100$ Dation 16HP MTD 990 "Mud Train"

Is it possible to put that coil on backwards?  The timing is way too advanced.  75 PSI seems kinda low to me for compression, but something is going on if it tripled.

when the thing ran good it had only 25psi. and i did put the could on backwards, it did not spark the correct way. something i did not mention here or in the video is last time it ran when had weak spark at one point it made a harsh bang, then it kept making these harsh rattly bangs till it stalled out, and it never started again. i hoped it was ignition knock since i had weak spark.

well, still have not got the drive shaft off, snapped my last dremmel bit seeing if i could get it in there to make a slit for a flat head.

still minimal luck.

Now that I've watched a couple of these videos I'd say there's an ignition problem here causing it to fire backwards, 75 PSI of compression is nowhere near high enough to casue those kind of issues. Also it happened as soon as you put that new coil on, which seems like a pretty good indication to me that the issue is spark timing related.

Have you checked out the flywheel key? Really sounds like it sheared. Is it hydrolocked? I doubt the compression release failed.

You have allen wrenches don't you?

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Have you checked out the flywheel key? Really sounds like it sheared. Is it hydrolocked? I doubt the compression release failed.

You have allen wrenches don't you?

how do you explain the trippling of compression?

and yes i do, i snapped one off in the other side of that pully, i hammerd it in and used a breaker bar in it, actualy it might have been a start bit.

I really think its the flywheel key causing most of this.

Are you sure it's not hydrolocked?

The compression increase could have been caused by the rings seating a bit better due to running a few different times, or something like that.

i can tell you this thing firing the wrong way happend before i changed the magnete, i was hoping the magneto was the problem is the spark was really weak from it the new one proved much much better spark. also what keystock are you talking about?



i dont see any evidence they fly whel has moved from its position with the shaft.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I really think its the flywheel key causing most of this.

Are you sure it's not hydrolocked?

its an updraft carb, im not flooding the motor with liquid gas.

Looks like that shaft is the flywheel nut? That small plate helps lock it in place via the hex head on the shaft nut.  To check the key being sheered, you would have to remove the little plate and that shaft. (should unscrew with a deep well and impact).  Then see if the keyway lines up.

MightyRaze wrote:

Looks like that shaft is the flywheel nut? That small plate helps lock it in place via the hex head on the shaft nut.  To check the key being sheered, you would have to remove the little plate and that shaft. (should unscrew with a deep well and impact).  Then see if the keyway lines up.

deep well impact? so i can just use an adjustable wrench right? becase i dont got any sockets that wold fit that for an impact drill.

An impact would break it loose easier. You’ll have to find some way to jam the engine to use a wrench?

Yikes, adjustable wrench sounds like strip the head city?  Also if you do have a big wrench, you may be able to put rope down the spark plug to keep it from turning all the way over.  wedging something in the flywheel fans could break them off.

well, i could not get the fly wheel off, i also took the carb off and held my hand over the intake and check for sucsion, i got a little then alot of blow, way more blow than suck. im back on thinking my timing is off without a doubt.

blowing out the intake!  Sounds like the cam/crank timing is way off.

if some one thinks they can get the motor off they can have it for free. i cant get it off short of cutting it out.

I wish I was 1200 miles closer.  I'd take it off your hands.

I GOT IT! I GOT IT! I GOT IT! I GOT IT! I GOT IT!
that thing ended up being a metalic swis roll of metaly metal. video if its romval might be out tonight. im about to head back out and see if i can fix the motor without new parts. if i can, i will and im keeping it. if i cant its still free for any one who wants it and ile stick with that 12hp that needs rings.

how do i make shure i have the timing adjusted correct on the motor?

also anything were i need to worry about torqe? and if so what?

If you bypassed the condenser and breaker points there won't be any timing adjustment anymore.

if you telling me to do that, i dont know what that is. are you saying i cant move the camshaft?

found this video