B S 16.5 Ohv hard starting

I just picked up a decent old Craftsman lt1000 to mod but have since decided it mows too well so I'm keeping it stock for now. I know little about this engine and am looking for heads up on both it and the tractor. I figured out the hard starting...yep valves YouTube and this Site are wonderful! Looks to be easiest valve adjustment ever except finding tdc. Never was good at that.

I'd like to tighten up steering response, and the blade lever Wallowa around quite a bit when engaging. Thanks guys!

lol I sqinted

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

lol I sqinted

i zoomed in with my computer and still had to get a pair of binoculars to see it

Fixed it.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Fixed it.

thanx doug my mother started to look at me crazy lol

Sorry guys! Something I did Doug? I was posting from my Blackberry playbook...??

Valve lash, was it? Glad you got it sorted out... Good job!

Valve lash is #1 cause of those Briggs OHV engines refusing to turn over/start. Got 3 of them a while back, each were "seized". Well, 1 really was, bad crank bearing. The other 2 just needed a valve adjustment (learned the same way you did - videos and forums) and both are still running. Well 1 is - the other is about to throw a rod thanks to me getting a little too wild on my mild speed build from last year. I will be trying to resurrect that motor soon, as the 16.5 will be sent off to G-Team as a core for one of their rebuilds with modded parts.

Anyway, rambling aside - glad you got it hammered out.

sbspence wrote:

Sorry guys! Something I did Doug? I was posting from my Blackberry playbook...??

Your text was crazy tiny. I just removed the size tags and it want to normal. Youre all good.

Okay guys sorry to raise the dead post here but...will try.  

Is the 16.5 Ohv a decent engine? There are SO many different engine types its difficult find the exact one in searches!

I figured out the hard starting with the VERY easily adjusted valve assembly. Now it doesn't want to idle well. It runs full bore just fine it just wants to slow down and die after a few seconds at low idle. It was supposedly tuned up before I bought it but I've not checked everything out. It seems to be a carb issue to me. These carbs adjustable? I'm going to throw in a new plug and filter and change the oil just because I'm not sure of the history.

I guess i'm looking for tips and tricks for this particular engine and tractor. I don't think it's a candidate for a building up because it has a hydro style transfer that I'm sure wouldn't hold up long when modified. Just looking to tinker and make it a sweet running lawn mower.  
THANKS!
Spence

you can use a hydro. i did no problems. you just cant make them as fast. i hit 12 mph tops and could climb a 30 degree slope if not more going full speed.

Time to revive this thread guys! It's like a zombie it lives, it dies, it lives...AAARGH!

Okay I give I thought I had it sorted out but the problem is rearing it's ugly head again and again. To recap what I've tried.
Hard staring barely wants to turn over seems to be more noticeable when cold. It appeared to be exactly like the the OHVs I saw on youtube that simply needed the valves adjusted.
I've adjusted the valves to .04 and .03
I tried turning over without plug in starter seems fine
I replaced the battery/cleaned connections and have surface charged both old and new batteries. It'll usually start if it's surface charged leading me to believe, that the starting system is trying to overcome some kind of resistance? Where should I look next?

PS: on an aside when I rebuilt the deck I noticed that one of my front mounting brackets for the deck (near front axle) is badly bent are these replaceable? I couldn't get it to bend back with my tools.. again it's an early to mid 2000s Craftsman LT1000 16.5OHV Briggs, 42" in deck, hydro trans...sorry but model# sticker is worn off.

Spence<><

None of your belts are enguaging, even slightly? Your starter much need to be taken apart and serviced too.

No it doesn't act like a belt that is engaged and all the pulleys seems to moving freely the deck IS harder to engage than it was but I was attributing that to the fact that I have a new belt installed. Could it be a selenoid?

While your valve clearances are a little on the tight side (especially your exhaust) this clearly isn't the problem. Spec for your engine is 0.003"-0.005" In and 0.005"=0.007" Ex. Assuming you listed them in order, In, Ex, your exhaust is too tight.

When you said you have gone and cleaned all your electrical connections, I encourage you to do it again, making doubly sure. Pay particular attention to the main ground, going from the battery to the frame. Not only must the connections be mechanically sound, they must be electrically sound. This means that the terminations and attachment points are clean and corrosion free. In the case of the chassis ground, clean all rust and paint off the spot where the eyelet bolts on, and apply a thin film of dielectric grease or even Vaseline before bolting it down again.

