Pull Start on a Cub Cadet LT1040 CVT?

Hello Good People,

After reading several threads and watching videos online I decided to use an older pulley as an alternative to getting the lawn tractor up and running. I huffed and puffed and ended in a puddle of sweat.

Are there any of you out there with a pull start setup on your tractors?
My engine is a Kohler Courage SV540 - Four-stroke, air-cooled.

Has anyone successfully adapted a pull cord setup to their rig when the pulley setup just was not enough?

T.I.A.

I haven't done it on a Kohler but have been able to do it with my Briggs and Stratton by buying a full pull start assembly including the starter cup as seen here.
https://www.atltf.com/t6779p31-old-briggs-11hp-refresh

There is a Kohler kit that's comparable, maybe not listed specifically for your motor but could perhaps work, you'll need to dig deep and do that research yourself but here's the link and a picture.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23019

I don't know what kind of resources you have around you but if I were in your shoes I'd go to a salvage yard/scrap yard/small engine hoarder that deals in lawn mower and tractors armed with pictures and measurements of my setup and start comparing to any Kohler with a pullstart I can find that looks close.  

Now I'll ask what size of pulley you used? Pull starting a twin is not going to be very fun as it is, especially with a small pulley. The larger the pulley the easier it will be.

That said, I'm probably going to the salvage yard near me tomorrow and if I see any Kohlers with pull starts I'll get pics, measurements and models to try and help ya out.

I hope this is somewhat helpful!

Hey Brianator!
Huge thanks for the response and feedback.

Very nice rig you have there.

At first I was using a Briggs and Stratton 591606 Rewind Starter Assembly but just couldn't get it going. Thought the pull rope might have been too long so shortened it to 2.5ft. Still no go. Next I tried using a 7inch pulley. This continued to make for an uninteresting upper body workout as I looked at the tractors new working starter and said "wtf am I doing to myself". I believe having this pull start setup will be a win once its installed and working and would be the end of worrying about starter / battery / solenoid.

Your pull start setup looks so much beefier than the Briggs and Stratton 591606 Rewind Starter Assembly.

Currently I do not have access to any scrapyards at the moment.
I say a video where an old school water pump pulley was used but was concerned it would block air flow.

Do you recall your pull start setup? Your pull cord handle looks massive.

Thanks

Np at all and thanks for the compliment! I hope to at least having it running again soon but have too many projects on the go at the same time (that's normal for me!)

It's a Briggs & Stratton 693900 (knock off) and not big at all (5") same as you'd see on any old 7-8hp flathead, the 591606 looks much newer as you'd see on OHV models. My pullstart is for backup purposes and to save using the starter when the motor is already warm (should fire off in one pull).

If you're having THAT hard of a time get it started it sounds like your having carburetor/pump issues or valves out of adjustments or possibly the timing is off? Maybe weak/no spark? You should be able to at least see a sign of life within 2-3 pulls if you've splashed a little fuel in the carb.

If you want to get into all that we're here to help!

I will check the specs for everything you mentioned.

The battery is fully charged and the starter is new and it fires right up via the electric ignition. Will have to test the pull start on a warm engine.

What would you suggest is the best pull rope length? The recoil unit came with a rope long enough for giant.

What size pulley would you suggest for future reference?

The older I get the more simple of a setup I want, I just want it to start and function. My next project is to remove all the safety switches as this rig is used as a hauler. Its been a learning experience.

Thanks.

I feel like a jerk asking this but... you did have the key switch to the run/on position when attempting the pull start right? Not only does "off" engage the kill function for the coil(s) but also according to the service manual your carburetor has a fuel shut off solenoid (bottom of fuel bowl) that needs power to open and allow fuel into the carb. No disrespect intended in asking I'm just trying to be thorough, we all have those "doh!" moments! Lol.

***Edit***Another issue will be the safety interlock switches on your tractor that must be engaged for the ignition to be active... I'll bet dollar to donuts that's why I didn't start.... get a helper, have them depress the brake/clutch while sitting in the seat with the key on and I bet I will fire off the pullstart!

I'd say pull cord length is best left as long as possible without causing interference inside or past the grooves in the recoil, that way if it ever breaks there's hopefully enough to make it work even if it is short now! I'd say minimum length would be your "full pull" arms length plus a little extra. If your talking about a notched pulley as a pull start then the number of wraps is more important than length because you NEED that rope to disengae ASAP so it doesn't get caught up when the motor fires. Mine is almost 6 feet long but I use it on a 9" booster fan/pulley and I've used it on a 3" also but I only put 2.5-3 wraps on a pulley for safety. They always make me nervous so I always proceed with caution and tend to sidestep away as I'm pulling!

