Peerless MST Durably and R&D

So with the (don't even know what to call it lol, go kart on steroids) build we are planning on using:

- A peerless 90 degree left hand gear box
-to a Mst205-545c i have

I have found the specs on the angle box and it's complicated thinking about it.
http://www.peerlessgear.com/node5379.aspx?nid=300861

The interesting thing is that logically these were made for tractor use. or low horse, low rpm, high torque.
same for the most part in the transaxel

Because we are powering them off of a 440 2 stroke Polaris (fuji) engine that I calculated makes around 30 ft/lbs max at around 7,800 rpm.

So in conclusion we are going to be doing some fairly hard stress testing knowing we are going to make a normal peerless run up to 80-120 mph

This will be interesting as to how long until it gets shredded.

yeah problems with these transaxles is that the shafts inside them have bushings and not oil lubricated ball bearings.  Bushings are great for low rpm stuff, but don't last long in higher rpm and heat situations.

that's what we figured, we are already planing on moding it to have a sump or two,
pump and a atf cooler.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't leave a single bushing in that case if you're thiniing about reaching those speeds. Wouldn't take long for one of them to get eaten up.

Have you thought about making your own case and converting from bushings to ball bearings?  Check out a 3 piece wheelhorse transmission.  That'd be a starting point for a homemade housing design.

Full bearings, or nothing. I just can't see bushings tolerating that kind of abuse. If you MUST use a pancake transaxle, I VERY strongly recommend a Peerless 820 converted for oil. It can take a lot more stress, and ships with a full bearing package. Iron diff carrier, too.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Full bearings, or nothing. I just can't see bushings tolerating that kind of abuse. If you MUST use a pancake transaxle, I VERY strongly recommend a Peerless 820 converted for oil. It can take a lot more stress, and ships with a full bearing package. Iron diff carrier, too.

At that high RPM the chain is likely to break and cause mass havok.  IDK, it just seems like 820s are overrated. Most people who have them say they are just a big MST with a chain reverse, and a 1" shaft that make it harder to find pulleys for it.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Full bearings, or nothing. I just can't see bushings tolerating that kind of abuse. If you MUST use a pancake transaxle, I VERY strongly recommend a Peerless 820 converted for oil. It can take a lot more stress, and ships with a full bearing package. Iron diff carrier, too.

At that high RPM the chain is likely to break and cause mass havok.  IDK, it just seems like 820s are overrated. Most people who have them say they are just a big MST with a chain reverse, and a 1" shaft that make it harder to find pulleys for it.

I disagree, like @Doc Sprocket mentioned it has full bearings.  Needle bearings instead of bushings and also ball bearings on the axle.  It actually has a 3/4 input shaft not 1"  the 1" is the axle.  It is much more durable.  Yeah a point of contention is the reverse chain.  While still durable for mudding applications, it is recommended to remove for speed applications.

Unlike it's other "GT" cousins, the 820 does allow you easy shift on the fly.

I think no matter what you use, you are going to chooch the tranny after the first gear shift.

biggasmowers wrote:

I think no matter what you use, you are going to chooch the tranny after the first gear shift.

In this case I agree.

Maybe he should hunt around for some snowmobile or atv drivetrain parts that would handle the power and speed better. If only there was a really heavily built garden tractor transaxle with no bushings or reverse chain and 1 1/8 axles?

Oh yeah a Wheel Horse 8 speed!

The engine is coming out of a Polaris sled I have. were using the MST because it's siting around lol. But anyway the idea was to use a sequential mower transmission because the diff will let us do double wishbone suspension all around. And honestly we are probably going to pull it apart anyway and take the chain off, put bearings in and make the homemade pressure oil system with cooler.

Like run CV shafts off each axle and then mount up the double control arm setup to the frame? I don't know, it'd suck to build all that around it just to have the trans fail.

Not necessarily, knowing how much space there is we could drop several things into the small area, and Im honestly more worried about heat then poping shifting keys.

I'd be worried about the input shaft bearing/bushing. Or the bushings for the main and counter shaft for that matter. I would think exensive machine work would be required because the bushings should be replaced with bushings.

Just run a live axle with u joints like dune buggies that are powered with motoe cycle engines. They have a middle solid area with bearings and a drive attachment, then after the brackets there is a u joint on each side allowing for wishbone suspension.

biggasmowers wrote:

Just run a live axle with u joints like dune buggies that are powered with motoe cycle engines. They have a middle solid area with bearings and a drive attachment,  then after the brackets there is a u joint on each side allowing for wishbone suspension.

The CTLT has spoken!

Yup!!!!!!!! oh I could use the mst if you don't end up blowing it up ......... i would give ya like 50 bucks for it