Mastercraft Off road project

If I had a Atv that I could use for parts I would deffinatly build a mower like this.

[quote="Chopperhed"]



Love this pic! I'd hav eto figure out som way of making that work. lol

Tractors looking sweet man!! hope i get the oppertunity to build one of these ifs beasts one day

*2 thumbs up!*

Ouch, Ouch, And More Ouch

Went down to PRincess Auto this morning, needed things like bearings universal joints centri clutch etc.

$300 later, I have enough stuff to keep me going a while. Still need some 1" keyed shaft, some 3/4" cold rolled round bar, and the jackshaft sprockets and chain, but coming together nicely
Started on the Steering last night. Its now fully suspended front and rear.

Will post some pics later today

A couple pics


Look mom no jackstands. It has a full suspension. Actually there is a jack under the left front end that makes everything look crooked. I have it jacked up to check clearance for the tie rods.



Mocking up the steering wheel and shaft



Thats a new 110.00 Hilliard Extreme Duty clutch.

After some thought and "on the fly" design, I've discovered that I bought 1 too many u-joints, and 1 too many bearings. I'm OK with that I can take them back and get some 1" keyed shaft and a sprocket instead.

A Sheetmetal mockup, at empty ride height.

Looks awesome, is that steering wheel going to go through the hood or just behind it?

It will be very close to the back edge of the hood. Depending on the final angle of the steering column, I may have to notch the hood a bit.

More progress. Sorry pics are out of order

It has steering,

Finally found some high tensile 4140 alloy shafting form the steering column and jackshaft. Picked up some off cuts from metal supermarket. Was a hell of a lot cheaper than from Princess auto. The steering column was drilled for bolts, and assembled as is. The U-joint is a good beefy unit, bigger than on a lot of small cars.

.The jackshaft will have to be slotted. I'll take it to work and mill keyways in it next week. Apparently it will be a couple weeks before PA gets any more sprocket hubs, so final driveline work will be a little behind.


Getting started on the steering


A steel checkerplate crotch protector. The rocker cover sits about 1/2" behind that plate. With out the plate, the piston points directly at my nutz. I left it as a bolted unit so I can get to the plug, rocker cover, and valves, without unbolting the engine.



Mocking up the dash. Its polished aluminum checkerplate. The steering column bearing is evident. I had to notch the hood an inch or so, and the dash panel had to be notched as well


Started on the flip up rear section

Looks nice, why did you do the steel checkerplate and aluminum checkerplate? and not all aluminum or all steel? thats all you had around?

I wanted the steel for the critch protection. I like the aluminum for the looks. Plus it did fit with what I had handy.

ooh ok, thats pretty much what I thought, still looks cool.

This is sweet. its come along way i really like the square tubing your using. what welder are you using? how fast are you planning on going? this thing will probly handle high speeds with no prob.

I'm using a $90 dollar Princess auto stick welder. Its one of my favorite toys. Its sucks 20 amps AC at 120V and burns 5/64 Lincoln rods at up to 80 amps AC. I;m working on a DC cinversion, but it takes money better spent elsewhere.
With practise, it can do up to 3/16 pretty good, following accepted preheat procedures. I basically torch (preheat) the snot out of the heavy stuff with a map gas plumbing torch. My A arm brackets are 1/4" plate, and they are gorrilla solid. It might not be all that pretty , but its monster truck solid.

I've got lots of options for gearing. I want to go to a 18-20 inch rear tire, and a 15 front, maybe I'm looking for about a 45 mph top speed, in the rough stuff. The jackshaft setup leys me do what ever I want for ratios.


I tried to maintain the stock Warrior geometry as best I could, so it should be pretty stable up to 65 or so. Its not really going to be a mudder much with only 2 wheel drive, and no reverse. Although i could put a winch on the back.

I got the jackshaft set up in the mill today, will be milling the keyway later this week. The mill needs some service at the moment so I need to get one of the guys to go over it, I'm sure I have a guy that needs something to do tomorrow

Took some time this morning and got the coolant pump and power feed fixed on the milling machine.

Started on milling the jack shaft keyway



Hopefully have that finished off today, then I'll need to make a slotted mounting pad for the jackshaft bearings

That hood and grill are the same as my body from the MTD Huskee, soon to be the Speed Mower...
you are going all out on this thing...I wish I had a milling machine!

