| [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] | |
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+15MightyRaze muckmudd George Gooding Double W Cross Ranch RockeyDA RichieRichOverdrive tinkering bob SteamNut247 TheBeal mr.modified biggasmowers CraftsmanQuad19 MatthewD swampduck03 AllisKidD21 19 posters |
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SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
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MightyRaze Administrator
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SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 15th 2018, 9:23 pm | |
| Okay, so I tried to start it tonight on live stream and failed miserably. The compression release won't come back. So, come tomorrow, I'm going to remove the valve cover and hopefully something is just stuck, that would be an easy fix.
Oh, and on a side note, diesel smells like vinegar. LOL | |
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MightyRaze Administrator
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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MightyRaze Administrator
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MatthewD Veteran Member
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 16th 2018, 12:55 pm | |
| - MightyRaze wrote:
- Engine had a rough life..
Poor thing. I wanna tell the people that did this to her that they didn't deserve such a nice engine. - MatthewD wrote:
- Well at least it was only $50. Maybe the engine suddenly stopped and bent the push rods. Bend them straight and put them back in and see what happens.
Yep. Are you sure that's such a good idea? Pulled the crank cover off, and I can't see anything else messed up. New pushrods will run me $25 a piece shipped. Well, considering that everything else on the engine is pristine, I'm sure it will run after that. It's still cheaper than the $180+shipping and tools that I don't have that rebuilding the Kohler would cost me. And while the crank cover is off, should I remove the gov, and or remove the crankshaft and have it turned down and a keyway put in it? | |
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MatthewD Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 16th 2018, 2:14 pm | |
| First question no, second question yes. I would leave the governor and throttle assembly alone on these engines, diesels sound better at lower rpms anyway. Now would be a good time to take out the crankshaft and get it machined. Or buy that tapered shaft adaptor, whichever is cheaper. That engine looks pretty clean in there, doesn't look like anything internally caused the bent push rods, or that anything else was damaged. | |
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SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
Age : 23 Join date : 2018-02-27 Points : 3843 Posts : 1299
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MightyRaze Administrator
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Age : 49 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 15658 Posts : 10977 Location : Oklahoma
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Crazy_Carl Veteran Member
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RockeyDA Established Member
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biggasmowers Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 10:33 am | |
| If you ungoverned a diesel then if something malfunctioned you could have a runaway diesel on your hands. And really the power band on a diesel is at 3600 rpms and is where they are designed to have the most power. Anything higher than that anday I would think it would onlyou be a detriment . | |
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 11:00 am | |
| - MatthewD wrote:
- First question no, second question yes. I would leave the governor and throttle assembly alone on these engines, diesels sound better at lower rpms anyway. Now would be a good time to take out the crankshaft and get it machined. Or buy that tapered shaft adaptor, whichever is cheaper. That engine looks pretty clean in there, doesn't look like anything internally caused the bent push rods, or that anything else was damaged.
Yeah, I have no clue what caused the rods to bend. And it is peeerrrty in there, lol. - SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- Looks good Inside the ENgine.
the Pushrods suck really hard. Try to bend them straight, and if they bent again buy new ones.
I would let the governor in the engine
do whatever is cheaper, welding and machining the crankshaft, or buying that adaptor thing Yeah, I think I'll just buy new ones because I don't want to risk messing things up inside this beautiful diesel. It'll only make the rods weaker and with all the power a diesel has, I don't really think it'll hold up. - MightyRaze wrote:
- I'm with everyone else. Leave the govenor.
Price what it would be to turn it down before pulling it out.. An adapter may be cheaper? Okay, yeah I was only asking because I had everything apart and all I had to do was pull it out. I think it will be. I think I should just go with an adapter, cuz then I'll have a 1" shaft instead of a 7/8s, which would be next to impossible to find a pulley for. - Crazy_Carl wrote:
- Definitely leave the govenor, buy new push rods, and that slick adapter you found.
Okee dokee. - RockeyDA wrote:
- why wold you want to leave the governor? i know it makes driving alittle easier, but you loose that awesome past a friend power.
Well, if I decide that I want more power, I can remove it. Meantime, I don't want to screw it up. Believe me, this'll be the only engine I have that is governed, LOL. - biggasmowers wrote:
- If you ungoverned a diesel then if something malfunctioned you could have a runaway diesel on your hands. And really the power band on a diesel is at 3600 rpms and is where they are designed to have the most power. Anything higher than that anday I would think it would onlyou be a detriment .
Yeah, that makes sense. Although I can just hit the compression release to kill it. | |
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AllisKidD21 Moderator
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 11:13 am | |
| I actually can't see removing the governor helping with the power much, esecially in your application. This engine will be designed to have more low end power than anything, so I can see RPMs past 3600 actually not helping at all. You're gonna want low end power for grunt work anyway, haha. "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill - MTD Off-Road Build - Ford LT 110 Off-Road Build - Craftsman GT 6000 Off-Road Build - Sears LT11 Rat Rod Build *2019 Build-Off Winner!* Garden Tractor Collection: Allis B-110 x2, 710, 716, & 410 - Wheel Horse 655, 953 & 500 Special - Case 444 - Bolens Versamatic, G10 & 1668 Diesel Swapped - Cub 106, 124 & 1000/149 Frankentractor - Ford 120, LGT 125 & 145 - White 1650 Yard Boss - Moto Mower 710-100 | |
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 11:35 am | |
| - AllisKidD21 wrote:
- I actually can't see removing the governor helping with the power much, esecially in your application. This engine will be designed to have more low end power than anything, so I can see RPMs past 3600 actually not helping at all. You're gonna want low end power for grunt work anyway, haha.
