Thank for the interest will promptly begin designing the spec sheet and walk around feature. In the mean time a little coverage of the led light install. Testing the LED's before install Light OFF
Light ON
The Kohler Magnum motors have a solid state voltage regulator which means the original mechanical one can go. Which just so happens to be where the light mount bracket needs to be mounted. Win Win.
Gtx106 New Member
Age : 60 Join date : 2018-03-26 Points : 2436 Posts : 5 Location : East Peoria Illinois
@Gtx106 Yes biggest gear set they had @ 47% over driven.
Did some timing tuning on Keizer today. Started at 27° total advance did a 0-60' time and turned 3.5-3.7 seconds. Kept cranking the timing at 2° increments and stopped at 32° total advance. Motor is pretty stiff now with each power stroke along with a noticeable hefty note out the pipe, maybe stop before it blows up for now. 0-60' time between 3.2-3.5 seconds. UMMM...that's close to 2 more hp and very noticeable. Maybe at the wheels 29hp by definition.
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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Finished up the lighting wiring and found that everything shakes a lot. Tried a few ideas with no help this last one aced it. Ran a sheet metal plate with ribs and pushed a 5/8 radiator hose around it to use as a rubber dampener. Once everything was set used heavy duty zip strips to secure hose to brace. Its been a few months and still doing its job well.
Three weeks ago began playing with timing to see how high the little modified motor could go before spark knock above 2500rpm. Test drove with timing at 36° total advance to gas station to fill er up about 1/2 mile away. Motor ran pretty ok a little tight but ok. On the way home motor was still tight so maybe a bit high on the timing so set the timing back to 2° to 34° and then went out for a some serious testing. Along the way did a few clutch dumps to show off at the stop lights and another one for the landscapers. I get laughed at a lot doing this even scolded at by the older folks. Noticed the motor was getting a little down on power and was 50 yards away from no mans land before the motor seized up. Um #@@$%....wtf... Ok this happened before.. so relax studabaker let it cool down and restart. Nope had to spin motor over by hand to free up. That motor was hot even after a 5 min. wait. Cranked the key start on and the motor rumbled back to life. Ok cool, turn this around and head home, wait a second what is that loud noise. Second thought drive it across the street and park it. Sat and thought about it for a bit. You know this motor is pretty nice maybe a walk home and get the truck is a better idea. Turns out that was a very good idea. The rod melted to the crank and piston hit the head a few times. Lesson learned well several. Switched to dino oil 30 wt a week before to see if oil consumption goes away as suggested in the kohler service manual. Be wary of over timing as motor takes more energy to compress which creates heat and pressure which takes away from the power stroke equals power loss. So advance till power loss and back off. Oh and put the 5w30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability back in as its rated very high on film strength. The oil consumption vs loss of motor... yep. Long story short as this is pretty long. Put bearing inserts in the rod or not. After a few days of thinking on this choose no insert and modified the dipper to allow more oil into the oiler hole for lubrication of the crank pin.
The cap on the left is the old one. Notice to much knife edge this needs to be more like the one on the right. The flat edge produces a oil tsunami that allows the oil to flow up and into the oiler hole and is very important.
Ran the rod cap on the left for a few years with Quaker State Ultimate Durability with the famous Kohler knock present with no issues other than trying to figure out what is the Famous Kohler Knock. Many myths. Camshaft side play, Governor side play, Crankshaft side play, Piston slap nope. Its a rod knock. Reused the same piston a little more broken in mind you on the rebuild. Only thing changed was the rod and crank which together have like new tolerances. Kohler knock is gone and boy does this motor rip. Also did some cam timing adjustment via use of dyno 2000 to find out which setting produces the best overall power. Turns out retarding the cam a tooth or two did the trick huh!
There is a little advance retard cam feature that allows you to play. What was done was to install cam degree in. Input spec's into the dyno. Use the advance or retard the camshaft button. This took a bit as double check was in full feature. Motor may or may not be making this hp level but am pretty sure its close.
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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Huh, pretty interesting about dropping the cam timing a bit!
Good to hear that you were able to fix 'er up after the little meltdown there, haha. Was there any damage to the rod journal on the crank when the rod siezed?
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
@AllisKidD21 The crank rod journal was a bit undersized to start with and now it has a nice coat of aluminum around it. Rod on the other hand needs to be bored out to accept bearing inserts in the same hand grind the crank pin to 1.490. Think I can do this in house with out a crank grinder.
Picked up a K361 a while back and the crank and rod where in very good shape. Did a little shave on the rod cap to fit crank pin and installed them in the K341. Rod is forged alcoa aluminum and should be pretty tough. Time will tell as this motor will be trounced a lot.
Regards, Mister Studabaker
Mister_Studabaker Member
Age : 56 Join date : 2019-03-15 Points : 2219 Posts : 118 Location : Grand Rapids, Mi.
Doing a few practice runs for the TTC this coming August. Keizer needs a few more mods. Like a lighter Flywheel (25 lbs is way to much for trail riding). Front end axle is having its way with the pivot pin. Looking to run a bushing to capture axle pin tight yet rotate freely. Last but not least a very big bump stick to match the larger valve previously installed. The attached video shows just how heavy the flywheel is as the tractor keeps on motoring when gas is let up before the corners.
