SPARK PLUGS!

I wanna start a thread about spark plugs just where yall can drop some info and tips on them
like whats worked for you and stuff. i know you cant get to technical with em but lets give it a try
im trying to get a NGK plug for my 12.5 briggs with i think is BR2LM\B2LM??
Should i gap them too or leave it as it is. manual states 0.30 as the gap?

ngk are good plugs all around but on my rig im using E3 spark plugs im a fan off the ngk platinum 2/3and4's for cars and trucks and i like the fact that the E3's have there diamondfire ends

mist spark plugs come pre gaped but its all was good to check them to see if there gaped right

Cheapest one you can find, always check the gap, clean it with gas and a wire brush every spring and it will be the last one you buy.

yeah i thats what i do wire brush and some solvent here and ive heard of sandblasting but idk?

i clean mine with a really fine sand paper just to get all the soot off of them and a good bath in gas douse not hurt them

I buy Champion, usually only $3 a piece. No point in buying overpriced plugs really. Out of the box they should be gapped, just check them once a year. To clean mine I just run it on the bench wire wheel.

I'm a fan of protruded nose spark plugs in my bikes, but I don't think they would matter that much in a tractor engine.

I agree with buying the cheap ones; Champion RC12YC I think?

Wire brushing them is ok if there's crud buildup. I suggest getting a tiny file and a gapping tool. Making sure the exposed center electrode is flat, not rounded at the edges, will keep it operating like new. Same goes for the underside of the ground electrode. Over time the edges get rounded-off from the spark and it takes more energy to make that spark.

ive always ran champion in small engines, and NGK in powersports equipment. ive also used Autolite in my old Polaris and it NEVER fouled out, when the NGK would on a daily basis. as far as E-3 goes, snake oil. and that comes from a small engine mechanic too. once he had a guy bring in a mower for a tune up, he also brought an E3 plug. my friend turned the job away because he refused the E3

I run Champions and the like. Our engines aren't exactly high-performance machines. E3's and similar plugs, are- in my opinion, bullspit. First- electricity takes the path of least resistance. Always. The spark's not gonna slit up or do weird crap just because of a side electrode that looks like the trophy end of a 12-point buck. Secondly, As the spark tried to develop into a ball of fire, you DON'T want a bunch of crap getting in the way of that lovely flame kernel developing. What ev's...

I ALWAYS check the gap right out of the package. Usually correct, not always. I but packages of nail files from the dollar store, and use them to dress the electrodes quickly and easily. Whenever you use an abrasive to clean a plug, be sure to blow the crap out of it with compressed air after. You do NOT want grit like that in your engine!

ive been thinking of getting a pneumatic plug cleaner from Harbor freight. basically a mini snadblaster from what i understand. yall have any experience with them? worth it?

All the tech manuals and accepted schools of thought say "no" due to the chance of abrasive getting lodged up the insulator then coming loose in your engine.

willis923 wrote:

ive been thinking of getting a pneumatic plug cleaner from Harbor freight. basically a mini snadblaster from what i understand. yall have any experience with them? worth it?

i go to harbor freight all the time and had no idea that even existed awesome lol

I kinda have to dissagree with Doc with the E3 spark plugs, I was running the Cheap NGK plugs in the twin, ran like crap, then I bought the E3 plugs and it ran smoother and less fuel consumption. I would have to say run the right plugs and you will have a better running motor.

Ariens YT11 wrote:

I kinda have to dissagree with Doc with the E3 spark plugs, I was running the Cheap NGK plugs in the twin, ran like crap, then I bought the E3 plugs and it ran smoother and less fuel consumption. I would have to say run the right plugs and you will have a better running motor.

Run the right plug, like you said. Here's an example: I have an ATV that calls for a spark plug with a heat range of 8, and I was running NGK BR8ES, but they would foul after a couple hours. This 4-stroke ATV needs rings and smokes like a 2-stroke. I ended up switching to a hotter plug (6 heat range) and it kept the spark plug hot enough to keep it from fouling, even with all the oil it was (and still is!) burning.

Your E3 purchase may have been the proper heat range, or the NGK was the wrong heat range, or both.

I only use champion Spark plugs Haven't tried anything else. Doesn't mud king use E3?

I run just about any brand as long as the heat range and gap is correct. I do have a preference though, so if I can, I run:
-NGK in my Japanese motorcycles.
-Champion in my Tecumseh and B&S, unless it's OHV, then I'll run NGK

I guess if it's 2-stroke or OHV then it's NGK. Flatty anything gets a Champion.

I use E3 plugs and they seem to use less gas.

ok so i hate e3s now my two died had them less then a year and maybe 12 times used last year

I use whatever is handy, that fits. As long as you get a spark of the correct length, at the right time, The fuel mix don't care where or what it came from. The "SUPER spark" is really only needed when the fuel air mix is VERY dense (High compression, like 10 to one and up) or boosted/supercharged chambers. At the standard 7 or 8 to 1 compression that most mower engines run at, it's overkill.

Your mileage may vary, My opinion is based on 30 years of hot rodding experience

on my built opposed twin i ran E3's because i run a higher octaine fuel and was having issues with NGKS but i run NGKS in my v-twin because its the best plug i could find for it if they made e3's for it i wouldnt buy them ive had to replace 3 E3's and they are not cheap

If I was replacing plugs in say a V10 Lamborghini, I would buy expensive stuff. But for my beater truck? Naw.

Same applies to mowers, except cheap Champions will work fine in any small engine. No point in buying an $8 spark plug, it wont make that much of a difference in anything. Want to save gas? Tune your carb right, gap your valves right, and make sure there are no valve seal or piston ring leaks.

I'll use Champions, NKG's but it's much important that you get a plug that's correct for your engine, then what the name of the plug is. - kinda like what Lawren said.   

Thunderdivine wrote:

I'll use Champions, NKG's but it's much important that you get a plug that's correct for your engine, then what the name of the plug is. - kinda like what Lawren said.   

to be honest, i usually end up buying the cheapest plug i see,
ive thought of getting some of those plugs with the 3 seperate ends on em to try, but they are to high

+3 for Lawren's answer.

I will say that I've always experienced easier starting and longer life with plugs that protrude farther into the combustion chamber. Just check for clearance first.   

in my opinion E-3s are like split fires ( anyone remember them ) a waste of money. And yes I wasted money on them too . I run NGKs in everything but my lawn equipment for that stuff I run the cheapest plug availlible just not off brand.