Lowered racing mower.

Current part BOUGHT (All from BMI)
Max torque stock clone clutch
1" steel live axle, 36"
WMS Split sprocket #35, 53 tooth.
Brake rotor with 1" hub (meaning I didnt have to but a hub, it was all welded together)
Tie rod (ACTUALLY not used.)
15" super turf tires on rim
Burris sprocket hub
Mechanical brake caliper
1/4" keystock (size for my keyways on everything.
1" bearings
1" bearing holders (these had 2 holes)
Thats it for stuff I ordered, came out to about, 279.93, (ALMOST ALL MY BUDGET)
Last, we have the part I had laying around
Engine, 208cc "Powerhorse" LCT from northern tool)
Brake and throttle cables
a few springs,
the old body panels (cut apart for weight, and I like the look of JUST the running boards)
Piping for the muffler)
Rectangle steel, (like box, but a rectangle)
Front tires.
(Also, my front end USED to have some crappy nylong bearing for it Well, not REALLY bearings, more of little nylon peices that happen to fit snuggly into the wheel hub, and decently on the spindle. Has anyone else replaced these?I put unground bearing in mine from a local bearing supplier. (unground bearing have a small "Lip" on one side to keep them from sliding all the way into the wheel's hub) )
All the parts from the original lawnmower (most were re-spaped and used in a different location)
A trailer axle (steering rod now)
Misc plates, and scapmetal.
Lastly, I WILL get pictures when ever I get healthy enough to go out and get them.

I would use #40 chain, #35 seems like its a bit small to move a mower but sounds good, good luck with the build!

Current Modifications (the big ones)
Complete overhaul with a horizontal motor,
Almost exact set-up of fearless fronts, Rear axle setup Only! has minor changes to the area of the axle bearings
High speed front bearing for inside the wheels
Complete steering overhaul, giving it a Bike handlebar wheel, and a direct steer set-up
Chain tensioner
Running boards
3 gallon(+) gass tank, positioned undder the hood)

things dropped-
Stock rear axle (all parts are in my 5 speed murray (these parts were a six speed however)
Engine.
All pulleys, clutch parts, (basicly anything for the belt)
Body parts, (big thing of sheetmetal that has the rear fenders), Cut for JUST for keeping the running boards.
seat brackets and springs and such. (Just has the seat bracket, and rear support)

A little about this proect:
This kart started out as a craftsman LT(1500?) and will end as something completely different. I had wanted to build it for a while, but without the funding, I had no way of aquiring parts. Greatly, My parents boughs a 220V plasma torch that we had NO-WHERE to plug up in my garage. So we ended up selling it, and I got the money from it.SO! This thingis going to be run DAILY to get me to and from school. (much better gas milage I beleive) And will endup more of a snow-mobile with tires and such. The windsheild is going to be added last as I havent QUITE figured out a way to attach/bend the plexiglass I wish to use. (and when I get some). I'm kinda eager to run this thing and get a speed. Lastly, As for modifing the engine, the only thing dones to it is a straight pipe exhaust, and that the ONLY thing done to it to increase performance. The engine is a 208cc Powerhorse engine from northern tool. Aparrently this is NOT a clone engine, as it doesnt match any of the Honda CCs. It DOES have however, match the CC of a briggs and stratton engine...I think..Here's the engine, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200514290_200514290
And all my parts, (listed above,) are from BMI karts, The website has prices cheaper than northern, but once the shipping was said, it was more expensive, (I live about 20 Mins from northern) And they asked for +10$ after if was suppose to be shipped.

We need PICS sounds like a sweet build cant wait to see it

How far do you live from your school? Just wondering.

But yea, need some pics. And you shoulda kept that plasma cutter, its not too too hard to wire up a 220v outlet.

I like 2 or 3 miles from my school, the bus takes forever, (I can literally, walk and beat it home.) ANd Riding my bike is getting old, Plus, I kinda want to see the look on faces of whom ever sees it. I'll have picture up tomorrow.