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Age : 25 Join date : 2016-07-10 Points : 8587 Posts : 5190 Location : Ontario Canada
Hey guys, The loctiting the nut to the axle pin failed. Time to rethink. Going to switch over to a pinched pin. The pin is slightly longer than the axle to allow full torque to nut. Went for a test drive after install and found that Keizer has improved his steering by a lot. Very crisp and responsive. Say good bye to the turn and wait for the wheels to catch up.
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Age : 35 Join date : 2017-10-30 Points : 5333 Posts : 2561 Location : Rochester, New York
Have been installing a race cam this week and was able to fire it up yesterday. Well, interesting findings after the miserable run with the race cam. Initial start up and break in went good was not impressed with the rev meter, no change in acceleration uhh wth! Thought maybe it was the 25lb flywheel, ok. Proceeded to do a shake down run. After a bit the motor became real hot with minimal gains everywhere, another uhh wth...Damn near took out the rod too. Slept on it and awoke early this morning with "hey remember when the last rod blew when the thought of to much timing created heat and melted the rod". With the race cam the same thing happened, motor became real hot. Here's the kicker: the timing is in a safer zone this time around so cancel that idea out. So the thought of maybe just maybe the muffler is not allowing all the gasses to leave the motor making it become very hot. Ok! whats the next step "take the muffler off". Well cant do this at 2am in the city so wait till seven and get after it. It was like Christmas eve trying to get to sleep after that WOW!!! Took the muffler off and fired Keizer up, and hit the gas, holy sh*t is that loud. Lots of carbon flew out the pipe and off to the races the motor went. Now that's what I'm looking for "ANGRY ENGINE" Went for a very short ride and came away with huge giggle not to mention woke the whole neighborhood too. Motor flat out rips and to find out after putting it back in the garage the main jet was then turned out one and a half turns richer to remove the loud explosions during deceleration, still ringing the ears, and then that made the motor even more angry. What, is there a 25lb flywheel attached. Time to visit dads to borrow his welder and find the performance Miata muffler stashed over there. Lots of smiles..
Regards, Mr Studabaker
ps stayed tuned going to lighten up the cast flywheel from 25lbs to 15lbs or less should be very interesting
Hillbilly Offroading Established Member
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Age : 22 Join date : 2018-11-09 Points : 2853 Posts : 582 Location : Reeses Mill, WV
Jeremiah been looking for power for some time. This is the most noticeable gain yet.
Today whilst looking at pops for the muffler found another stock Miata header wanting to be turned into primary exhaust for Keizers tuned exhaust. The headers are dang near the perfect dia. for just such an occasion. Looking for more than 38" to achieve a 4500 rpm hit. Have Keizer up on one jack in the front side to simulate full articulation and wheel is cranked to show where the header can be run. After cutting up the Miata header and doing some layouts looks like 38" can be had. By the way chopped one up all ready and installed during the bigger muffler install which is now bunk the muffler that is. Going to use a very shinny glass pack that has been sitting around a few years. So it looks like the I.D. of the primary is going to be 1.25 slightly larger than needed but with all the turns may just work out. The collector albeit a short one will be 4" long with the I.D. of 2.25 which is part of the glass pack. Tomorrow will have pictures of the layout and quite possibly a full functioning tuned exhaust.
Regards, Mr Studabaker
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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Test drove less the wrap found less than desirable results as compared to no muffler and super loud. Pulled the muffler off same result. Hmm must be all the bends taking the heat out thus slowing the hot exhaust flow. Seeings how the exhaust is stainless might as well wrap it up and see. Much better results. Motor has a distinct power-band now. Cranked the timing up 3° everywhere equaled more gains from bottom to top end.
Regards, Mister_Studabaker
Mister_Studabaker Member
Age : 56 Join date : 2019-03-15 Points : 2219 Posts : 118 Location : Grand Rapids, Mi.
Motor temp is becoming a concern. Its looking like time to convert to E85 for a cooler running motor. Extra bonus to this conversion is about a 1-2 hp gain to boot. Wonder if the gains will be whole spectrum? Bet they will be. OMG.
Main Jet and float inlet size stock is .073". Times 1.35 (35%) is .09855" or a number 40 drill bit. No looking back now.
Motor now rocks the chassis after jacking the timing up 5° everywhere. Idle timing is 27°. Top end is 32°. Motor is running cooler even at these timing marks. Gap is set at .060"
Regards, Mister Studabaker
Mister_Studabaker Member
Age : 56 Join date : 2019-03-15 Points : 2219 Posts : 118 Location : Grand Rapids, Mi.
Completed a thorough low end tune with the throttle fixed at 2000 rpm's using the pc to monitor the rpm drop driving up the same hill over and over adjusting the timing each time. At the start the motor was only able to go 1/4 the way up. Now it can do half-way. Timing below 2k ended up 33° huh. Next step is adjusting the mid range. Gonna need a steeper hill.
Subject: 
April 26th 2019, 7:06 pm
