New Sidebuild: JD210 - Racing Mower by the K.I.S.S. principle.

redzz02 wrote:

actually the gears are not all steel, one type is steel the other is i forget what they are made out of, they tell you if a magnet sticks to the gears your in luck, also if the bushings are not brass your gonna want to get new ones, ive had them lock up on me in minutes because they would melt to the shafts, also id remove the reverse chain 700's are getting harder and more expensive to find, at least around here, that chain will explode sooner or later and more than likely sooner its not fun at all

They are either machined steel, or sintered steel. I have 3 700's and a ton of documentation. FWIW- 700 gearsets are NOT unique, and are shared amongst the more common Peerless boxes, which also use primarily sintered gears. A magnet is useless in telling the difference. Sintered steel is also ferrous.

What's the difference?

A machined steel gear starts out as a normal casting- molten steel is poured into a mold. After cooling and solidifying, machines cut and grind the gear to it's final shape. All features are machined in. Forming a sintered part is cheaper and easier. The material is NOT heated until molten. Instead, it starts out in powdered form. The powder is loaded into a die (mold) and is formed in the mold with great pressure and heat, but NOT melted. Just very hot. When removed, it's done. Zero machining, the mold is a precise form of the finished gear. This process is a LOT cheaper than machining, and that is why it is done.

However- the molecular structure of a sintered steel part is different than that of one which is forged and machined. It isn't quite as strong, and doesn't weld as well. This has a lot to do with why welded mower diffs have a fairly high failure rate (and one reason of several why I chose a different diff-locking method). The spider gears in our diffs are also made with this process.

The bike chain sounds like a very good idea. I may well do the same for MULEII. Although the purpose is utility, I will be giving it's 700 the "race" treatment... But I need reverse.

im fully aware other trannys share the same gears as the 700 series, just from my personal experiences and where im located its getting harder and harder to find the, and its not the gears that go, its the casings that decide to go, and im sorry i miss printed that meaning putting a magnet to the bushings if they dont stick your good, and the fact that like you stated the forged gears are stronger and thats what racers look for, i had my brain completely mixed up

I bet its the shocks and knocks that breaks the cases, so how about to rubber mount the whole gearbox? Yes there is tough rubber mounts out there, usually found on automotive gearboxes..

the toothed belts are cooler running because of the teeth on them. that is the only benefit from them

I would offer the following:

The 5/8 belt should offer better grip, as long as you have B-section or combination pulleys to take advantage of that fact. The cogged belt will run cooler, and may help compensate for the fact that a B-section belt suffers a greater friction loss than an A-section belt. B-section belts tend to be lousy for manual clutching, but since you're using a centrifugal clutch, you should be good there.

A word on centrifugal clutches from a go kart nut-

Keep an eye on your gear ratios and tire sizes. Hilliard Extreme Duty is a brand name, and nothing more. It is an off-the-shelf clutch, no better than a Comet or Max Torque. If you need a clutch that can take REAL abuse, you need a racing clutch like a Noram.

As you're doing your shakedown runs, watch for excessive slip and check that the clutch doesn't get too hot. Heat kills these clutches.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

I would offer the following:

The 5/8 belt should offer better grip, as long as you have B-section or combination pulleys to take advantage of that fact. The cogged belt will run cooler, and may help compensate for the fact that a B-section belt suffers a greater friction loss than an A-section belt. B-section belts tend to be lousy for manual clutching, but since you're using a centrifugal clutch, you should be good there.

A word on centrifugal clutches from a go kart nut-

Keep an eye on your gear ratios and tire sizes. Hilliard Extreme Duty is a brand name, and nothing more. It is an off-the-shelf clutch, no better than a Comet or Max Torque. If you need a clutch that can take REAL abuse, you need a racing clutch like a Noram.

As you're doing your shakedown runs, watch for excessive slip and check that the clutch doesn't get too hot. Heat kills these clutches.

Cool.

And yeah I know about clutches and heat, it's rated 13HP I think. I'm using it since I had it from last build. Tho it was supposed to go on the Scorpio Hydro build.

Depending on how the CVT works on the Craftsman build, i'm switching to CVT also on this. Hopefully a mean mowcheen CVtech one.

Hmm. I might need one.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Hmm. I might need one.

Hmm..

6 cents to buy, $75 to ship from Norway... LOL

If any North American members are interested, I have a Timken part #, should be available from any local auto parts store.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

6 cents to buy, $75 to ship from Norway... LOL

If any North American members are interested, I have a Timken part #, should be available from any local auto parts store.

Prob $2 in a letter envelope.

Then I admire your local auto store if they have these things in stock. Our store's don't have ***** anymore.

I find that (here anyways) the problem with auto parts stores tends to be knowledge and data. Sure- you can go in there and ask for the front main oil seal for your 83 Lada (LOL) and walk away with part in hand. But if you need that very same seal for a custom application and have only the dimensions and not an automotive application or major manufacturer's part number, you're sunk.

FWIW, the oil seal is Timken part # 340387. Quite usually, a parts store CAN reference a number like this.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

I find that (here anyways) the problem with auto parts stores tends to be knowledge and data. Sure- you can go in there and ask for the front main oil seal for your 83 Lada (LOL) and walk away with part in hand. But if you need that very same seal for a custom application and have only the dimensions and not an automotive application or major manufacturer's part number, you're sunk.

FWIW, the oil seal is Timken part # 340387. Quite usually, a parts store CAN reference a number like this.

Agree, I always encourage shops to write dimensions when they can, take BMI. On 40% its says, fits yerf-dog and so on. But they should have had both dimensions and that it fits the particular model. - that's called 'more sale' or how you spell it.

My Oilseal is mounted   Waiting for the chain.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

I
FWIW, the oil seal is Timken part # 340387. Quite usually, a parts store CAN reference a number like this.

Oh and we call those Lip Seals, That one I used have a spring inside (look on the picture), - Usually called an Single sided or a double sided Type WA and WAS OIl Seal.
But there are tons of types, but the spring keeps the tension on the axle at all times.

WA (sc)

WAS (TC)

the bottom one looks like the ones that peerless put in the MSTs

Whats new?

Huh. You have seemed to got my rims! Here- ill PM you my address so you can send them to me. LOL

Those tires looks like good subjects to burn off. LOL.

I like the check list,
1. Racing vehicle,                      NO
2. Asphalt or highway,               NO
3. Vehicle in assess of 600lbs,     NO
4. Jumping,                              NO
5. Recreational vehicle use,             Yes

LOL that cracked me up reading that!

That IS pretty dang funny!