Lowered racing mower.

The password you use to log in is all you need.

And as far as I know, I don't think anyone can see your password. I know I can't

I figured out that I stayed logged in on my phone, and could reset it that way! Any, I finally figured out how to get my photos from my phone....in it's driveable state, had to switch phones halfway through, but Im probably to make a public facebook page for all of you guys, (Or just call it a business!)

GREAT NEWS!! I finally got my build photos off my old phone, which, took me hours to figure out that I could use Bluetooth to pull the files over (Sim card in the old one, pushing them to the new one with an SD card)

Cool.

Just thought I'd pop in and lay a little experience on ya. NO off-the-shelf basic clutch will handle a ratio as high as 3-1. or 4:1. 5:1 is pushing it, too. Overgeared, it slips like a demon and builds a ton of heat. Heat kills clutches! In a full-on race scenario, you can gear fairly high because once you're on it, you stay on it. Even still, a race clutch is a better choice for such high gearing. If you're mucking around your neighbourhood, you've got to gear a lot deeper to allow for the slippage. Will you be actually racing this, or is it just for kicks and giggles?

I liked your facebook page. I'm glad I could see it. It's a much bigger project than I thought lol.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Just thought I'd pop in and lay a little experience on ya. NO off-the-shelf basic clutch will handle a ratio as high as 3-1. or 4:1. 5:1 is pushing it, too. Overgeared, it slips like a demon and builds a ton of heat. Heat kills clutches! In a full-on race scenario, you can gear fairly high because once you're on it, you stay on it. Even still, a race clutch is a better choice for such high gearing. If you're mucking around your neighbourhood, you've got to gear a lot deeper to allow for the slippage. Will you be actually racing this, or is it just for kicks and giggles?

I ate a clutch early on, decided to go with a Noram one with needle bearings. Planning on running it the 3 miles or so to and from school, very little amount of stopping involved.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

I liked your facebook page. I'm glad I could see it. It's a much bigger project than I thought lol.

I think its got a lot of people wondering, thanks for the feedback though!

Got her running PERFECCT! Started to go back and really dive into stuff last weekend in terms of long term repairs.
-Got rid of the brake able for my brakes, put a solid rod in for it, got tired of it barely working all the time. SO now this thing STOPS.
-Welded in some bracing to keep the engine from bending the sheet metal its on. Well, not bent, it bent it only in acceleration. Then it pulled back normal.
-finalized the position of the Idler. Took a few times, finding out it was to far over or something. Now its in the perfect spot.
-Repaired the hood. The whole front was destroyed in an accident when it was still on yard duty. But, sine its replacement, it only got worse.
- Finalized my idea for a paint scheme. A blue to match the engine, and the rest snow white. Blue is going on all the trim, and its having curved marks with snowflakes off the front end.
- Settled on a name, ABSOLUTE ZERO, referring to the fact that I have had Absolutely zero patience with anything or anyone since I started this thing.
- Have had a slight...Feminine help with this now, design wise...nothing major, mostly cosmetic.

Even with all my progress, there still a few things I need help on.
-My dashboard has the original holes in it from the blade engagement, throttle, Etc, how do I path these?
- How would I be able to set up gauges on a small engine like this? (OIl temp, oil pressure, kind of like cars)
- Should I sand or have it sandblasted professionally?

Fantastic! For the dash, you could patch it up with sheetmetal, welding, etc. But- You could instead make a paper or cardboard template to go over the dash. Transfer it to a sheet of aluminum or stainless steel sheet (or even mild steel), and screw or rivet it over the existing dash. A fast, easy cleanup.

I am experimenting with an oil temp gauge. I bought an automotive water temp gauge and plumbed the sender into the oil drain. It does work, but reads a bit low due to location. Best would be to drill and tap a spot directly in the sump for the sender.

Regarding oil pressure- I assume you have a pressurized oiling system? (How to tell- if you have an oil filter, it's pressure-lubed. No filter= splash-lubed). It probably goes without saying, but a splash-lubed engine HAS no oil pressure, therefore a gauge is useless.

Voltemeter and Ammeter are standard auto stuff, and totally straightforward.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Fantastic! For the dash, you could patch it up with sheetmetal, welding, etc. But- You could instead make a paper or cardboard template to go over the dash. Transfer it to a sheet of aluminum or stainless steel sheet (or even mild steel), and screw or rivet it over the existing dash. A fast, easy cleanup.

I am experimenting with an oil temp gauge. I bought an automotive water temp gauge and plumbed the sender into the oil drain. It does work, but reads a bit low due to location. Best would be to drill and tap a spot directly in the sump for the sender.

Regarding oil pressure- I assume you have a pressurized oiling system? (How to tell- if you have an oil filter, it's pressure-lubed. No filter= splash-lubed). It probably goes without saying, but a splash-lubed engine HAS no oil pressure, therefore a gauge is useless.

Voltemeter and Ammeter are standard auto stuff, and totally straightforward.

Sweet, So oil pressure is useless for me. The electrical things are the same deal...sine mine isn't electric start. The idea of adding another layer of sheet-metal over what there seems like it wouldn't be to appeasing. I wonder if I could just bondo the all the holes?

You've got no electrical system? Wow... FWIW- the water temp gauge I selected is mechanical. It needs no electricity (works like a thermocouple)- so even without power, you can use it.

You can't just Bondo big holes- you'll have to back them with something like metal first. Heck, you could probably back them with fibreglass drywall tape, but you need something there.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

You've got no electrical system? Wow... FWIW- the water temp gauge I selected is mechanical. It needs no electricity (works like a thermocouple)- so even without power, you can use it.

You can't just Bondo big holes- you'll have to back them with something like metal first. Heck, you could probably back them with fibreglass drywall tape, but you need something there.

I learned that with the hard way! I think I could use wire mesh.

Got it up on a new stand today, gonna get this thing running steady, looking around for somebody who does large sandblasting parts..

Decided to hold out on the sandblasting, tomorrow Zero will be taken off the stand and run through the differing terrains of my backyard. And maybe a small amount of road. What type of paint should I use on this thing? Powder? Matte? Gloss?

Im gonna run this thing till the engine dies! the recoil starter broke apart on me, and none of the other engines have a starter that fits. I looked around online, and I ant find a single supplier for the starter! Apparently the company that actually sells them to Northern Tool has a website that only displays the engines, doesn't even sell them OR parts..