Well Guys, I finally got to building an exhaust that's worthy of being bolted onto the 12+hp flatty I built.
I was originally running the stock canister muff, but felt that my tractor needed something better, louder, cooler, you know something like... A GLASS PACK!
Here's the pile I started with... Note the Bicycle forks which is what I ended up using...
I fitted the original canister to the exhaust port when I built the motor, so I could use the spigot at a later date. This is the form that fit the exhaust port best, so I'm keeping it!
We know that the port exit is too big. There have been discussions about filling the threads with epoxy and other innovative fixes. I figured I'd just use what's there since it's extended inside a good ways.
Tracing out the form. Using the original gasket.
Cutting the spigot off of the can.
Marking the spigot for proper alignment. Front is front. (actually that's the rear. I have it marked wrong!) glad I cought it in time!
Cutting.
Punched and certerdrilled.
Nice sharp drill! If you're not getting pigtails from your drill, you're wasting time!
Step drilling the port hole. (see the mistake I made)? I hit the vise with te tip of the drill OUCH!
Hogging with a burr.
Fitting and aligning the spigot.
Tacked.
Test fit and then seam welded.
Time to prep some header pipes!
Cleaned up nice. Not bad for junkyard headers huh! Notice the handlebars from the Ariens Snowblower.. Double walled OH NO! Can't use them, so I'm going to be short one curve. Hmmm
First section tacked on. Looks like a drag racer lol.
Second section tacked. Looks good so-far.
Checking for clearance. I should put on some steering stops!
Time to fit the Glass Pack. Tough angle without that extra cruve from the handlebars...
Fitting the joint.
Checking.
Notching.
Tin knocking.
Here's what the inside of a Glass Pack looks like. The center tubeis perforated so the high frequency sound waves go into the fiberglass and ger absorbed. All that's left to come out the other end is low frequency. That's why I think glass packs sound so good!
First try at hanging the 'pack.
So, here's what it looks like now. Sounds great. I'll get a vid of it hopefully later today.
Doc Sprocket Site VIP
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Looks good! VERY good... Is there a brace or bracket for that muffler, that I cannot see? Looks sort of familiar too... Here's an old pic of mine right after I did the exhaust (on original engine- which, by TOTAL coincidence, was a Briggs 12hp flatty). Note that my Cherry Bomb is homemade, and does NOT contain glass. And YES, I had to add steering stops due to the pipe and the larger tires I installed (after this pic was taken) Also- be sure that the dog doesn't walk off with your tractor. LOL
Thanks guys. It's hanging a little low and still raw steel. Got some painting and exhaust hanging to finish up the project. My feet and hands were numb by the time I got this far last night.
Doc Sprocket Site VIP
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Age : 51 Join date : 2013-04-21 Points : 7315 Posts : 2914 Location : Ontario Canada
I originally built the muffler for a Honda GX340 (11hp) Honda OHV powered go kart. I'll look around. I DID shoot a quick clip of the sound. Must have it somewhere.
Well, your vid came out better than mine! I don't hink the microphones on any camcorder is good enough to get the full effect.
I used my phone so even worse. The high frequency noise is all the drivetrain in neutral with a grumbly bearing in the idler.... Eh whatever, you can sort of hear it!
for anyone looking to make a glass pack, the expanded metal mesh with the bumpy surface works well for the internal perforated tube. Put the bumps facing the exhaust port so the flow goes into the glass)
Thunderdivine Veteran Member
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Yes it does. That's a glass pack sound. I had a BUELL motorcycle. V-twin Harley Sportster engine built to 110hp. I ran 2 into 1 into a Vance and Hines Glass Pack. Sounded amazing. I'll look for a similar vid so you can get the idea, but I bet you could get a V-twin or oppy to sound similar.
Well I posted a vid... Buells rev pretty high compared to a B&S but it's a pushrod motor so that's their limiting factor. Good for about 6000rpm. Same parts inside this guy's motor as I had haha.