New Sidebuild: JD210 - Racing Mower by the K.I.S.S. principle.

Tadaa? I dont know exact dim.'s but it prolly 15" wide at most, around 20" tall. Im gunna basically cut it in half to covor my v twin.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Tadaa? I dont know exact dim.'s but it prolly 15" wide at most, around 20" tall. Im gunna basically cut it in half to covor my v twin.

Yes, its the same shape as the JD210 hood, I might wrap steel around my hood aswell, but thats not yet.

You getting custom rods too or just the flywheel?

Doug Fackler wrote:

You getting custom rods too or just the flywheel?

Not sure, so not now. the flywheel alone was 350$ yaikeee.

Looking good!

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Looking good!

Thanks.

I still can't decide for an adjustable front axle or not, and the dimensions  

I think I have one of those transmissions in the garage, I took it off of a billy goat leaf vaccum.

WoW Thunder that's the same type/year of my new "to me" 700 that will be going in the racer.  Anyway nice find!

Now that someone has another transmission like mine I have some questions...

How many mounting holes are there actually,  It looks like 4 but others have 6 so I was curious.

Is it oil or grease?

Last.. Can I swap in another gearset from my Peerless 930 (minus 6th gear)?

mr.modified wrote:

I think I have one of those transmissions in the garage, I took it off of a billy goat leaf vaccum.

They are strong IF you mount them properly, meaning supporting the input shaft.

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

waterjet  Cut a plate for it, press fit it. doesn't really matter how you do it, just that you do it. If a bearing or a pipe fit over it snuggly, you could put a pipe over it, then weld crossbars to it. Many ways. lol

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

waterjet  Cut a plate for it, press fit it. doesn't really matter how you do it, just that you do it. If a bearing or a pipe fit over it snuggly, you could put a pipe over it, then weld crossbars to it. Many ways. lol

Wait, do you have a picture of one? Im probably over thinking this

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

waterjet  Cut a plate for it, press fit it. doesn't really matter how you do it, just that you do it. If a bearing or a pipe fit over it snuggly, you could put a pipe over it, then weld crossbars to it. Many ways. lol

Wait, do you have a picture of one? Im probably over thinking this

No, I didnt draw mine yet, but ECC sells a spacer and a mount plate. But I wont use the spacer, waste of space and money.

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/13x8-transmission-plate.html

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/bushing-transmission-support.html

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

waterjet  Cut a plate for it, press fit it. doesn't really matter how you do it, just that you do it. If a bearing or a pipe fit over it snuggly, you could put a pipe over it, then weld crossbars to it. Many ways. lol

Wait, do you have a picture of one? Im probably over thinking this

No, I didnt draw mine yet, but ECC sells a spacer and a mount plate. But I wont use the spacer, waste of space and money.

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/13x8-transmission-plate.html

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/bushing-transmission-support.html

So are you making a plate with that "bushing" on it? or are you making one with a plate with the hole the same size as the shaft?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

How are you going to go about supporting the input?

waterjet  Cut a plate for it, press fit it. doesn't really matter how you do it, just that you do it. If a bearing or a pipe fit over it snuggly, you could put a pipe over it, then weld crossbars to it. Many ways. lol

Wait, do you have a picture of one? Im probably over thinking this

No, I didnt draw mine yet, but ECC sells a spacer and a mount plate. But I wont use the spacer, waste of space and money.

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/13x8-transmission-plate.html

https://eccarburetors.com/webstore/bushing-transmission-support.html

So are you making a plate with that "bushing" on it? or are you making one with a plate with the hole the same size as the shaft?

Yes same size as the shaft, biggest size. then just fill the tiny cone with Polurethane filler, that will also help and dampen shocks.

So, your mounting plate will also act as a input supporter?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

So, your mounting plate will also act as a input supporter?

Yes

Yeah- that Bentonite is something else, isn't it? Just horrible, nasty stuff.

