Keizer the Little Cub Cadet 122 is growing up

Hey folks, there is a Cub Cadet build going on over in Grand Rapids Mi.  Lots of modifications that have been designed and implemented on this little tractor.  Pretty much every aspect has been covered and added lots of extra's to make this a very tough, well at least in my perspective, tractor.  It has been entered into the Top Tractor Challenge this Aug 17-18. Pretty sure there will be a few more mods before that date as well.  If you have a good eye you may even find a few highly sought after speed secrets or two or three...

Tire testing via 3800 rpm clutch drops.
ATV TSL's

Vampire II's


Programmable computer install.  Not sure how much hp is made by this but you can bet to be sure this will be found out soon.  




36-1 timing wheel with Crank sensor and edis 6 sparker (sends signal to Computer) and has its own limp home mode as well.




All wired in and ready to rock n roll.


Best Regards,
Mister_Studabaker

Humble beginning previously known as ole smoky the skeeter killer.

Keizer early this spring state.  Took winch off to see how the look was with a hitch in front.

Welcome to the forum! I've seen a few video of this ol' Cub in action and I am a BIG fan!! I love the look it has and also the fact that you kept an old school engine in it.

That ignition timing setup is too cool, is that a Kohler Magnum or K Series? The shroud looks a big boxier like a Magnum but it's a bit hard to tell. Liking that side exit exhaust too!

Can't wait to see some more pictures!

Keizer stripped down to see all what has to be done to install his new heartbeat. 16hp Big Block Flathead.

Lots of cutting and welding to fit this very large and heavy motor in.  Lots of pulling and putting in place so removed flywheel and other things so as not to pull, well you know...  

@AllisKidD21 Thank you, trying to be old school all the way baby, well kinda, old school meets tech, That is a K series 16hp block but not so on the HP's though has much more. Its all about the wheel speed my new friend. Thank you for the interest.

Haha, yep I bet she's a pretty angry unit now! The old K Series engines have great low end torque as it is, I'd love to know what kinda grunt yours has now.

Do you run it with the governor intact? Stock engine internals and carb?

Welcome and as you know I love this build and I'm so glad I got to see it in person at CreepyCrawler's.

It's nice to see someone else running a Kohler in an ATLT for a change.

@AllisKidD21 Angry motors that get after it are a blast.  Keizer is not there yet but here is a list of some of the things done.  Crank and rod are stock they have been custom fit to each other i.e. crank journal has been custom honed with a 200 grit stone by hand  (took a few days to make this round). No faith in crank grinders around here.  Rod has been custom fit to crank journal with oiling holes chamfered.  Cam has been replaced with an 18hp cam.  Carb from 18hp installed.  Keizer is currently under the wrench for a valve job (Way larger valves like as big as will insanely fit which may make for an angry motor). Before this valve job about 24hp after its anybody's guess.  Oh, governor has been enhanced too, have pictures of this and a video

Stay tuned.  Regards, Mister_Studabaker

@Crazy_Carl Thank you, it was an honor to introduce Keizer to you. One has to run a K series motor. They are strong, flatheaded and sound way cool when working hard not to mention easy to make hp's. Looking forward to running with you and the boys again hopefully before aug 17-18

Installed a gas pedal to governor and kept fixed throttle.  My favorite part test driving to see what breaks.  Uh oh, Can you say valve float at 4200rpm.  Hey whats that new noise.  That does'nt sound good exhaust valve crashed into spark plug.  Hmm! need stronger springs, well, while in here fixing the springs might as well install bigger valves too.  Stay tuned.  Regards, Mister_Studabaker

Oh look old small 1.375 valves both sides.  Hmm, wonder why this is low on the juice.  Hey look what I found in the old projects box.  Crane Valve springs from a 2.8 60° v6 build done back in the 90's 5k rpm here we come.  Ahhh! Larger valves now I can breath a lot easier now.  Yep pun intended.  Cheap I know.  Valve spec's: 1.5 exhaust and 1.88 intake. Please note the exhaust valve will no longer hit the spark plug it has a dish hahaha

Side view comparison. 1.88 on far left, in the dust on the right the stock puny 1.375 valve. Keizer may be one angry beast after this. 30hp or bust babies. Rather not bust... but what the hey, right.