I just have access to the mill at work. It comes in handy though.

Near as I can tell, My mastercraft is all 100% MTD, and it looks exactly like a lot of others.

Been hunting another tractor for my next project. I've decided I need a dozer for my yard work. These light tractors can't cut it for what I'm doing, so I need something the same size ( to fit through the gates) with a lot more weight and traction. I figure I can build something with full hydraulics for under $1000

your next project seems pretty cool, you should post it on the forum!

Chopperhed wrote:

I just have access to the mill at work. It comes in handy though.

Near as I can tell, My mastercraft is all 100% MTD, and it looks exactly like a lot of others.

Been hunting another tractor for my next project. I've decided I need a dozer for my yard work. These light tractors can't cut it for what I'm doing, so I need something the same size ( to fit through the gates) with a lot more weight and traction. I figure I can build something with full hydraulics for under $1000

What about one of these?

I really want on of these.


Or if you need something smaller may I suggest:


or even smaller:

mlwinters wrote:

Chopperhed wrote:

I just have access to the mill at work. It comes in handy though.

Near as I can tell, My mastercraft is all 100% MTD, and it looks exactly like a lot of others.

Been hunting another tractor for my next project. I've decided I need a dozer for my yard work. These light tractors can't cut it for what I'm doing, so I need something the same size ( to fit through the gates) with a lot more weight and traction. I figure I can build something with full hydraulics for under $1000

What about one of these?

I really want on of these.

Somthing like that except based a heavily reinforced GT frame

Well turns out the locals won't let me race because of my suspension, Oh Well. They say I can run exhibition races, but can't race for real.

I'll have to find some guys willing to go off road.

New Progress Pics.

Milled the slots for my jackshaft mount and got it tacked in place.



Did some work on the sheetmetal, had to do some cutting to clear the chain drive.





Mocked up the front end with the side panels and right side running board. Looks like i have to shorten it a bit, the front tires hit the running board.



Jake AKA Jakaroo, or Jakey. Security Chief, he's a Husky Collie cross, one of the best dogs I've ever rescued.

Yeah its an MTD for sure - i have a couple with the same sheetmetal - one's a '95 yardman 4WS , the other is a '03 bolens .

Its comming along pretty cool - running in official sanctioned lawntractor races, requires certian rules and regs per class - only one that has any sort of 'suspension' is the stock class ( i looked into it a few years back).

Around here, they use a very basic set of rules, and only have the 2 classes right now. Unfortunately neither class allows for suspension and ATV tires.

Uploaded all build pics to my mediafire cloud storage space,

check them out here.

http://www.mediafire.com/?2q9avnr44i48o

New pics, and new news.

I've been yakkin with our local snactioning body, LMFAO, (Lawn Mower Fanatics Alberta Org).

Turns out, if I want to race, I can take the shocks out and put in solid struts of whatever length I want. then All I need is turf tires.



Also got some work done on the running boards. Cut three inches out of each one, added some 1/2" square tube to the undersides, and welded the ends back on.

]



Made some new cheeks too (you'll see what I mean) Nice polished aluminum checkerplate.Along with the beginnings of my chain guard.


I'll need to cut holes to clear the carb and exhaust, but I'm getting there.

Nice work so far - depending how fast the tractor would go would detirmine the height of the tractor when racing around ( be a bit top heavy) - id go for a lower setting for best handling.

Id look into getting another set of hubs/rims/tires for racing - be the easiest way to make it a dual purpose tractor .

When i get around to working on my mod tractor im running a set of 8" golf kart rims with turf tires for light off road and a set of 10" golf kart rims with street tires .

With the struts I can lower this thing to 2" of clearance.

I'm already in the search for ways to fit smaller rims on the front. the rears are already 9" beadlock style.

Smaller rims on the front means no front brakes, but oh well

Most racers run around 4" of clearance - even thats pretty low. If you could locate a go kart setup( hubs/wheels/brakes ) you could still keep brakes up front - you might want them when racing with others.

Its just the ease of swapping setups out when either racing or running around - i suppose its why i chose to stick with golf kart 4 bolt rims/hubs- its universal and a simple wheel swap.

I think youre limited on tire size with atv stuff on how low of profile you can go - i noticed that when i got some ATV wheels, theyre a 9" rim up front - my rear wooley booger 8" ATV wheels actually have a golf kart rim on them.