Engines problem

The carburetor has a fuel bowl solenoid so that has to be dealt with first, you have 2 options but because you've stated that wiring isn't your thing lets keep it simple. The easiest way to get around it is to remove the solenoid, cut the end of the plunger off, reinstall the solenoid but leave the wire(s) unhooked and then install a inline fuel petcock so you can manually turn off the fuel when it's not in use.

For KILL you need to find where the 2 KILL wires coming from the coils join into 1, extend a wire from that into one post of a standard (2 post) toggle switch and from the other post run a wire to ground. What kills spark is the coil(s) being grounded.

For START you'll need to run 12v to one side of the push button switch and then a wire from the other side of the switch to the starting solenoid, if it's a 3 post solenoid it's easy, attach the wire to the small post. If it's a 4 post there's 2 big and 2 small posts, one small post should be wired to GROUND and the other is 12V input wired to the push button switch.

For CHARGE you can run a wire from the center post on the regulator (mounted on the fan shroud, should be marked B+) strait to the postive on the battery or alternatively to the large post on the starting solenoid that comes from the battery, it will work the same either way.

The issue you'll have now is that power will always be on and slowly drain the battery so you can either unhook the battery when you're not using it or add a cutoff switch like this.

Wiring can be intimidating but with practice and experience it gets easier, I really should make a writeup for rewiring tractors in different configurations as it's something that comes up often enough to warrant it.

Hope this helps you out!

Thanks again brainator for the great information I really do appreciate it very much

Brainator dose this wiring diagram git rid of the safety switches and the wire for them to or is that something I have to chase out myself

That wiring diagram is for the Kohler engine only so yes you need to chase tractor wiring yourself but it's pretty easy.

Considering you're replacing the key with a switch and push button the only wiring on the tractor you'll need are the battery cables, the wire from the battery to the start solenoid, from start solenoid to starter, the thinner guage wire that goes from the start solenoid to key switch and a charge wire as described above, everything else you can strip off the tractor which I recommend as it will simify the whole ordeal. Also if the start solenoid is a 4 post there will be a small ground wire which you may need to cut out of the harness and put a connector on the end to attach it to a ground, if it's a 3 post it grounds through the body of the solenoid and I personally would remove it long enough to clean the metal mounting surfaces so it has good contact.

I know for a briggs, but can help give you a basic idea.  The Kohler probably has a regulator so just chase that wire down for charging.

https://www.atltf.com/t38-briggs-engine-wiring-diagram

What are two wire coils set up cause is what is on the Kohler engine an it was changed over from a three wire coils to a two wire coils

It all was charged over for the 2 wire coils for a Killswitch on them coils

You'll have to post a pic of the part(s) you're referring to because I'm not sure I understand.

Her the best pic I have of the two wire coils and I converted it over from a 3 wire coils system from an older motor of the same I change it all over and the stators to was changed I change the engine wiring harness when I changed it over and the plug in hook up to the tractor side of the wiring harness when I did .

And I have put a tune up kit on it to after I'm put the new coils on it it got a new carb and new plugs and coils an I changed the oils cause when I would use it to mower with it would flood it self out and cause gas to go through the intake on the left side and down in the cylinder on that's and I had to used old oil to rinse the engine out once already cause this problem with the floor but when u just ride it a round or play with it it run good when it not being used for mowing

And to add to the coils I know fist hand that they will eat u up cause I found out the hard so it gitting plenty of sparks on by both cylinders

Aye, 2 wire coils?  Man I appologize.  I am unknowlegable when it comes to Kohler.  Especially the V-twins.  I just got my first Kohler last week and it is a simple old flat head.  Maybe someone else in the group has some insite.

I've never seen 3 wire Kohler coils before to be honest but I have a 16hp Kohler Command single with the 2 wire coil and a Spark Advance Module (SAM) like you which I can see hanging over the front left tire. All I remember is that without power to my SAM there was no spark, I'll have to actually look over that tractor in the daylight to see if I've made the engine shut down by removing power to the SAM or grounding the coils the conventional way.

Are you saying this flooding of the one cylinder started after you did the 3 - 2 wire coil swap? If so were they new or used? Did you also swap over the flywheel? Maybe the magnet that triggers the coils is a couple/few degrees off?

Please do us all a favor and put more effort into writing organized and coherent posts, it's really hard to follow along and understand when it's the written the way it is.

When I got the mower it had a 3 coils system on it and I found another tractor just like that had a blown motor on it and the coils was bad on it so I bought new coils for the 2 wire coils when swap everything over to this motor also along with the flywheel to was swapped over to and that is why that lil black box it just hanging there but when I put the engine cover on it it bolts up with the cover cause before the other motor didn't have that lil back box so i had to changed the engine wiring harness so it wouth all work and and long with the right flywheel to .

before I swapped everything over this was the coils that was on it and they was discontinued and it a 100 buck for other set up for it so I have to swapped it over and found out that i could git a 2 wire coils of a set of 2 for 40 buck so i went that way swapeed it all over but the tractor side of the wireing harness

Do you have the model number for the other motor that had 2 wire coils on it? If so please post it (or a picture), I have an thought of why the one cylinder might be flooding out... some but not all twins use 2 different coils on each side so if you've used 2 rights (or lefts) it could potentially
be putting spark timing out on one of them because of that wonderfully craptastic SAM. I very well could be wrong but it's an idea to look into

They where the same as the model num as the one Ipost but yes I have the hood for them them where I had ordered them and found them on Amazon

Do want me to post here or in messages

But the engine numbers where the same

Post here, keep all the info together. Not the hood the fan shroud for the engine that had 2 wire coils. There must be some difference in the 2 engine part numbers if one had 2 wires and a SAM and the other had 3 wire coils with no SAM, I'll assume the 3 wire coils had the SAM integrated?

here what I have one the to wire coils

I know the 3 wire coils is 100 and something a piece so at that time I could put out that much for 2 of them so I had to work with what I had at the time and both of the engine where the same but it was just the engine wire harness had to be swapped for the 2 wire coils and it only flood when the mowing deck is engaged

Okay now we're getting somewhere, the wiring diagram I had posted above was the wrong one (single wire coils) so here are the 2 we need to work with!

2 wire coils:

3 wire coils:

I'm pretty sure this is going to change how you shut down the engine with the switch but until I look over my tractor in the daylight I won't know for sure.

Do the 2 wire coils you got have the same or different part numbers if you know/if they're printed on them.

Just to clairfly, you've swapped over the complete 2 wire coil system including the coils, flywheel, wiring harness amd SAM is that right?

Yes they do have the number on the but I would have to go out and take engine cover off to git the number

I swapped it all over

I used the sereil number to find the 2 wire coils