Failing all that, your starter could be in need of some help. The bushings or bearings could be dragging (lubricate) or one or more brushes could be worn. In addition, a brush could be hanging in it's bore without sufficient spring pressure to hold it to the commutator.

like red said, make sure no belts are engaging, make sure your oil isnt too super thick. you MIGHT need new battery cables if there is too much resistance. grab your volt meter and check the ohms... i dont know the acceptable range off the top of my head

Thanks Doc! That's the kind of detail I was looking for! I'll try that tomorrow.

This may not be recommended by some, but it used to be how i starter my mower.
Take a set of jumper cables, hook it up to your battery, be careful no to let them touch, turn key to on, then ground the negative on your oil spout, or somewhere else safe on the motor block, then touch the positive end on your starter nut (where your hot run into the starter).. If the engine starts, or cranks as if it should start, then the starters not your problem. Could be weak spark, low compression (prob not), What octane fuel are you running in this? Also, is it stock timing, both flywheel and cam?

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

This may not be recommended by some, but it used to be how i starter my mower.
Take a set of jumper cables, hook it up to your battery, be careful no to let them touch, turn key to on, then ground the negative on your oil spout, or somewhere else safe on the motor block, then touch the positive end on your starter nut (where your hot run into the starter).. If the engine starts, or cranks as if it should start, then the starters not your problem. Could be weak spark, low compression (prob not), What octane fuel are you running in this? Also, is it stock timing, both flywheel and cam?

I have used that test method too. It has a lot of danger potential though. Here's a safer way: Leave the + jumper cable clamped on that starter lug, and touch the - clamp to a metal surface to crank.

Weak spark, low compression, and fuel octane rating will NOT be contributing factors, here.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

This may not be recommended by some, but it used to be how i starter my mower.
Take a set of jumper cables, hook it up to your battery, be careful no to let them touch, turn key to on, then ground the negative on your oil spout, or somewhere else safe on the motor block, then touch the positive end on your starter nut (where your hot run into the starter).. If the engine starts, or cranks as if it should start, then the starters not your problem. Could be weak spark, low compression (prob not), What octane fuel are you running in this? Also, is it stock timing, both flywheel and cam?

I have used that test method too. It has a lot of danger potential though. Here's a safer way: Leave the + jumper cable clamped on that starter lug, and touch the - clamp to a metal surface to crank.

Weak spark, low compression, and fuel octane rating will NOT be contributing factors, here.

Why wouldn't weak spark be one? I had a go kart that only ran full throttle.. replaced magneto and plug and she ran again.. It could be not ignite the fuel fully and sending the compression (flame, pressure, burn, whatever you prefer) out of the exhaust by the time its useful for the motor.. Same thing with the fuel octane.. If you run super high octane, (race gas) in a stock motor, you won't be getting a good clean burn unless carb and valve work has been done. Low compression is the only questionable one I see here. If all else fails, check it, compression can do weird things to engines, depending on which way.. Could even be too high compression, at low idle, it doesn't have enough power to push the compression and it will stall. Does the engine have a bog? The 14.5 in the death machine, would maintain 400-500 rpm all day.. (true reading off my tach) RPM varied on weather, and the engine heat.

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Why wouldn't weak spark be one? I had a go kart that only ran full throttle.. replaced magneto and plug and she ran again.. It could be not ignite the fuel fully and sending the compression (flame, pressure, burn, whatever you prefer) out of the exhaust by the time its useful for the motor.. Same thing with the fuel octane.. If you run super high octane, (race gas) in a stock motor, you won't be getting a good clean burn unless carb and valve work has been done. Low compression is the only questionable one I see here. If all else fails, check it, compression can do weird things to engines, depending on which way.. Could even be too high compression, at low idle, it doesn't have enough power to push the compression and it will stall. Does the engine have a bog? The 14.5 in the death machine, would maintain 400-500 rpm all day.. (true reading off my tach) RPM varied on weather, and the engine heat.

Because the post I quote below is what I am replying to- and none of it relates to weak spark, compression, or fuel.

sbspence wrote:

Time to revive this thread guys! It's like a zombie it lives, it dies, it lives...AAARGH!

Okay I give I thought I had it sorted out but the problem is rearing it's ugly head again and again. To recap what I've tried.
Hard staring barely wants to turn over seems to be more noticeable when cold. It appeared to be exactly like the the OHVs I saw on youtube that simply needed the valves adjusted.
I've adjusted the valves to .04 and .03
I tried turning over without plug in starter seems fine
I replaced the battery/cleaned connections and have surface charged both old and new batteries. It'll usually start if it's surface charged leading me to believe, that the starting system is trying to overcome some kind of resistance? Where should I look next?

Spence<><