Hey I just read through pretty much the whole thread. I was thinking about the connecting rod issue. If your really getting a lot more power out of it, do you think pressure lubing it would be a help? It might not be that huge of a thing to drill oil passages in the crank. You don't really even have to feed both mains, just the one side where you pressurize the crank. An easy way might be to use a small chain driven pump externally.
Or, ARC billet rods use a hollow tube in the dipper to force feed oil in as it dips into the oil. Not sure how easy it would be to do something like that without making a whole new rod.
I was just thinking that maybe it's being pounded so hard with the mods that the oil film can't take it. Pressure oiling may solve that.
That would actually be pretty neat to experiment with! I don't think the mains would need any pressure lubricating though, as these Kohlers have a massive ball bearing on either side of the crank as the main bearings. I belive the oil level gets high enough to let them run in oil constantly.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
The mains would be ok, but you gotta get oil into the crank somewhere. If there's ball bearings on both sides then I'm not sure exactly how you would be able to get an oil passage to the crank. In theory you could make some sort of collar or something on the front part of the crank that sticks out of the engine (where the ignition timing ring is) and have a passage into the crank there. But I would imagine that would be a nightmare to keep from leaking.
Another not quite as good option might be to just have an oil sprayer that sprays oil onto the crank. That wouldn't be nearly as good as pumping the oil into the rod bearing but it might give a bit more oil than the splash system.
Don't know. You would think the rod would actually be alright even with the modifications. I thought mostly high rpm was what caused oiling issues. 5000rpm max should be ok with a splash system, I think lots of guys do that with karts and stuff. What kind of clearance are you running? On opposed briggs engines they say to have about .003 for good oiling. Maybe running too tight?
Guys, thank you for all the ideas. @prancstaman@mr.modified Thought about making a rod out of 7075al. The design, FEA and prototype time would lengthy and not up for that task just yet
@AllisKidD21 FYI the main bearings are above the oil line close to an inch and half and rely on the splash for lube.
@mr.modified Been thinking about pressure lube for the Flathead and how to do this too. Thought about drilling a hole down the center of the dipper about half way down and cross drill to expose it for pressure oiling. Not sure yet what that size would be as the dipper may become a bit weak. Going to play around with this on the first rod that has been seized. Its dipper looks to be robust enough.
Talked with the fellas at ARC just about the rod oiling. They have up to three oiling holes on there rods. Two to allow the oil to escape and one to feed the bearing. He also has a oil video out that talks about all the oils he tested and what he came away with is a special oil just for splash lube motors running up to 10k rpms. Hence Keizer is now running this oil.
Lessons learned from the latest motor tear down.
Oil level: Read somewhere that the pulling guys run there oil level just below the rod bolts.
With that knowledge did some measuring from the dipstick full mark to the bottom of the rod bolts. A full one inch (what?). Have noticed that whenever the rod bearings would fail is when the oil level was at the full mark or slightly below the full mark (a quart and a half). What has been saving the motor most of the time was the oil fill was always kept above the full mark and allowed to run down a little ways past full and subsequently added more.
Made that change and moved the fill level up to two quarts, just below the rod bolts, and marked the dipstick. The level is allowed to run down a little but not down to the full mark. Ran this level during the TTC with timing set at 31°. Going to run the timing up the next week after the AUG 31 trip. Going into the belly of the Monster Mowers to run Keizer against the stretched mud boggers via grass and mud drag.
Rod to Crank oil clearances are around .0035" to .004".
The bearing inserts (forced), mods to there oil hole and oil level may prove to be the winning ticket. To many changes to know which one works. My money is on the oil level change to 2 quarts from 1.5.
Regards, Mister Studabaker
mr.modified Veteran Member
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@mr.modified Overall third place if you can call it that, against the dedicated mud and grass dragsters. Lots of folks where in it for one event either the grass drag or the mud run. Only 4 did all three runs, Grass drag, mud run and tire pull. Limited footage as my camera ladies where on strike.
The grass drags pitted me against one of the fastest grass drag tractors in the area. One more gear higher and maybe just maybe Keizer would have had him.
During the mud run found the cub cadet transmission flaw. Popped right out at the most perfect time leaving the mud pit to move to next level. Put me in fourth. Next time into the tranny this will be addressed.
Tire pulling round Keizer out pulled them all. Two excavator tires stacked on top of each other on a dirt covered gravel bed pulled them 8 feet. Next closest competitor 4 feet. Third moved them 6 inches and the last one was a mud dragster with a zero inches moved.
All in all if Keizer had one more gear taller a whole different outcome would've been had. The design and engineering is almost set for one gear higher. Next time will be a very different story.
Regards, Mister Studabaker
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Quite a few machines turned up to that event. Sounds like things didn't go too bad.
Do you think the transmission jumping out of gear is something due to wear and can be fixed inside? Or just more of a design thing? I know the old dirt race cars used to have a thing to hook the shifter in high gear. That might be ok for something like the mud run if you didn't have to shift, but something like the TTC would be a pain since you sometimes need to change gears. Unless you made some sort of spring loaded hook setup that the shifter kinda snaps into, just to give it some extra holding power.
Yeah the pullers using built up Cubs all have shifter lockouts to prevent them from popping out of gear under heavy load, but as mr.mod mentioned it might be an inconvenience if you need to change gears. Could be beneficial for some situations though.
Nice runs by the way! I saw the videos on YouTube.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Thanks guys for all the ideas. The inner workings of the tranny may be the culprit as the gears are 53 years old. The easy fix would be to work up a little easy shift lock. The idea hit a few days ago. Think of a key and a cheap side lock for a door.
Keizer ran with the dragsters this past weekend in a fast trail system and hung with them all afternoon.
Regards, Mister Studabaker
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Hung out with @creepycrawler this past weekend and a few other drivers as well. Like the top four TTC contenders and few others for an all out assault on his trails. Good times where had by all and everyone was super helpful. Donnie should me how to do a proper fix to Keizers bent tie bar during lunch break. Was able to take a few videos in as well.
Best Regards, Mister Studabaker
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Nice video. Looks like the dog enjoyed walking around too. Guess the engine has been holding up good now and no more rod issues or anything? Sounds good.