Torgo's Sears Offroad Tractor.

Here is my latest Sears SS build.  Picked up an engineless SS16 for $50.  Am installing a 14hp OHV Kohler I have.  

This is what I started with.



Here is where I am at now.

I had an old ST10 Sears that I used the grill and hood from.  Had to change the hinge points but it fits well.

6" Pulley on the engine, stock 7" on the 633A transaxle.  Transaxle has all new seals and is locked.  Used 25" tires from FB Market place.  New 20" fronts.  Reinforced the front spindles, and welded on steering stops.
New brake pad material fixed the brakes.





Working on new seat mount,  built gas tank mount under the hood.

Electrical is next.

Plan is to use it to clear a trail around about 300 acres of land I own along the fence rows and trees.  Maybe someday I will hold a rally.

I would call it "FENCE ROW ENDURO"

Should I paint it or leave it as is????

Lot of plain tractors around, I’m guilty of that myself, too busy riding them to paint. Always cool seeing a clean new paint scheme.

What are those rear tires? Sedonas or duros or something?

They are Sedona Coyote 25x12-12 I got off FB Market Place. Got 4 for $100

Those coyotes are some impressive tires! They don’t look super aggressive but they will surprise the heck out of you with where they will go. @Hot Lap had them on his hydro wheel horse Ghost for a while and those things were crazy good, probably because of how soft they are. Grab rocks and roots and stuff like nothing!

torgo wrote:

Should I paint it or leave it as is????

That’s up to you, but remember: they’re only original once.

After not having internet for 2 weeks (I hate CenturyLink) and having a phone with a bad camera, I guess it gave me time to work on the tractor.

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Got it up and running enough to drive around the yard and do a speed test.

I got 12mph with stock rear pulley (7") on welded 633A transaxle and 6-3/4" on the engine.  So almost 1:1 for now.  

Engine is a Kohler 13hp from a newer Cub Cadet I got from a guy at work.  I had no idea how it would run so I just took his word for it.  

I put the recommended engine oil in the transaxle but it doesn't sound good.  Planning on switching it out to gear oil an see if the noise level decreases.  

Need to work on the exhaust, grill, foot throttle, stronger clutch spring and some better belt guides.  

Plan on LED lighting, and really loud horn.  

I think the ST10 hood and grill fit on the old SS16 pretty well.




I also need front and rear bumpers and probably some nerf bars/tree kickers.

These transaxles will have a whine to them even in the best of conditions. As long as it doesn’t sound kinda growly in there it’s alright. Remember these trans take like 5qt of oil too.

Yes that is what I read, but after taking it completely apart and completely cleaning it out I was only able to get about 4 quarts back in.  I assume you only fill to the level of the fill plug or do I need to tip the tractor on its side to get the extra quart in?

I’ve tipped the tractor on its side before to get some extra in, I didn’t actually keep track of how much I put in. I usually prefer to fill through the shifter hole, but not sure how easy that would be on a Sears. Have done it on a craftsman with a 633 before but I think they’re a bit easier to work with.

The craftsman ayp variants called for 4qts,  The older actual 633a called for 5qt.  The older were heavily used for ground engaging equipment like plows, harrows, etc. in low gear for extended time.  I wonder if the 5th qt was to help cover the gears and bearings for the slower more torque jobs?  In our "Faster" mud mower applications.  I don't see where only 4 would be bad as the oil will be slung all over the place inside.  Hmm....  Just food for thought.

If they are ran low at high speeds the reverse gear will lock up on the shaft and lock the whole transaxle solid. I do know that much. The guys that get serious with 633s will have the reverse gear bored for a needle bearing.

Good info!

That may be what I am feeling.  Seems that when I run in the high range at 12mph; every now and then if feels as if something locking up or dragging.  

I plan on switching to 75-90w gear oil, will that help?  

Thx

I really doubt yours is trying to lock up. I’d make sure your brake isn’t dragging or something. Most of the guys I know run the cheapest Walmart motor oil they can find.

Fun fact, 30wt motor oil is pretty close to 85wt gear oil in terms of viscosity. They do some funny stuff in the naming conventions. Different gear oils also have different antiwear additives, which I believe is the difference between the GL classifications, like GL-4 and GL-5 which are common today.

I don't know the details, but I once read that gear oil has sulfur or something like that can break down brass bushings over time?

Yeah, something like the sulfur forms ionic bonds with all surfaces, sort of flaking off when it is pressed against another gear, preventing wear from “micro welding” at the line of contact. Problem is the weaker “yellow metals” will flake off with the sulfur and slowly break down. This is more of a problem found with synchros in older transmissions, like the W56 in my Toyota, where you’re advised to use a GL-4 rather than a GL-5, as it has less of that sulfur additive. I don’t think it matters here though. If it’s kind of slick the trans won’t care so long as everything that needs oil is getting it.

Yeah, I need to check my brake.  I installed new lining on the brake band and now I wonder if I just need to make some adjustments.

thx

torgo wrote:

Yeah, I need to check my brake.  I installed new lining on the brake band and now I wonder if I just need to make some adjustments.

thx

LOL, be prepared. Sometimes after reline they like to stop on a dime.

Worked on the battery hold down and the foot throttle set up last night.

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I mounted an accessory fuse box I can use for my lights and horn an other  future electrical loads.

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Sears Update:

I installed a 1/2"x84" belt and it helped the clutch engagement feel,  I also worked on a new belt guide for the crank pulley.

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I forgot to take a picture, but I added an idler pulley on the drive side of the belt underneath.  It was rubbing on my clutch linkage rod.  I do need to add a belt guide to that pulley as it jumped off and was wearing the side of my new belt.


I ended up moving my foot throttle further out as it was hard to get my fat foot on it when driving.  I also added an extra return spring to help the foot throttle snap back nicely.

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I got my led lights and kill switch yesterday and will work on that this week.  

I also need to get a muffler installed.  Really too loud and it belches fire out the exhaust on decel.  A little worried about starting a fire out in the fields.


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The cable over the exhaust pipe is my now unused hand throttle cable.  I want to figure out how to hook it back up and have both the foot and hand throttle options.

Very nice!  It's coming along very well!

Can't really tell in the pictures, but is changing the oil filter going to be an issue?

It shouldn't be. The front screen is the original Sears mesh and is held in by a spring.  I am planning on just removing it and that opens up the entire front end and allows access to the oil filter.

I will see if I can get a couple pictures with it removed.

thx

You can kinda see in this picture the oil filter is accessible when the screen is removed.

I'm finishing up some items on the Sears.

Kill Switch:


Engine belt guide:


Exhaust and Muffler:


I added some LED lighting:

I like that orientation of the tether kill switch. Lot better than in the face of the dash like most people do. Belt guides look good. Hope you’ve got whatever ate that belt taken care of, i guess that was your clutch linkage like you mentioned. I see the taper lock pulley, that’s some real fancy stuff! Love it.