Harbor freight carries those motors also, i picked up a 6.5 horizontal shaft greyhound motor for $100 on sale. Northern is good for some things, Harbor frieght is good for basic parts like pins/bolts, ect.

Im led to beleive I rush things, I JUST got in from a test run of my racer. Here are the complaints so far.
-No low end power (Expected this, didnt really care)
-Clutch heated up, turned cherry red. (THIS IS MY BIGGEST CONCERN, PLEASE,HELP ME FIGURE OUT A SOLUTION)
-Steering wheel failure (re-solved, my handlebars cam up (Soon to weld a washer on to keep it down)
-Engine poorly mounted (3 vice-grips work well, but are a little shady for all around use)
Here are the factors that MAY have contributed to the above.
-snow
-my lack of patience
-hilly terrain
-dark outside.

Lastly, driving this thing tonight kinda reminded me of those scenes from fast and the furious tokyo drift, where he got the mustang and he's got it half together, and he's driving it

I see your scenario, im in the same situation. I live 2.5 miles from school and the bus takes 1 hour or more to drop me off. I can walk home in 45 minutes and have to deal with less BS.

Anyways, whats the deal with your clutch? Are you running a regular 2 pulley clutch or is it something else?

If its made for speed, dont expect low end. Its geared to go 5, not 15.

And you want to bolt your engine down. Vice grips are great for holding stuff down when its not moving, not so much when they are.

This mower isn't using a vertical engine but has been re fitted to handle a horizontal. It's using a centrifugal clutch and the drum is heating up bad enough to be noticed in daylight, then again, a 129 lb person on a 6.5 engine with a 1 to 3 ratio is a recipe for disaster

Youre probably overworking it. Youll probably want a double pulley clutch on there.

Hmm, thats what i plan on doing with my wizard - using the 6.5 horizontal shaft motor , chain drive to straight axle out back ( have to hack out some of the frame) , i weigh a lil bit more then you tho....

It sounds like the clutch is slipping too much, its supposed to lock the brake pads onto the drum, im sure theyll heat up after a while reguardless.

Is it a heavy duty clutch? Or a light weight clutch? That will also make the difference. It also has to be kept clean to work right.

All the parts are brand new, and this is the clutch, (Mine is 18t.) http://www.bmikarts.com/Max-Torque-Stock-Clone-Engine-Clutch-13T-22T_p_733.html

Sounds like a really nice build.. But it would be way cooler if we could see some pics!

Bandit1 wrote:

Sounds like a really nice build.. But it would be way cooler if we could see some pics!

This is MAINLY about the racing, but gets to the murray.

Oh yea, its chain. Hmm. Cant help you there lol.

I drove it anyhow, I took Fearless's advice on the lowering, I just completely removed the brackets, and grounded out the seams, I got a 1 or 2 in drop.

Please tell me you actually fastened the engine down correctly.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Please tell me you actually fastened the engine down correctly.

This whole thing reminds me of Stretch and I testing out the Olds 350 rocket engine I got while it was hanging from the engine hoist. It was wild seeing that thing swing into the chains when you revved it a bit... I wouldn't recommend this diagnostic method btw.

TheRainbowBoxer wrote:

Doug Fackler wrote:

Please tell me you actually fastened the engine down correctly.

This whole thing reminds me of Stretch and I testing out the Olds 350 rocket engine I got while it was hanging from the engine hoist. It was wild seeing that thing swing into the chains when you revved it a bit... I wouldn't recommend this diagnostic method btw.

Thats why my |6 is still on the stand and not being fixed. I dont trust that $40 little stand to hold up to some revving lol.

I haven't driven it since the clutch heated up, I've run the engine however, to make sure it was all aligned

New challge, how can I align my sprockets and mount my engine?

Name changed, and a paint sceme in my head! Absolute Zero, Snow white with blue trimming, (red one the hood marks this, and also on the sides of the running boards) with a strip and snowflake on the hood. LASTLY Absolute zero spelled out on the back, and both sides of the hood.

Do you have a long narrow piece of straight metal? Or 4' long contractor's level. That can help line up the pulleys.