As for the pulley, I think if you had at least 1.5 - 2" of unshrouded flywheel exposed it should draw enough air freely, the fan shrouds aren't sealed from what I've ever seen so it will draw air from around it I'm sure,  I've never done it but would feel comfortable testing that theory myself.

These are only my opinions though, some based on experience and others on theory so hopefully someone else can add their 2c also?!

I appreciate the responses, and after my first few pulls realized the key needed to be in the run / on position.

Thanks for feedback as this gives me a real world baseline to work with since I have not been able to get anything working yet. LOL

I will pick up another recoil string and this time try the full length when the engine is warm. I got the logic backward, I should have a long cord when using the recoil setup, and a shorter cord when attempting the pulley setup, The you-tube videos made this look easy.

Thanks again

Please see my edit regarding the saftey interlock switches just under the key thing, I realized it's probably the main issue and I bet I was adding it while you were reading! Lol

I had propped a small hydraulic jack stand onto the brake pedal.

After that workout I would loved a couple glazed donuts to calm my nerves.

Thanks again for the edit, your time and energy is much appreciated. I still need experience like you because the next question after the pull start is resolved is how than would I wire up a push button start and say good bye to the key deal. Gotta keep it simple enough first.

Np, hit the @ symbol in one of my posts with your message and I'll be there as soon as I'm able!  The @ will send me alert just like this will to you @CuberCadet!

Doing away with the key completey probably won't be "cut and dry" on your machine as I bet like most newer machines it's tied into several systems including the interlock switches and probably has 6-8 wires.  My stepdad wanted me to rewire his whole tractor to get rid of the interlock system because of intermittent starting issues that lead to a complete no start plus the blades disengage when it is in reverse and he wanted to be able to mow in reverse also... when I saw the amount of wiring I would've had to mess with I said no way I'm spending a full day on this and taped up every interlock switch with Electrical tape! It hasn't had a starting issue since and mows in reverse as requested but it only took me an hour! Lol.

Your push button is possible if you really want it and may not be terribly complicated to do but I'll need you to post pictures of your tractor and engines model and serial number tags so I can download the manuals and see full wiring diagrams to come up with a plan.

Much appreciated!

Where will the @ symbol be located?

The green button on the top right corner beside the "thumbs up" "thanks" "edit" "delete" and "report", on the far left. "thanks" is now red as visible to you only because you thanked me in a post, you can only give thanks once per thread that you have created.i thank you for giving me thanks! Lol

Nice!
Thanks again.

Making a pull start from a pulley shouldn't be too hard. Just make sure the notch that holds the knot is angled right so the rope doesn't rip out of your hand. The trick to using it is to spin the motor by hand till it starts the compression stroke. Then start pulling with the rope. The momentum after the compression stroke will keep it spinning through the next compression stroke for it to fire off. The smaller motors got a compression release for easy starting, but the bigger motors don't because of them having an electric starter.

prancstaman wrote:

Making a pull start from a pulley shouldn't be too hard. Just make sure the notch that holds the knot is angled right so the rope doesn't rip out of your hand. The trick to using it is to spin the motor by hand till it starts the compression stroke. Then start pulling with the rope. The momentum after the compression stroke will keep it spinning through the next compression stroke for it to fire off. The smaller motors got a compression release for easy starting, but the bigger motors don't because of them having an electric starter.

Just one more thing, you need to make sure the rope isn't too long, just make sure you can pull it out all the way, if it's too short (this happened to me) the cord will rip out of your hands and start shredding your tractor...

TechnoChicken wrote:

prancstaman wrote:

Making a pull start from a pulley shouldn't be too hard. Just make sure the notch that holds the knot is angled right so the rope doesn't rip out of your hand. The trick to using it is to spin the motor by hand till it starts the compression stroke. Then start pulling with the rope. The momentum after the compression stroke will keep it spinning through the next compression stroke for it to fire off. The smaller motors got a compression release for easy starting, but the bigger motors don't because of them having an electric starter.

Just one more thing, you need to make sure the rope isn't too long, just make sure you can pull it out all the way, if it's too short (this happened to me) the cord will rip out of your hands and start shredding your tractor...

I use 2 full wraps around. Gives you plenty of momentum to get it running.