Yeah, I think I'll keep it. HAHAHA, suspension aficionado. LOL | |
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SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
Age : 23 Join date : 2018-02-27 Points : 3843 Posts : 1299
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RockeyDA Established Member
Age : 30 Join date : 2017-10-15 Points : 3257 Posts : 639 Location : Bellefonte PA
| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 12:48 pm | |
| - SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- why you run all your engines ungoverned @Double W Cross Ranch ? I love the governor. It does the work for you. if it bogs down, the governor opens the butterfly automatically, and I reallly like that feature. Also you can threat the gas padal as hard as you want, and nothing will break, if your Engine is maintaint.
i know your not asking me, but i dont like using governors, especially for poping wheelies, maximum control is critical. plus who dose not love to push in the cluch and rev with a backfire while passing poeple. | |
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The author of this message was banned from the forum - See the message |
SebastianAlbrecht Veteran Member
Age : 23 Join date : 2018-02-27 Points : 3843 Posts : 1299
| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 12:52 pm | |
| - RockeyDA wrote:
- SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- why you run all your engines ungoverned @Double W Cross Ranch ? I love the governor. It does the work for you. if it bogs down, the governor opens the butterfly automatically, and I reallly like that feature. Also you can threat the gas padal as hard as you want, and nothing will break, if your Engine is maintaint.
i know your not asking me, but i dont like using governors, especially for poping wheelies, maximum control is critical. plus who dose not love to push in the cluch and rev with a backfire while passing poeple. I never do wheelies, cuz they hurt my trans, and I do'nt need to rev my Engine just to make noise by passing some people. Only stress to the engine. I love my 11HP Flathead in 1/3 throttle under a bit of load with my Glasspack so much, I only use full throttle to be fast and to mow | |
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
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Age : 20 Join date : 2017-06-09 Points : 5489 Posts : 2640 Location : Literally Nowhere, Texas
| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 1:14 pm | |
| - SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- why you run all your engines ungoverned @Double W Cross Ranch ? I love the governor. It does the work for you. if it bogs down, the governor opens the butterfly automatically, and I reallly like that feature. Also you can threat the gas padal as hard as you want, and nothing will break, if your Engine is maintaint.
Mostly because I want to have high end speed, but not a high ratio. If you have an engine that spins at 3600 rpm, with a 1-1 pulley ratio, you will always have a 1-1 ratio, and your tranny will always be spinning pretty fast. If you have a engine that spins a 5,000 rpm, you can put a 5" rear and a 3" front and achieve the same thing at the highest RPM, but not always stressing your tranny by running a 1-1 ratio. And that's an example, I probably got the ratios wrong but you get the point. Okay, back on topic. Got everything on the engine bolted back together! For exhaust, here's what I'm going with. This style adapter: Then from the 3/4 inch pipe, it's going to come out a bit and then switches to 1" pipe in a stack and end with this rain cap. No mufflers whatsoever. Gonna be loud. Bent this heat shield back, it was all mangled before. The rubber grommet keeping it from vibrating (Japanese people are so smart, they think of everything) was all dry rotted so I replaced it with a spare. Lemme know what you think of the exhaust set up. I think it she's gonna sound so good, but if I ride it for a while I'll need some hearing protection, lol, being a Yammer Hammer. | |
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RockeyDA Established Member
Age : 30 Join date : 2017-10-15 Points : 3257 Posts : 639 Location : Bellefonte PA
| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 1:55 pm | |
| - SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- RockeyDA wrote:
- SebastianAlbrecht wrote:
- why you run all your engines ungoverned @Double W Cross Ranch ? I love the governor. It does the work for you. if it bogs down, the governor opens the butterfly automatically, and I reallly like that feature. Also you can threat the gas padal as hard as you want, and nothing will break, if your Engine is maintaint.
i know your not asking me, but i dont like using governors, especially for poping wheelies, maximum control is critical. plus who dose not love to push in the cluch and rev with a backfire while passing poeple.
I never do wheelies, cuz they hurt my trans, and I do'nt need to rev my Engine just to make noise by passing some people. Only stress to the engine. I love my 11HP Flathead in 1/3 throttle under a bit of load with my Glasspack so much, I only use full throttle to be fast and to mow im always going fast, if im not flipping over from to big of a wheely im rolling from turning to fast. 9" pully in front 7" in back | |
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AllisKidD21 Moderator
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| Subject: Re: [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] July 17th 2018, 4:36 pm | |
| Hmmm, where'd you here the term "Yammer Hammer" from exactly? Hahaha. "This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill - MTD Off-Road Build - Ford LT 110 Off-Road Build - Craftsman GT 6000 Off-Road Build - Sears LT11 Rat Rod Build *2019 Build-Off Winner!* Garden Tractor Collection: Allis B-110 x2, 710, 716, & 410 - Wheel Horse 655, 953 & 500 Special - Case 444 - Bolens Versamatic, G10 & 1668 Diesel Swapped - Cub 106, 124 & 1000/149 Frankentractor - Ford 120, LGT 125 & 145 - White 1650 Yard Boss - Moto Mower 710-100 | |
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Double W Cross Ranch Veteran Member
2018 Build-Off Finalist
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Age : 20 Join date : 2017-06-09 Points : 5489 Posts : 2640 Location : Literally Nowhere, Texas
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| [Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry] | |
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