E3 spark plugs for vanguard

Are the e3 spark plugs a good replacement for the champion spark plugs on my vtwin?

Only one way to find out is to try it

nah man, sure theyre OK plugs, but honestly (coming from a small engine mechanic) they are complete snake oil. they dont help anything. if it was me i'd stick some NGK's or champions in it. never had any trouble with either of those

willis923 wrote:

nah man, sure theyre OK plugs, but honestly (coming from a small engine mechanic) they are complete snake oil. they dont help anything. if it was me i'd stick some NGK's or champions in it. never had any trouble with either of those

I'll second that. Even if they are "better" than a normal plug, any advantage is kinda wasted on a low-performance, archaic engine. Gapped properly and in good condition, a good "normal" plug provides more than enough spark.

i run e3 in my v twin vanguard and they work great for me, only reason i bought them though is because i worked at a parts store and got them discounted

plus, with the E3 at a price of about 6 bucks here in NY, and the champion RC12YC (oem for most lawn and garden) at a whoping $2.02, im going with the champ

Thanks guys I just didn't know if they made a hotter fuller spark for better performance or not. Especially when I romp on the throttle I get a second of hesitation before it revs up lol

i think a little hesitation is about normal on these things.. lol. just make sure the carb is about right. one of my friends works at a john deere dealer and he refuses to use E3. he is the one that i quoted earlier. once he had a customer bring him the e3 with the machine to be serviced, and he wouldnt use it.

Lol yea I'd like to find a 2 bbl carb for it but I'm not sure where to find one at. I figured that it would help with the hesitation problem as well and give me more power.

It's not a 1-barrel or 2-barrel thing. It's the carb DESIGN. There are two circuits. Idle and high-speed. A GOOD carb like a Mikuni features FIVE individual, tuneable circuits. You want real throttle response? Upgrade from the caveman-carb.

I have a mikuni carb I know that I just don't know how to properly tune it

There's about a zillion Mikuni tuning guides on the 'net. Googling it will be very productive.

Ok thanks.

I once bought an e3 plug mainly for the warranty. I did notice a little bit of a performance increase but a few days later I went to start my tractor after parking it and it didn't want to start, it didn't even fart. Nothing was touched bumped or moved. I checked the plug and it had 0 spark. It wasn't even arcing between the electrode and the inside of the threads (through the ceramic) this happened with the next plug as well! I just like to stick to a CJ8 or RCJ8. The hotter the better In my eyes.

I know about how it can melt things because of the low melting point of aluminum and its just not meant to take the heat but I've taken apart engines I've ran hard for pure exploratory exploration, not because it broke and found nothing damaged. if anything because Its getting a more fuller burn there was almost no carbon buildup anywhere and I think we all know how quick carbon builds up in these engines that have been running a little too rich!

Also I prefer a 0.35 gap instead of the OE 0.30. I have repeatedly seen a noticeable increase in over all performance with a more responsive engine and its hard to stall it. I can achieve an extremely low idle with out missing a beat proving that the spark always ignites the fuel even with these fossil carbs. Its my little secret tweak ill share lol  




While in the early stages I was already able to get good performance with almost no tuning and a COLD engine! I will get more slow idle videos of my other tractors eventually.

[quote="the54"
Also I prefer a 0.30 gap instead of the OE 0.25.[/quote]

What engine(s) are we talking about? Because plug gap spec IS 0.030" on pretty much every single OPE engine!

the54 wrote:

Also I prefer a 0.30 gap instead of the OE 0.25.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

What engine(s) are we talking about? Because plug gap spec IS 0.030" on pretty much every single OPE engine!

My bad I meant to say 0.35 not 0.30 ill correct it