Wheel Horse 210-5 mud mower

"The idle fuel mixture screw, when present, is fitted with a limiter cap to prevent overly rich or lean adjustments."

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Intek Single Cylinder OHV Nikki Carb (outdoorpowerinfo.com)

Thats actuallly what I thought that was but I wasn't sure

@brianator You mentioned you knew of a scrapyard that dealt in lawn tractors, where about is that?
I just wanted to know if it was in Barrie or what was going on there.

I found a guy who has a whole bunch of this stuff but he's almost in Ottawa, which is wayyyy too far
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-lawnmower-leaf-blower/ottawa/used-tractors/1597391236?cid=86f41ddf-4e96-42b5-8242-acd8f846caf6

Wow that place looks awesome! But too far for me too! Lol. The one I was telling you about is a little past Barrie just before Midland, there's several tractors, a bunch of tires and a school bus full of parts.

Are you after something in specific?

I've heard of Midland. I'm looking for a hood and possibly a fuel tank for an STX 38, also would like to know where to get parts for these things, next time your drop by can you grab a pic?

I messaged the guy, asked him if he had a tank or hood for an STX 38, he said no hood but he'll sell me a tank for 75 bucks
I told him this:
You want 75 bucks for a plastic gas tank? I could literally buy one from the dealer for 50

I would say he's running rippoff village over there

WOW i wouldnt pay the guy 25 bucks

I would have a hard time paying 75 for the whole tractor!

So I think I might have a bad tranny, if anybody knows more about this than I do,
it is entirely possible that it is fine, or I could have a destroyed tranny.

So basically when I got I the tractor the tranny ( Peerless 930 ) was locked up (when you tried to push it forward the wheels would turn opposite each other.) , and dragging it on and off trailers was a pain. I thought nothing of it, now when it is in neutralis, it makes a loud whining noise with the clutch up, and when I took the belt off and spun it by hand it has tight spots every 5 degrees or so,
I'm thinking the input gear might be shredded or something like that, I really don't know.

To add to all of that, I have put upwards of 10 hrs on this transaxle and now I hate myself ...
It happens sometimes, unless you're me... then it happens all the time.

if it moves without chugging and it shifts hard it could be water in the trans also if you spin the trans by hand in high gear with the back tires off the ground it will tell you if you have a bad trans

It might be water in the tranny, does anyone know if these are grease or oil or how to change it?

It has grease (Bentonite) and the only way to get it in is by opening it up which, you should do regardless to find out what's up in there, hopefully it's something minor like blown input bearings but it sounds like it was hurting to begin with. While it's apart you can add a fill plug (for grease/oil) and a grease zerk for the input shaft so you can grease the bearings every now and again to extend their life. Adding a vent is highly recommended also.

As for replacing the grease, you can use basically any good grease, gear oil or a combination of the 2 to make a "slurry" which is in fact your best bet as long a you're not trying to hit 40mph! Lol. You wouldn't really want to go with strait gear oil as it will end up leaking out unless you spend alot of time sealing up the bushings and axles.

Do you think it will be ok to put a few more miles on it or should that be done right away?

*I edited and added to my above post*

Depends on if you want to save it or not? Any time it spends turning is furthering the damage.  If you're planning on replacing instead of repairing then drive it until it blows up and post pics of that in the fail thread! Lol

https://www.atltf.com/t4522-fail-thread

I’d suggest getting a new tranny and swapping em out. If the old one is rebuildable then you can just sell it and make back your money. Otherwise you have spare parts that way. I don’t think gear sets for these are terribly expensive. I’m toying with the idea of rebuilding mine since it clicks if you push it when it’s in gear (which might be the hydro cycling but idk) and a gear set for my massive peerless 2500 is $50 used. So a dime a dozen 930 is probably about the same

I think what was wrong with the tranny is I originally tried to use a tie rod splitter to remove the pulley and it deformed the tranny case when I did that so the gear in the tranny might have been sitting too low or something like that, I got the pulley tightened so that it holds the shaft up and it appears to have fixed it?

I also fixed the brakes yesterday, they had that typical seized piston. I have no idea what people are complaining about, these brakes lock the wheels right up, however I fixed them, adjusted them and then went for a drive and immediately disabled them, they need a seperate pedal for sure

TechnoChicken wrote:

I also fixed the brakes yesterday, they had that typical seized piston. I have no idea what people are complaining about, these brakes lock the wheels right up, however I fixed them, adjusted them and then went for a drive and immediately disabled them, they need a seperate pedal for sure

It’s not that those brakes can’t lock up the wheels, it’s just they can’t consistently do it. You might get a couple good stops before they quit.

Of course for me oil always gets in them and immediately ends their existence so who knows… maybe they’d last a little longer, maybe not. Either way they’re gonna die sooner than an actual brake.

Not saying don’t use them, but it’d be safer not to. I only put them on Ole Blue because I thought I was going to an offroad park and just wanted to pass any sort of inspection lol. Use them at your own risk.

if i weld my diff and do a diff brace ill put some disc brakes on mine until then im not, so id suggest the same @technochicken

The clutch and brake should both have plenty of adjustment to play with and really get them dialed in so you can disengage the clutch without the brake engaging and making it so you almost have to over extend the pedal to engage the brake

The way my clutch is is that you have to punch it all the way to the floor, the clutch and brake are reversed anyway so when I go to switch them around I'll deal with that. I haven't needed the brakes before, it just might be nice to have them.

What I might do is put an E-brake on the column kinda like the craftsman deck lift levers...

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it

Also when I pull the tranny at some point in the future I will lock the trans, I am kinda liking the doc locker 2.0, not because I can't weld but just that I looks way stronger and very permanent

Ripped her around pulling the GT for about 3 hrs again she only broke down once, the front wheel fell off but a new cotter pin and we were back to rippin!

These turf tires are TERRIBLE in the snow, even in about 6 inches you have to drive in a circle to mark a track, with someone pushing you about 50% of the time and then you do about 4 laps around that circle to pack the snow in and then you can pull the GT. I guess I have to keep looking for tires...

You can cut some of the lugs off your turfs to create a pattern and get better traction, there's a few posts around here outlining it and some different patterns. One guy did it with nothing more than a sharp chisel, no heating it or anything!

I might try that, can you post a link