Regarding the gears- none of them will be cast iron. They either sintered or machined, both steel. The machined steel gears are superior, but much harder to come by. Sintered gears are easily identifiable. They have a distinct colour, as well as other notable features like the lack of cutting marks, and very square, sharp edges.

Will you be removing the reverse chain, or keeping it? Most guys remove it because it is a potential failure point. As I'm sure you saw, chain clearance inside the case is pretty tight. If the chain were to let go, it will wad up and blow the case apart.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Yeah- that Bentonite is something else, isn't it? Just horrible, nasty stuff.

Regarding the gears- none of them will be cast iron. They either sintered or machined, both steel. The machined steel gears are superior, but much harder to come by. Sintered gears are easily identifiable. They have a distinct colour, as well as other notable features like the lack of cutting marks, and very square, sharp edges.

Will you be removing the reverse chain, or keeping it? Most guys remove it because it is a potential failure point. As I'm sure you saw, chain clearance inside the case is pretty tight. If the chain were to let go, it will wad up and blow the case apart.

Ok after hearing that could I swap in a gearset from a peerless mst-205 with gear driven reverse to eliminate that problem?

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Yeah- that Bentonite is something else, isn't it? Just horrible, nasty stuff.

Regarding the gears- none of them will be cast iron. They either sintered or machined, both steel. The machined steel gears are superior, but much harder to come by. Sintered gears are easily identifiable. They have a distinct colour, as well as other notable features like the lack of cutting marks, and very square, sharp edges.

Will you be removing the reverse chain, or keeping it? Most guys remove it because it is a potential failure point. As I'm sure you saw, chain clearance inside the case is pretty tight. If the chain were to let go, it will wad up and blow the case apart.

Guess mine's sintered then (very sharp), and no I will keep the reverse chain for now, but im going to try to isolate it with a plastic plate, but first i need to clean the rest of this gunky bensonite goo.

I'm not sure what you're going to do with plastic that could possibly keep the chain from wadding up and blowing the case apart if it ever fails. Now would be a terrific time to install a new, quality chain.

actually the gears are not all steel, one type is steel the other is i forget what they are made out of, they tell you if a magnet sticks to the gears your in luck, also if the bushings are not brass your gonna want to get new ones, ive had them lock up on me in minutes because they would melt to the shafts, also id remove the reverse chain 700's are getting harder and more expensive to find, at least around here, that chain will explode sooner or later and more than likely sooner its not fun at all

redzz02 wrote:

actually the gears are not all steel, one type is steel the other is i forget what they are made out of, they tell you if a magnet sticks to the gears your in luck, also if the bushings are not brass your gonna want to get new ones, ive had them lock up on me in minutes because they would melt to the shafts, also id remove the reverse chain 700's are getting harder and more expensive to find, at least around here, that chain will explode sooner or later and more than likely sooner its not fun at all

They are either machined steel, or sintered steel. I have 3 700's and a ton of documentation. FWIW- 700 gearsets are NOT unique, and are shared amongst the more common Peerless boxes, which also use primarily sintered gears. A magnet is useless in telling the difference. Sintered steel is also ferrous.

What's the difference?

A machined steel gear starts out as a normal casting- molten steel is poured into a mold. After cooling and solidifying, machines cut and grind the gear to it's final shape. All features are machined in. Forming a sintered part is cheaper and easier. The material is NOT heated until molten. Instead, it starts out in powdered form. The powder is loaded into a die (mold) and is formed in the mold with great pressure and heat, but NOT melted. Just very hot. When removed, it's done. Zero machining, the mold is a precise form of the finished gear. This process is a LOT cheaper than machining, and that is why it is done.

However- the molecular structure of a sintered steel part is different than that of one which is forged and machined. It isn't quite as strong, and doesn't weld as well. This has a lot to do with why welded mower diffs have a fairly high failure rate (and one reason of several why I chose a different diff-locking method). The spider gears in our diffs are also made with this process.