new mudder/work tractor

SH*T i never even thought of that!! i was thinking brakes off a motor bike but i didnt wanna mess with hydraulic lines but im a lot farther north then you lol theres cheap sleds all over up here so if i can find 2 of everything i was thinking of doing individual wheel brakes like on a fullsize tractor but put the pedals close enough together that i can hit both at once if i need to

thats what i thot at first... hydrolic looked way to confusing but i figured if i can find a complete set it wouldnt be to bad. up there u could prolly find old wrecked sleds out in the middle of no where that u could take parts from. maybe even put a snow mobile engine in it... lol

you could even find a way to rig it to one petal.. you can prolly buy a splitter fitting for the line then you would have a 2 into 1. that goes to only 1 master cylinder. kinda like some mower racers do with feul lines to run 2 carbs on a twin.

http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Fuel-Line-Y-fitting-1123
like this


also heres another racing mower site i found http://www.golawnmowerracing.com i havent really looked at it yet but cant be anymore strict than heymow... looks to be strictly racing tho

i actually own a 250 single that willl run on its side like a lawn tractor motor, just wait until i find a frame lol

that would be sweet. sounds like theres carb problems u should tryin an fix the carb an have it runnin at its full potental. i dont know if horizontal shaft engines are like vertcal where if you turn it on its side it wont get enuff oil or somethin. might want to make sure

theres nothing wrong with it all i need to do is put it on a frame and make a pipe for it
with the 2 stroke engine the oil in the gas lubricates the whole engine and the special carb will work on any angle you want it to, my brother had it on one years ago but it blew the tranny from all the power

oh my bad i misread your post. i thought you said it would "only" run on its side. Then go for it, that that would be sweet:)

Its possible to run a verticle shaft on its side- a flat head would be easier ( no oil up to the rockers) - basically would just need to adjust the oil level and make a new intake for a carb ( to twist it to level position) - again- its another thing on my list to try and do - maybe once i get the wizard going- ill attempt using my crappy 10HP briggs on it horizontally.

its really hard. theres some important thingsyou would have to do. one thing you would have a problem with is fix the oiling system anther thing you would have to do is turn the carb so its facing the right way. im sure there other things you would have to do also i know it can and has been done but its not easy.

theboredredneck wrote:

i have finally had enough with my old lawn tractor so i am building a new one, this is basicly the same but i am stripping it from the frame and painting it then starting the build.
my friend called me today asking if i had parts to fix the motor that was on it and said 'no theres a reason why i have no tecumpseh parts' but i drove my other tractor to his house anyway. when i saw it i wanted it right away because its like the one i have now but in better shape and after i turned it over by hand and it having next to no compression and it being a tecumpseh i talked him into pulling the motor and selling it to me for 20 bucks lol
this has a peerless 5 speed (other one has a 6 so i think im going to use it until it dies)
its going to have a stock 3 inch engine pulley and a 3 inch on the tranny
raised up fenders so the 25 inch bearclaws will fit under there with no issues, i dont like the look of the other ones cut fenders
HOPEFULLY it will have my 14hp twin briggs that i have sitting under that truck cap in the back of the one pictures, the coil is dead and i have one that works on it but the wires are the wrong length so ones too long and the others to tight. but if this engine doesnt work out for me i will just use the 11hp briggs from my other one
i am going to cut the bumper off the other one and bolt it to this one and add some 1x1 tubing to cover the grill
i am going to take the front axle out and raise it up about 2 inches so it doesnt have such a rake with the bearclaws on it then i will also do some cutting to get more articulation out of it at the same time then i will properly set up the steering so it will go in a straight line at full speed
and after all that if i can find a decent way to put brakes on it i will because i do a lot of pulling and brakes are needed, my method of slowing down is VERY hard on it lol
and of course i will add my snowmobile tail light and ooga horn that i have on the other one to this one

i got this exact model, got it from my uncle was sitting in his new houses back yard, im usin the hood and fenders cause they're just awsome, and puttin on a 98 mtd huskee, will use the 5 speed outta this one once i get the right size wheels. itll have vari-drive and a 5 speed trans!

I have that model tractor as well- i ditched the stock 12HP teccy ( still have it tho) - because the breather puked oil and saturated the air cleaner- still runs. Right now it has a 12HP briggs on it. I was going to mod it, but since i got a parts craftsman- im keeping it a 'custom' mower- ill mod out the parts craftsman chassis someday.

About the verticle shaft running sideways - yeah i was watching a thread at hey mow- guy used a 14.5HP verticle sideways on his racer, always had a ton of issues with it ( broke cranks is one)- with a flathead there shouldnt be as many issues - a guy on YT also did a 10HP verticle shaft flathead horizontally on his go kart - his ran pretty good. I figure if i mount my 10HP at an angle with the governer pointing up ( i dont remove the governer for ANY reason) - it shouldnt leak out of there, plus the breather should be good as well.

