Wheel Horse 210-5 mud mower

Okay, I thought the thumbs up at the top of the post and the like button were the same thing...

the bottom one is a new feature from the host. Not sure it is linked.

It's not the like system and the rep system are different...

So does anyone know if low steering wheel travel (like on a go-kart) is better than high steering wheel travel like on a car or if low wheel travel will be terrible at 60-80 km/h (Which is what i'm hoping a 18hp/6spd will go?)

I don't think you would want it too twitchy.  Also, you will probably want to upgrade to ball bearing or roller bearing on the front.  Also maybe lock the front axle in place so you do not get the death wobble.

I will probably do that, would drilling some holes on either side of the bracket through the axel work?

Yeah that should work.  @Doc Sprocket did something like that for Fugazi. 

Check out the video around the 4:40 mark.

How do people put those MTD snowblower tires on their tractors?

Buy them for the size of you rim and either install them yourself or have a tire shop do it.

No, I was asking if they use the stock rims that came on the snowblower or not...

Some people do use the stock rim of the snowblower if the wheel bore is the same.  A lot of times the center has to be trimmed down to fit the spindle.  If not done right by not adding a way to grease it, it will wear out the spindle axle.  Most of the time the tire is purchased and put on the stock rim of the tractor.

I used the snowblower wheels. I cut the hub to the proper width and honed out the center hole with sandpaper flap wheels to fit flanged bronze bushings on each side. I will be adding grease fittings too.

Ok, I was just wondering if they put the tire on the bare metal of the spindle

Nevadablue wrote:

I used the snowblower wheels. I cut the hub to the proper width and honed out the center hole with sandpaper flap wheels to fit flanged bronze bushings on each side. I will be adding grease fittings too.

I did the same thing with the wheel on the front of my little Ford but I used rims with a big bore so the bushings fit in with out much of a fight. Works well!

It's definitely best to mount new tires on your existing wheels and by doing so you very well may be able to install sealed ball bearings instead of using bushings, I scored some at Princess Auto for only $5 each!

Haven't put any updates on this thing for a week or so, i've done quite a bit, including fixing the electric start and more stuff.

So basically what happened is I loaned this rig to my brother for a day, but he couldn't find the pullcord (I have one of the ones that you notch a pulley and wrap the cord) so he decided to make his own, but made it way too long. It started find quite a few times for him but at some point he didn't pull it hard enough and it caught the pulley and turned into a weedeater, completely ate the dry rotted plastic fuel tank and shredded the dipstick and tube. At that point I decided that the pull start was not safe for long term use and went and pulled a flywheel off of a blown 17.5 briggs and it had a metal gear and the starter gear was metal as well. I have no idea how a 17.5 briggs flywheel fits on a 14hp briggs but it fit, the only problem was the key had slipped in the flywheel and put a crack in the collar but I figured it would work anyway.
So, now she has electric start, had to hack a new dipstick tube and a steel fuel tank off a rototiller but it runs so I think we should be good.

The one problem I am still having is the engine bogs down way too much and Is low on power, there is one plastic knob on the top of the card but turning it does not change anything so I think the filter might be clogged or something. If anybody knows of some other way to adjust these let me know.

Probably sounds like quite a bit of babbling but whatever...

Also I have an STX 38 with a Kohler Command 13 in it, but the jet is really messed up, and i'm going to try to swap the carb from the same Briggs 17.5 into it, can anyone tell me how terrible of an idea that is?

Can you post pics of the 14hp carb please? If the 17.5 carb is physically the same or similar, mounts and hooks up the same I don't see why it wouldn't work, a little port matching might be required to get the most out of it though. Check it out and find out!

Best thing to do is start taking things out of the equation like remove the air filter, no joy remove the fuel filter (if equipped) and put a piece of brake line or other small tube in it's place temporarily, check for kinks/pinches/leaks in the fuel line at the same time. Still running the same... check the pulse line to the fuel pump (if equipped), check/adjust valve lash, disassemble and clean the heck out of the carb... also check to see if the float has taken on fluid by means of a small hole. Check and clean your grounds. Check for vaccum leaks. Rust on the coil(s) or flywheel magnets can cause rough running as will corrosion on the coil mounts and failing spark plugs, if they're old I'd just go ahead and replace them and keep the old as spares if they weren't the problem. Have a good inspection of the old plugs as they will tell a tale so keep track of which came from what cylinder. It's all about the process of elimination, start where it's quick and easy, work your way up to the harder stuff. I've you've gone through all that and it's still the same you probably have a failing coil(s) or a fuel pump (if equipped) that needs to be replaced. 

Wait, the flywheel collar is cracked? I'd take it off, remove the starter gear and toss it in the scrap pile... it's a hazard and WILL cause serious damage if it grenades, possibly to a person. Maybe you'll get lucky and the gear will fit on your 14hp flywheel? It would be safer to teach your brother how to use the rope start properly than run a fractured flywheel!

I think I figured out the issue, the fuel tank only sits a couple inches above the carb and the line was running in a U shape so I zip tied the line up but didn't get to test it because I ran out of gas,

As for the flywheel do you think I could weld it?
(nope...)
I looked at the two gears and the metal one appears to be attached by some unseen force rather than with rivets like the plastic one

The STX 38 carb has the same mounting hole width, I was just wondering if the bigger carb would cause a problem with the air/fuel mix...

Well I guess I went way above and beyond then eh!? Lol. Unless you know how to weld cast iron... no nor would I recommend it anyhow. 

I'm not sure how they're held on I've never had to look that close! Lol. I'd imagine it's bolted/screwed from the underside though. 

Shouldn't cause an issue as I don't it's much larger internally ththan the 14hp pending they're both twins, it will cram more air and fuel in and should make a noticeable difference in power, could require a little tuning. Best thing to do is try the swap and let us know! Or maybe someone here has done it and will chime in? It's more fun just trying it though! Lol

all the motors I speak of are singles, sorry for the confusion.

I guess I forgot I can't weld cast iron...

They're both singles so it should be good! Try to get the motor running normal then do the swap, or do the swap if you still can't. Pics of the 14hp carb?

I think we are confused about what engines are what:

- B&S 14hp that is in the 210-5 this one got the new flywheel from the 17.5 B&S, and will remain in the 210-5
-B&S 17.5hp this one has a busted connecting rod and is the donor of the flywheel for the 14hp B&S and the carb for the command
-13hp Kohler Command, this one is remaining in the STX 38 and was never going to be swapped into the 210-5

Any confusion was my fault for thread jacking my own thread with the STX 38's Kohler

The ring gear may be just held on by an interference fit. The ring would be heated and dropped onto a cold flywheel. Heating the ring as quickly as possible may allow it to be knocked off the flywheel with a brass punch and hammer.

Yup I'm confused! Lol. If you're still having issues with the one please post pics of the carb so we can try to advise you.

I knew it was some unseen power
I have a oxy-acetylene torch so I will heating it up and see if that works, I might have to drill holes to bolt it on to the new flywheel though, we will see what happens

Here's a pic of a similar carb to the one that's on there, you can see the black screw that I was talking about, does anyone know what that does? :s
cratch:

"The idle fuel mixture screw, when present, is fitted with a limiter cap to prevent overly rich or lean adjustments."

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Intek Single Cylinder OHV Nikki Carb (outdoorpowerinfo.com)