indeed thinking of pulling a couple gearsets out of the 700. Got a lot of calculations to perform, and I'm gonna have to jump thru some hoops to fit the driveline efficiently without excessive chain runs, etc.

Hydro stuff? Yeah, Later. MUCH later...

DO you think the CVT will disengage enough to shift the tranny?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

DO you think the CVT will disengage enough to shift the tranny?

Yes. I have put 3 years or so of abuse on my 40 with a large go kart/buggy thing and am well familiar with it. When you get off the throttle and the engine idles down, it slacks off and basically de-clutches. Not that it matters too much- as stretch pointed out, I really do not feel I will have much need to shift-on-the-fly. The unit engages with a redux ratio of around 2.5:1 and maxes out at 1:1. So- pretending I have the tractor in high gear (let's say 5:1) at a standstill, and start throttling up, overall ratio as I begin to move will be around 12.5:1... Plenty to get moving, and as it accelerates, it "shifts up" automatically.

you got this all worked out doc. i cant wait to see this thing being built. this will be the rig everyone wants to copy. haha

If I can pull it off (and I'm pretty confident) it WILL be pretty cool. This won't be an overnight build thought. Gonna take some serious figuring and when I go back to work (couple weeks) I won't have as much build time. It's okay, I'm used to projects taking awhile.

i think everyone knows serious projects like this take a while. calculations and such. and being that you may put a hydraulic pump means more drawings and thinking. and im sure we can wait because this will be one of those serious projects that if not built right and anything goes wrong would cause a disaster.... especially when hydraulic pumps are in mind.... ive only heard of failures with pumps or lines that get knocked around and blow up during use....

and im not wanting to hear of that happening any time soon.

Right you are, sir.

Got the engine and RAGB mounted, and CVT temped in. I have to go buy a 5/8" Lovejoy coupler body to attach to the 700 so I can get to the hard part. The 700 is to be mounted directly above the RAGB on bracketry that I have yet to dream up. That oughta be challenging.

The RAGB is mounted on a length of 7"x1"x1/4" C-channel I had. Burly as hell, won't move. I used a 1 1/2" holesaw thru the framerail to pass the input shaft through. The engine mount rails are made from some recycled stuff I had laying around.

This is where the tranny is going to sit. This will prove interesting.

That's quite a contraction you there Doc

thats gunna be sick doc. cant wait

What ratio is the ragb? Does it reverse direction?

Ratio is 1.2:1, and will run either way. It's a stout box. Cast iron case, sealed bearings, etc. I picked up the Lovejoy coupler, but simply ran outta steam for this evening.

Really thinking outside the box, I love it! how much power are those 700 good for?

Not really sure. Racers use them behind big nasty twins. I will be "race prepping" this unit. Oughta be okay.

Tower Of Power indeed. Today I fabbed up the bracketry to mount the 700 directly above the RAGB. It certainly wasn't easy trying to bring that bugger into alignment, but it's almost there. I have some very fine shimming to do to get it *perfect*, (out come the feeler gauges) but that can be dealt with later.

Along with alignment, I have a couple of things to do with the RAGB. It has sealed bearings with seals, but originally ran grease inside. I am going to drill and tap a fill/vent port in the top and load it with 90WT gear oil.

The bottom surface is open, and the crossmember I built to hold the whole shebang must serve as the bottom cover. I need to drill and tap a drain hole, and make up a gasket for it.

It's hard to see all that's going on because of the bracketry. The crossmember is a stout hunk of 7"x1"x1/4" C-channel I had on hand. The bracketry to hold the tranny up is a conglomeration of 1 1/2"x3/16" angle, some 1"x1/8" square tube, and a section of 1"x1/8" angle. I had to step one support leg further than the other to be able to get the RABG in and out for service.

Another issue I have to deal with is the input shaft on the RAGB. It's at least 1 1/2" too short for the CVT driven unit. I have to decide whether to attempt to lengthen it, or fabricate a whole new shaft. Since the shaft is 3/4", I can likely make one easily from some spare shaft material I have. Some pics-

glad I stopped by to see what you're up to... man, you've got some genius level s**t going on here!

Thank you. Well, I've said it before and I'll say it again. If I manage to pull it off, I will impress myself...

that'll be me, stressing the 30A charge circuit to it's max... stay tuned lol... anyway, I can see how it'd actually work Doc, I think you are on the right track for sure