Video of us locking up a 820 the cheap way. Need someone to go romp this design, and see what happens! If it was to fail, it would stay inside the diff, and not ruin the rest of the transaxle.
I think you could get 2 more in ther (4 in all). Your right would be stronger. I did this style locker in my 820 still goin strong. But i do notice a lil slack in the diff 4 gears wouldent chang that. The only way to get rid of all the slack would be to dock lock it or solid axel. But this is a good fast an cheap salution for someone with no welder or just startin out.
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I think you could get 2 more in ther (4 in all). Your right would be stronger. I did this style locker in my 820 still goin strong. But i do notice a lil slack in the diff 4 gears wouldent chang that. The only way to get rid of all the slack would be to dock lock it or solid axel. But this is a good fast an cheap salution for someone with no welder or just startin out.
CornShuck, you can always weld the locker spiders together. They wouldn't be bearing the load of just welding them to the pin. What I mean is weld the two additional spiders to the original spiders then that may take up some slack and you won't have to worry about cracking them.
BTW, Doc-Lockers also requires strong welds. two pins welded to a shaft. Those welds probably hold more than the welds on the regular pin style. Those welds practically hold your final drive together. IF your welds on a pin style break you still have a sorta differential, depending on how she blows. With a Doc-Locker you loose those pins and your mode of transportation is done. Maybe I'm wrong idk lol.
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The problem iv had with welding the diff aint the weld braking its the gear itself breaking. Heating the gear changes the structure of the metal gear causing it to be mor brittle. The axel of a doc lock and pin is a difforent metal structure than the gear. Those welds be it as good as any other still makes the two metals act difforent. Thanks LMM i may be wrong but thats where my proplem lyes.
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The problem iv had with welding the diff aint the weld braking its the gear itself breaking. Heating the gear changes the structure of the metal gear causing it to be mor brittle. The axel of a doc lock and pin is a difforent metal structure than the gear. Those welds be it as good as any other still makes the two metals act difforent. Thanks LMM i may be wrong but thats where my proplem lyes.
True, PLUS- Keep in mind that the reason that welded diffs often fail, is the fact that you're not even dealing with standard, forged, mild steel. MOST diff gears are made from sintered steel. It is a manufacturing process that comes out far cheaper to produce, but sintered does not weld very well. Basically, instead of steel being melted down, forged (or cast) and then machined to spec, it is instead powdered, and then pressed into a mold of the finished product. The end result welds quite crappily. Not because you can't melt it, but because when you DO melt it, the melt is adjacent to more powdered poo. It's the dissimilarity that tends to be the failure point.
LAWN MOWER MUDDER wrote:
BTW, Doc-Lockers also requires strong welds. two pins welded to a shaft. Those welds probably hold more than the welds on the regular pin style. Those welds practically hold your final drive together. IF your welds on a pin style break you still have a sorta differential, depending on how she blows. With a Doc-Locker you loose those pins and your mode of transportation is done. Maybe I'm wrong idk lol. [/color]
Also true. You're zapping 5/8" to 3/4". You need a strong machine, and some skill as a welder. Like other "alternate" locking methods (the Zinc Locker comes to mind), it's not for everyone. It IS preferable to welding spiders though. I've been beating it like it owes me money, and it continues to hold.
Gotta say I am a fan of the double broached straight axle idea someone had a while back. I just got a straight axle 820 haven't cracked it open but pretty sure it's broached.
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The problem iv had with welding the diff aint the weld braking its the gear itself breaking. Heating the gear changes the structure of the metal gear causing it to be mor brittle. The axel of a doc lock and pin is a difforent metal structure than the gear. Those welds be it as good as any other still makes the two metals act difforent. Thanks LMM i may be wrong but thats where my proplem lyes.
True, PLUS- Keep in mind that the reason that welded diffs often fail, is the fact that you're not even dealing with standard, forged, mild steel. MOST diff gears are made from sintered steel. It is a manufacturing process that comes out far cheaper to produce, but sintered does not weld very well. Basically, instead of steel being melted down, forged (or cast) and then machined to spec, it is instead powdered, and then pressed into a mold of the finished product. The end result welds quite crappily.
I think the pins itself are made from sintered steel, not the gears, but i could be wrong.
Heres what it looks like broken, not on the weld, but the heated, brittle material right next to the weld. Foote axle:
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Subject: 
April 10th 2014, 10:17 pm
