LawnBoy UTLTV aka MULE

Bwahahahaha!

Awww, I'll bet she felt all abandoned there, for a minute!   

And I'll bet you felt  when you realized it had fallen, and you looked back!

oh i was wondering if i could use it on my peerless 700 if it was larger than the original.

1997 Murray wrote:

oh i was wondering if i could use it on my peerless 700 if it was larger than the original.

I have not directly compared them, but I'm betting they are identical. There's a lot of interchangeability between gearboxes, saved money for the company.

Angchor wrote:

Bwahahahaha!

Awww, I'll bet she felt all abandoned there, for a minute!   

And I'll bet you felt  when you realized it had fallen, and you looked back!

Yeah- I caught it leaving out of the corner of my eye, but the hand wasn't fast enough. Meanwhile:

Set up some goal posts and get a game going!  Looks like a lot of fun.  Nice two-wheeling too!   

I think you parked your boat a little far up on shore. No anchor needed up there I hope.    

T-Dub13 wrote:

Set up some goal posts and get a game going!  Looks like a lot of fun.  Nice two-wheeling too!   

I think you parked your boat a little far up on shore.  No anchor needed up there I hope.    

Yeah- not my boat. Shared property, 'nuff said!

We were thinking about setting up a goal. When we were doing it before, we sorta had a game going. Barrel Soccer, or something...

Doc Sprocket wrote:

T-Dub13 wrote:

Set up some goal posts and get a game going!  Looks like a lot of fun.  Nice two-wheeling too!

We were thinking about setting up a goal. When we were doing it before, we sorta had a game going. Barrel Soccer, or something...

Get a croquet racket and ball! Drive it through goals at opposite ends. Call it tractor polo!

We actually bought a big rubber ball (maybe 24") a couple years ago and did this with our go karts, but the ball didn't live very long.

Yeah, I was thinking like a giant yoga ball. but imagine if you ran it over! It could get a tractor airborne!     

I'm talking about hitting a croquet ball with rackets, or shortened hockey sticks, while riding.

Not hitting a ball with the machine.

It would be like polo but with tractors instead of horses. Or maybe more technically correct, tractor hockey. (With a ball instead of a puck.)

Angchor wrote:

I'm talking about hitting a croquet ball with rackets, or shortened hockey sticks, while riding.

Not hitting a ball with the machine.

It would be like polo but with tractors instead of horses. Or maybe more technically correct, tractor hockey. (With a ball instead of a puck.)

No, I got what you're saying. I'm talking about hitting the ball with the machine like they were doing in the video, just using a ball instead. But it couldn't be a soft ball like a yoga ball or it would go under the bumper and flip the machine.   

have you done anything new to this doc

hi doc great built i like the idea with the compressor im sure it would be very handy on my tractor, but i was just wondering what is the size of the bore for the input pulley of the transaxle ? (the peerless 920)

Thank you. Transaxle pulley bore is 5/8", keyed.

Thanks doc cant wait to see what you gonna do with mule !

Hey Doc, Are you running two or four shift fingers? My 920 is skipping a lot in 1st and 5th. I haven't gotten into it yet, but assuming that the fingers are rounded off and maybe the inside keyways in the gears are damaged... I bought a set of two fingers to replace. Just wondering. Hope all's well!   

4 shift keys. But I may conduct an experiment sometime in the future. Despite the logical conclusion (4 keys being better than 2) I have heard reports of 2 keys outperforming and lasting longer than 4. Dunno. Food for thought. In a perfect world, 4 keys is better. Maybe in reality, twice the engagement means twice the DIFFICULTY in engagement (no synchro), so... ?

Yeah, I "heard" 2 is better than 4. But with a locked diff, I'm wondering about 4 now. Lots of torque being transmitted!   

So far, no failures (knock on wood).

I haven't done anything by ways of mods lately, just using it for it's intended purposes (go figure). But I still have some tweaking to do. I can't get into 6th gear, so I need to make a linkage adjustment, and I have bugger all for brakes, either. Again, linkage. I'm strongly leaning towards doing away with the brake/clutch combined thing, and putting the brakes on a separate pedal. I like what the Mowrons have done with this, likely doing similar.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

So far, no failures (knock on wood).

I haven't done anything by ways of mods lately, just using it for it's intended purposes (go figure). But I still have some tweaking to do. I can't get into 6th gear, so I need to make a linkage adjustment, and I have bugger all for brakes, either. Again, linkage. I'm strongly leaning towards doing away with the brake/clutch combined thing, and putting the brakes on a separate pedal. I like what the Mowrons have done with this, likely doing similar.

I really really like the concept of having the brakes on a separate pedal.

If you are like me and loathe to put a bunch of money into a whole new brake setup... And you understand that the factory brakes actually work pretty good, if you aren't racing... Then it makes sense to put them on a separate pedal, which means you have positive braking that has nothing to do with anything else.

You push the brake pedal, the brakes are activated. Period. And like I said, if you separate them out, and check out how well they work as a separate function, you may be surprised.

I am glad I have taken the ariens all the way down to the frame. Also glad that I found out that I can swap the clutch pedal from the right, back over to the left, where I like it. And it looks like putting in linkage to do a completely separate pedal for the brake is probably feasible to do before I actually start getting things back onto the frame.

Now you have me inspired again. I am off to research what the mowrons have done!

Yep- mostly. For stock or near stock speeds, the factory brakes aren't bad. Anything faster, is another story.

After the last transaxle met God, I took the opportunity to install a mechanical go kart caliper and a 6" rotor. Initial test runs had showed the ability to lock those Carlisles up at full bore. Bueno.

Since re-arranging and reinforcing the rearend, I've had some issues with the linkages. This is what is prompting me to rework them.

And rework them, I did...

Having had enough of the whole brake/clutch thing, I scalped a brake pedal from a parts ATV, and scabbed it on. Ran a link rod back to the caliper, and boom- brake pedal.



I'd like to thank Stretch and TRB for the pedal placement. I never would have thought to put it behind the throttle, but it works!

I also got rid of the lawn tractor battery. I roasted another one, winching. ENOUGH! Time for a 1000CA car battery!

There she is, bolted all snugly in the trunk.

And here's more detail on the whole thing, and a cool wheelie, too!

Good idea doc but won't that ignite your starter? Or just make for better cold starts? :p

Moose wrote:

Good idea doc but won't that ignite your starter? Or just make for better cold starts? :p

Dood... What?

That's like 1000 amps vs 300 it would normally use?

You gotta remember a basic thing here- a battery does not "deliver" current- it makes it available. An electrical device will draw what it needs. I could hook up 12 of these batteries in parallel- for a total of 12 THOUSAND avaliable crank amps- and NOT burn up the starter.