Shaft Drive Ideas?

I was wondering if a shaft drive setup is possible with a peerless 700 gearbox a http://www.bmikarts.com/Universal-U-Joint-_p_1465.html and a FNR transmission.

Now my Idea is to drive the tranny is get for the motor http://www.bmikarts.com/Hilliard-Extreme-Duty-1-Clutch-17T-4041-_p_726.html then on the 700 get a 17T #40-41 chain on the input shaft, now you have to put the 700 90* to the rear so the output is pointing at the back of the tractor, now you don't need this exact one but get a http://www.bmikarts.com/Universal-U-Joint-_p_1465.html and mount it to the output (note. You may need to weld it on.). now you will need to mount the FNR 90* also, now when the FNR is mounted the input shaft should be pointing forward. Now you should be able to mount the U-joint to the FNR and the 700 and now you should have a 5 or 3 speed forward and reverse. now you use reverse on the tranny and the forward on the FNR for odd places, LOL. now tell me how i'm thinking, I may be able to do this in the future but I highly doubt I can do it.

I'm not really sure but it sounds like it may would work. But not worth the hassle. But the only thing is with a peerless 700 would have to run a chain to a live axle not to another transaxle.

My setup is very much like yours, I have a mst-206 mounted sideways on bottom of the mower and The pulley and clutch setup are the same, but since its turned sideways im using the locked axle as a driveshaft that runs to a gearbox with axle,s, basically the same setup but with a transaxle.

In principle, it will work. There are a few hurdles along the way.

You'll have to wear out several buttons on your calculator trying to figure out gearing. You'll have the clutch-to-700 ratio to concern yourself with, in order to be able to have a realistic ratio through the 700 using it's own internal reduction. You'll then have to figure out the available ratios of your particular FNR box and whether those will work with it.

Mechanically, it's fairly sound. The input shaft on the 700 is 5/8", with a 1/8" woodruff key. Any common 5/8" driveline hardware (hubs, U-joints, couplers, sprockets, pulleys etc) will fit, and you can retain with a setscrew.

The 700 output is more difficult. The output shaft is splined, and measures around 0.612". 5/8" hardware will not fit on properly. Floating, it will flop around and if you try to retain it with a setscrew, it will cock out of true. This will seriously cause you driveline issues. So far, I have determined 2 ways to get around the splined portion WITHOUT dropping bucks at a machine shop.

1)Use the factory brake rotor (fits the splines properly) and weld whatever you like to it. For the racer, I welded a 13T drive sprocket to it. You could weld and adapter to it for your U-Joint (advised) or weld your U-Joint directly to it (not advised).

2)Hand grind a keyway into the output shaft. Wrap some shim stock (likely around 0.007") around the shaft, and THEN fit a common 5/8" shaft component to it.

The PROPER way is the expensive way- have the output shaft machined down to 1/2" and a keyway milled in to use common 1/2" driveline components.

that is some good thoughts doc, I'm no scientist but I would think that the motor will most likely go 4300RPM so the tranny would be sped up as well but I'm not really trying to go fast maby 15 MPH max, maby stock speed max IDK, but with the setup (if I was going to do it) I would have some coil springs, trailing bars, sway bars and some major flex.

in theory it would work


im interested to see how it would work in real life

Well- the input speed of the tranny is going to be entirely dependant on the sprocket ratio from the clutch to the 700 input sprocket. Be aware that shifting on the fly isn't really going to happen either. Not only is the 700 not designed to synchronize, but the centrifugal clutch will stay partially engaged until the engine spins down near idle.

I know- Some guys swear they shift these things on the fly all the time and get away with it- However do keep in mind that it's a design issue, and while some folks seem to have all the luck, you can't bank on it. Kinda like blowing your entire paycheque on lottery tickets hoping you'll at least break even. You might- you probably won't.

Well doc, I know the 700 isn't a shift on the fly but the N in the FNR would make it a little better I would think because if you freewheel the shaft to get the 700 in gear you could put the FNR back into F and continue driving.

Now that would be funny if you put the 700 in reverse and the fnr into reverse, wouldn't you go forward? Bahahaha

yeah LOL

if you took the reverse out of the 700 and just left it a 5 speed than you had the fnr as a fnr... lol.

crazykid1994 wrote:

if you took the reverse out of the 700 and just left it a 5 speed than you had the fnr as a fnr... lol.

That could work but who woudn't want a 6 speed "700FNR" "TM" Ariens YT11 LOL.

it would technically still be a 5 speed. 5 speeds forward or reverse. lol. it would be cool if you could swap the reverse in the fnr for a lower geared reverse to add power and torque

It would actually be a good idea to use the combination as an opportunity to get rid of the reverse chain in the 700. Eliminates a potential failure point.

What are you left with? A 10-Speed. 5 forward, 5 reverse.

doc does have a point.