Removing Governer Slinger

I had question if i remove the governer completly inside and out what is gona splash the oil around inside. Ive just Always wondered that ? i Guess its a simple question lol

never thought about that........ good question.

i hope some one who has done it can comment and let me know lol

Don't eliminate the slinger, just the weights and metal cap.

Pull the pins and eliminate the weights, then pop the little metal cap off.  The plastic wheel should remain on the shaft.



I also sawed off the little lever "paddle" on the end of the Gov shaft, but left the shaft in the block in case I wanted to use it as a pivot point on the outside of the block.

yeah thats what i thought it makes wayyy moree sense to just eliminate the metal parts just wanted to verify with the forum

I cut the governor shaft, remove it, install a screw with my loctite/gasket maker solution, Then rev her out

sounds awesome mines almost done just waiting for the seals to come in snail mail lol

Has anyone blown an engine because of high revs without the governor? I've only seen them blow because of bad/low.

Bad/low oil.

T-Dub13 wrote:

Don't eliminate the slinger, just the weights and metal cap.

Pull the pins and eliminate the weights, then pop the little metal cap off.  The plastic wheel should remain on the shaft.

Precisely.

Well..... That's a tough question to answer. You may get a different answer from every member of the forum.   

The general consensus is that these motors will experience valve float (which will limit RPMs) before they get spinning fast enough to blow up.

That being said, they have cast aluminum rods and dogbones so there is some variablilty in manufacturing and who knows, you may be the owner of the weakest rod to come off of the assembly line. It's out there, so someone has it, or it already broke.

I snapped a dogbone on a 100% stock grass cutting mower last summer. No reason it should have broke at 3600RPMs, but it did.

So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO.

T-Dub13 wrote:

So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO.

Where did you buy the upgraded rod and dogbone?

B440 wrote:

T-Dub13 wrote:

So when I built my 28 series 12+hp motor, I upgraded the Rod and Dogbone just because It makes me feel a little better about running it WFO.

Where did you buy the upgraded rod and dogbone?

You can buy them at ARCracing, eccarburetor, and other small businesses.
http://www.arcracing.com/servlet/StoreFront
https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/

I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down.

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down.

I wanna see this.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down.

I wanna see this.

What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock.

Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes. When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next.

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Doc Sprocket wrote:

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down.

I wanna see this.

What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock.

Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes.  When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next.

Pics or it never happened  

Thunderdivine wrote:

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Doc Sprocket wrote:

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

I have a 12hp flathead that will turn 7600rpm and am still running the stock internals. I always try to keep it around 5500 or below tho unless it starts to bog down, then I hammer down.

I wanna see this.

What I meant by internals are the dogbone and rod. Valves train, cam, and head aren't stock.

Mods done, Custom cam by my schools machine shop, Smoothed brows, port & polish, Head and block smoothed down to smooth finish (inside for more flow), stainless valves and billet lifters, springs i robbed from a pressure washer pump (very strong), Governor removed completely, E3.10 plug, some carb mods, 5w30 Mobile 1 syn.. Got the cam timed so far up it doesn't idle below 1600 or it dies and that's barley alive. Flywheel timing is tweaked with a filed down key, a newer dog bone i had out of a 1995 12hp, and that's pretty much it. The 7600 is under no load with no air filter and straight pipes.  When loaded down driving the highest i could get it was 6700. Next time I put her on the stand, I tie my tach up to her and take a video or picture. Gonna get her fired up sometime this week, maybe next.

Pics or it never happened  

ugh.. not this bs lol

This is the only pic i have....
Heres the engine tho..

Just wait until i get a pic of my tach when its turning 7000+

  

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Just wait until i get a pic of my tach when its turning 7000+

How about some video too? It would be inspiring to see and hear a "28" do that!