Ill have to make a custom intake to mount the carb correctly, find a good oil level that works ( i might run synthetic- i want super thin oil)- thats why if i have any problems - i wont be p'd off at wrecking a good motor- i was getting pissed at the motor on my agway tward the end before i brot it down anyway .

Heres the pic of that 14.5 mounted horizontally:



Reason i could see this wouldnt work is the OHV motor- oil needs to get way up there to keep the rockers oiled - on a flathead, you dont- just need enough oil to keep the crank/rod oiled up- it has a slinger - so you dont need a ton of oil. Ill haveta see how im gonna put the oil in the motor tho- might need to make another oil fill.

i have access to the stock motor but theres a reason why i dont have it lol actually just before i put it on my trailer i told the guy he can keep the motor because i have only ever had problems with tecumpseh

today i finally got some time in working on the tractor. i dont like working when its very much below freezing, and well canada in january/ febuary its cold lol but today was actually warm, i think it was 8 not incluting the windchill (thats 46 fahrenheit) and i wasnt busy after school so i thought id try to get as much done while i can because all winter i have worked all weekends and some full days then the days im not at work its way to cold to work, i know i know im canadian but i dont like to work with cold metal and i cant wear gloves, they're to bulky
so i have it stripped right down to the frame so now theres only the axles and steering parts on it and i started painting some pieces. i thought it would be to cold for it to dry properly but it was drying just like it did mid summer last year. so tomorrow it should be warm again so im going to try to get all the rust off the parts ready as i have to wait for more paint. when i have it all painted and back together i will post some pictues
just wondering what you all think what should i do for colour on the fenders and hood? they have some rust on them and i want it to look good so i have to paint them too

today i took the steering off to see if theres a way i can tighten it up so i dont have to go direct steer and on my model of tractor the steering can actually be fixed, it has next to no play but the little bit there is the gear moving on the shaft so tomorrow i am going to weld it at school (my welder isnt good enough for something i never wanna reweld
hopefully i will have paint for tomorrow so i can start painting and building

Hey mow is all die hard racers- i was on there years ago and got kicked out because i mentioned i never planned on racing my murray- talk about s*it hitting the fan. Like im going to spend a few thousand getting a racing mower ready to drive 4 hours to a track every so often - i was labeled a 'backyard basher' . Too rule driven on specific classes for me anyway. I dont say be cheep on brakes or saftey, but things dont have to be built overkill here tho. On there theyll also inquire on your updates if its being built 'according to the class' or theyll lock that thread as well.

Most times theyll send you over to that other all terrain tractor site- theyre pretty rule driven as well - anything not built to rules gets locked and banned.

I get alot of info and pictures off there for stuff i want to build- most racers tho are tight lipped about technical stuff on thier machines because they want the winning edge.

I went to a thrift store yesterday and saw a brand new set of car rotors for $25 each - i was tempted to get them. I have an idea about a hydraulic setup that might work. On you tube a guy i subscribed to is building a hommade go kart with full suspension- he used a rear hydraulic master cylender from a motorcycle as well as the caliper and disc from the same bike.

Me, i want to hit the local auto junk yards see what kind of disc setup and caliper i can get off a car cheep enough and use the motorcycle master cylender- ill have to make my own hubs to mount the rotor to the axle tho.

Dang- too many projects and ideas and no time to do it!

Need something small, like a geo metro or similar sized car.

im looking for a street bike to get the brakes off then take it into the machine shop and mod the rotors to fit on the axles and set it up with independant rear brakes, so if one fails i have a backup and itll turn sharper lol

I dont think youll need to worry - using just one disc from a motorcycle will literally fling you off the tractor when slamming on the brakes - die hard racers use 4 discs - thing would definitly stop on a dime.


Jamus- yeah those rotors i saw were like for a honda - a pretty small car- about a 1 1/2' or so in diameter. With one of my lowered tractors id have to watch ground clearance or make a skid plate for it.

but if i use the one disc it will only stop one tire and if i have to brake hard it will turn a little

theboredredneck wrote:

but if i use the one disc it will only stop one tire and if i have to brake hard it will turn a little

lock tranny then

im thinking about it because it will help me a lot in the mud

finally got something done on the tractor worth updating about
i have the pulleys in place to keep the belt in line and away from other things so it wont rub, i just have to weld in 2 pieces of metal as keepers on the new pulleys (sorry no pictures of it i forgot) but i do have pictures of it as it sits now all painted up and ready for a motor.


i put the bear claws on so i knew how much of the fender i have to cut away so the tires wont rub, this is what i have to do when i cant pull the tire off by hand


tied off to the far wall in my shed


after a bit of fighting the tire came off

this is what it will look like when its done, i just set the hood and fenders on for this picture

then when i was done with the tires put them on my other tractor and went out playing. i didnt go far though because last night was -18 i believe and today was +5 so there was still a good 2 inches of ice on all the water around here and i dont like smashing through ice because its hard on the tractor