My word!!! That intake valve is massive!!

Will ya getta look at this.  Oem head on left the pretty red one.  This thing has been ported and polished for stock valves.  No heart in tearing all that work down for bigger valve besides its showing signs of to much pressure.  The copper gasket used shows questionable sealing strength on the head part.  Pulling over 180psi cranking pressure plus whatever the cam and bigger valves may produce has signed me off completely.  New head with update combustion chamber and thicker sealing plate example oem: 1/2"  New tech: 1-3/32"  Should be no problem holding all the pressure.  First time every being impressed with non oem stuff.  What is really cool is that projection plugs can now be run in the new head.  The oem head hides the plug inside its hole. UN-shrouding the plug may have a huge plus in firing off all that pressure.  Can you say "Platinum".  Never the less lots of testing will be had to find best scenario regardless of plug type.

Can you see the scribe lines upper right on each head.  That is the gasket lines matched to the head meaning all the metal has to come out to fit the 1.88 intake.  The black lines signify the cylinder via gasket cut out which is very close to the cylinder wall itself... long pause... Its beginning to set in..."DAMN the motor is going to be angry".    

AllisKidD21 wrote:

My word!!! That intake valve is massive!!

"I know right"

Wow, nice engine mods. Didn't know there was enough metal in the valve area to be able to put a bigger valve in these kind of motors. Are you going to stud the head down?

@prancstaman Thanks, nice to meet you it takes a good eye to see a good eye. You know not so sure either whether or not enough material is there but these motors have inserts in both valve pockets. This means that extra material was cast in to support the inserts which allows for bigger valves after you take out the insert. After looking at the 16 and reading up on a few cub pulling sites it gets shaky around 1.92 all though some go 2.00. The valve was placed as high as possible to hopefully keep the cracks from happening between the cylinder and valve. Great care was taken to place the valve as high as possible along with the six angle valve job and 30° valve seat which may help keep it all together. The 45° seat at 1.88" pushes into the questionable range fast. Regards, Mister_Studabaker

P.S. Stay tuned there is a lot more coming.

Size comparisons between OEM and Vogel ReCast.  Serious clamping power.  Due to lack surface area on the ReCast studs will be left out.  Gonna need all the air flow possible to keep this thing cool.  Motor is going to run hot but as in previous combustion chamber view it could stand to run a little hotter.  Regards, Mister_Studabaker

Yeah that head should be a nice upgrade for sure! The bosses for the stud holes definitely look like they have some more meat than the factory ones did.

@AllisKidD21 Oh yeah, OEM has a sketchy 1/2 sealing ridge which tapers down vs Vogle Re-Cast at 1.09" everywhere. Much better faith in sealing with what is about to happen to the motor. Regards, Mister_Studabaker

Head is roughed in and valves put in approximate space.  Next step put on motor and check clearances to fix and then clean up and polish.

Almost have a green light. Few more red specs to clear out. Unsure how this is going to flow, so for now going to leave it rough. Run it hard, tear down, inspect and relieve where needed.

I am so glad I stumbled apon this thread. From what little footage I have seen of this tractor I am super impressed. It's great to see a Cub hittin the trails with the rest of them. This build reminded me that you don't need a Wheelhorse or a Sears to make a great trail rig so that inspired me to start work on my Bolens 1050 again.

Some questions I have are you running the stock clutch? And is it tough enough to take all that power and abuse? Did you increase the gearing? I have seen blueprints for a custom driveshaft and clutch design for Cubs designed for pullers and I have wondered if that is necessary for offroading. Sorry about all the questions. I am not that knowledgeable about Cub Cadets. Thanks.