[Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry]

Okay so right now I'm in Oklahoma so I can't work on it.  But I thought I would outline the plan.
Figure out what I'm going to do about the engine shaft
Mount the engine
Unseize the vari drive
Replace the tires, which is a big expense
Throttle, fuel tank, etc.
And run it without a locker for a while. I probably will still lock it, but I'd like to see what it does first.

Sounds like a good plan, although you forgot one thing. Test fire that diesel!

MatthewD wrote:

Sounds like a good plan, although you forgot one thing. Test fire that diesel!

Haha, well I need to do that too. Although I need to buy some oil so I DON'T seize it, lol.

Okay so got a ton of work done today.  First, though, I'm gonna show you this weird ball hitch thing someone welded on.







Kinda neat, I just wish that whoever did it knew how to line it up, lol.  Whoever welded it did it great, so, it's gonna take a lot of work to cut it off.



Got the stupid clutch pedal off, thank goodness.



Then got the fenders off, which took a ton of work, too.



So could someone tell me how the heck this clutch works?  There is no linkage and just a spring pulling it down.



5/8ths belt.



Found a tag on it, but there was nothing on it.  The ^^^ is the only text I could find.



Here are the fenders off.  I need to paint them and decide what to do with the pads on the footboards.

Tips welcome on everything!

I think the clutching is all done by the variable speed pulleys, that's why the clutch pedal can only be pushed in all the way while the engine is running. That idler at the back is most likely only to take up the slack on the rear belt when you travel through the speeds.

I would buy some rubber matting for the floorboards, to get again some grip, or you can buy the same style like you have now.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Noppenmatte-Gummimatte-Riefenmatte-Antirutschmatte-Bodenbelag-Gummi-Matte-3/252671694706?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=551604393306&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.de/itm/PVC-Antirutschband-Klebeband-Streifen-Griptape-Selbstkleben-rutschfest-schwarz/322518527821?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=511496067839&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Replace it with grit paper like was on it or maybe some rubber diamond plate or maybe cut up a mudflap for a semi truck, some of them have little knobbies on the backside for slowing road debris (gravel) being slung by the tires

I love these things... also the yellow strip is highly reflective.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SKID-GUARD-2-yd-Anti-Slip-Tape/3185621

AllisKidD21 wrote:

I think the clutching is all done by the variable speed pulleys, that's why the clutch pedal can only be pushed in all the way while the engine is running. That idler at the back is most likely only to take up the slack on the rear belt when you travel through the speeds.

Okay, yeah I was wondering if it had anything to to with that.  There is such a maze of things under the dash that it's hard to trace anything, ya know?

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

I would buy some rubber matting for the floorboards, to get again some grip, or you can buy the same style like you have now.

That's a good idea! Thanks!

George Gooding wrote:

Replace it with grit paper like was on it or maybe some rubber diamond plate or maybe cut up a mudflap for a semi truck, some of them have little knobbies on the backside for slowing road debris (gravel) being slung by the tires

Thanks!

MightyRaze wrote:

I love these things... also the yellow strip is highly reflective.

Thanks!

Okay, so got some more work done today.



Reattached the hood.  Had to unseize one of the supports to it, and it's only half unseized, but better.



Hood still sits woppy-jod, but slightly better.



Left side.



Right side.

Got the engine fitted.  I kinda guessed this would be the case, the airbox hits the hood: the classic diesel swap problem.  So I'm planning on redoing the airbox instead of chopping the hood, because I don't want to do a hack job, lol.  And maybe because the stock airbox is super restricted and according to a lot of people on diesel forums a good way to get a diesel to roll coal is by giving it more air....



So we'll see where that leads us.  I might be able to find another filter manifold that just bolts right up.  Oh, and a sidenote, these Japanese engines are awesome, they print the size of the head right on the tip of the bolt!  No guessing and fumbling.

Anywho, so the next thing I plan to do is sand it down and paint it.  After I get all this debris out from on top of the tranny.



Like always, tips are very welcome!

Looks very Good!

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Looks very Good!

Thanks!

Neat. Does this transaxle have the limited slip differential? If so it should have a big tag on top that says "LSD".

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Neat. Does this transaxle have the limited slip differential? If so it should have a big tag on top that says "LSD".

I didn't see such a tag.  And if it does have it, it doesn't work because I was spinning the pulley while holding on to the axle shaft and only one axle moved.  I'm guessing it does not.

Well it would only kick in once it had enough resistance. But if there's no tag I suppose it probably doesn't have it, which isn't really a big deal. I was kinda hoping that the one I'm working on had an LSD trans but I'm pretty sure it doesn't, haha.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Well it would only kick in once it had enough resistance. But if there's no tag I suppose it probably doesn't have it, which isn't really a big deal. I was kinda hoping that the one I'm working on had an LSD trans but I'm pretty sure it doesn't, haha.

Yeah, it's probably just as easy to do a live axle, 820 style.

lookin good!

swampduck03 wrote:

lookin good!

Thanks!

bump

Does that diesel have a tapered shaft?

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

AllisKidD21 wrote:

biggasmowers wrote:

Try to find an old generator to use the tapered shaft end , or you could weld it up to over 1 inch then get it running and make a mount to hold a grinder up to it and machine it down the hard way

I don't think I would do that. Not very accurate and the welding would probably weaken or potentially warp the crank. Just have a machine shop put a keyway slot in with a mill or something.

Yeah all it needs is a keyway, it doesn't really matter that the first 1/2" is tapered because the pulley is going to be practically as far up the shaft as possible.

@RichieRichOverdrive Yes...and, Mr. Spam, we have been through it all before.

We did? I don't remember.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

We did? I don't remember.

Yup, we have. I remember.

Well what size is the non tapered part?

3/4s. And the it's like 3.5 inches long, and only the first half inch is tapered.

Yeesh, good luck grinding a 3/16" keyway into that. You're gonna go too deep and ruin it, more than likely.

Yeah I'd have a machine shop do it or get a dremel tool or something, it'd really suck to mess it up.