[DNF][2020 Build-Off Entry] Murrraymountain's "Ole Blue" Murray

Original thread here...

Alright guys, turns out I am entering this year. No guarantee of finishing, but I'ma try. So, my original Murray (now named Red) is this year's victim:











So, the new plan for this rig is to build it like the Mountain Murray, but more reliable and with it's own feel:

-It's (obviously) getting REAL tires

-An AWESOME exhaust

-An MST 206 that will be built just like the MM's but without the flaws

-Same pulley ratio as the MM

-A heavily reinforced frame and body (something the MM doesn't have)

-A horn

-A cargo rack

-More lights

And of course the other crazy ideas that are yet to come. Anyway, what happened to the original plan for this tractor? It got passed on to the Mountain Murray. Yes, the MM is getting the "Grind Hard" treatment. So, this tractor will take the MM's current role and do it with zero flaw. I'm still collecting parts, and a welder is in the plans this mowing season. I'm excited to ride this thing again! Can't wait to see how she turns out!

Approved MightyRaze Feb 15, 2020

Welcome to the build-off.

Alrighty, made a little progress! Went to the junkyard a few weeks ago and picked up a front axle and a clutch setup. Check that off the list! Today I got the rims cleaned and ruffed up with the wire brush... Now I'm waiting on primer and paint and then I can mount the tires. Also got to start on a "why not" mod...




Yep. I'm switching gas tank and battery locations. I need some flat steel to build the battery box, and for the tank, well I just need to mount the front of it. I'll be able to do so much more once I get that welder.

Got my rims painted! Never had rims come out this good before. Gonna try and get the tires on tomorrow.

Yes, I changed it's name yet again. Don't worry, Ol' Blue is final.

ANYWAY, a LOT has happened this week. Not exactly sure where to begin. I guess we'll start with the front end...So I got the new axle in. Replaced the spindles, sanded all the rust down, added grease fittings, painted it and then greased it before reassembly...

Before:



After:



Finally sitting straight again:



Also pulled the engine and got it hooked up to the test stand:



Look at all that POWA:



Then I straightened the lights and tied the wiring up in the hood. Now I just need to weld the bolts in:



And this just worked too well on the MM, I just couldn't help it:




Much better.

Then I slapped a quick coat of paint on the frame:



Then I vacuum sealed my clock to make it waterproof:



And an update which happened about this time.

Then I fixed my steering bolts. They were worn out as you see, so I added washers and greased that area really good. They might wear out eventually, but that's why I have 2 more replacement pairs:




Replacement pairs:



Front end locker. It came out much better than the MM's. I drilled the MM's hole too big but got this one just right. I'll get the MM a new pin eventually:



And I added a grease fitting for the front end. Not sure how well it'll work, but we're gonna find out. Added one on the backside too:



Then I tore into the trans. Had to cut the pulley off. Tried pouring gasoline on the pulley, tried candle wax, nothing ever works on tranny pulleys. Ya always gotta cut 'em off. Anyway, got my input shaft out, cut the new slot, and put it back in. Put a short shifter in it, got the grease fitting and vent tube in, and got the cases painted. Came out way better than the MM's.





Then I got the grease on the inside cleaned up. Cleaned off all the gasket maker (cleaned it out of the bolt holes too):




Of course the vent tube is in the way of the new shifter. Gotta fix that today. Anyway, besides that, I just need to figure out what I'm gonna do about a locker, wheel hubs, and how to mount the hubs. Once that's done, the trans is ready to go back together and will be finished. In the meantime, it stays in its container:




I also mounted up my front tires yesterday. I was so relieved when it was done, till I did a mock up of how they'd sit:



Of course, one of them is backwards. . Gosh dangit. Now that's frustrating. Can't get them aired up either. Whatever. I'll try and fix all that today. Today is just gonna be tying up the loose odds and ends. Gonna take a break on it after that and then start working on the engine. Gotta say, lotsa progress this week!

And as it sits right now:

got a ratchet strap? that's what i usually use and it generally works for sealing the beads good enough to get it to air up, otherwise try bouncing the tire as hard as you can on the floor this will sometimes work for getting the bead on far enough to air it up, looking good so far

Thanks! Yeah I tried the ratchet strap. I'll try bouncing it I guess. Hope it works. If not I'm gonna have to try carb cleaner and a torch.

Take the valve core out and blow through the valvestem with a rubber tipped air gun, if you have one. That always helped me.

You also might try stuffing the bead with grease, that's worked for me before.

XD what's the skid mark from? Lol

LOL, I have no idea. Either the zero turn, the stamped frame, my brothers murray... I dunno. I'd put my money on the stamped frame.

Grease fitting fever! You hit up all the good spots. Impressed with the Murray articulation fitting locations. That's will make a huge difference.

Thanks! I hope so. I know it'll definitely help that side, I just hope the grease will make it's way to the other side. If not, well, I'll just have to pull the front end apart once a year to clean it up and grease it. But hopefully they work. The MM's front end is junk, so I'm hoping all the new bushings bearings and grease fittings will make all the difference.

Alright, I've been throwing a bunch of stuff in my watch list here. I need your opinion on some of this. Don't want something to come in and then realize it doesn't work. First off, the tires. These should be fine, but just so you can refer to the size, they are 20x10.00-8 super lugs.

I need hubs for the straight axle. I know this is a go kart brake hub, but how do you think it would work as a wheel hub? It's gonna get abused. Can I find a junkyard rim that has a 4 lug mount and will fit that size tire? And would that same hub work for this? I need your advice here.

It would work for a wheel hub, but it would be a weak point in your setup. If the hub didn't work with that drum, you could probably drill one out to make it fit.

Maybe you could kind a set of 8" golf kart rims which are 4 lug and mount those on 4 lug go kart hubs

MightyRaze wrote:

It would work for a wheel hub, but it would be a weak point in your setup.  If the hub didn't work with that drum, you could probably drill one out to make it fit.

I thought so. What if I welded the two pieces together? Would it still be a weak point?

Crazy_Carl wrote:

Maybe you could kind a set of 8" golf kart rims which are 4 lug and mount those on 4 lug go kart hubs

That's the plan. I have two from our golf cart, but they're 10" rims and I don't know if the mounts would line up correctly. Lot planning involved here just to get a set of hubs.... Jeeze.



What type grease are you supposed to put in starters?

This would be stronger for a wheel hub if looking for live axle ones...

https://www.bmikarts.com/4-x-4-Wheel-Hub-34-Bore_p_1654.html

Okay. Now I'm racking up 3 different watch lists...

Every last bit of money from the Yard Machine is going into this it looks like.

I'll try to update soon. I took the engine disassembly a "little bit" further than I was anticipating...

Well, when you try to do something right I guess you end up asking a lot of questions...

1) What type grease am I supposed to put in my starter?
2) Can I get my con rod turned down and run rod bearings and if so is it way too expensive?
3) Can I upgrade my dog bone/counterweight-link to something stronger?
4) Can I find junkyard 8 x 10 rims with 4 x 4 lug mounts?

Thanks in advance.

1. It's not critical, just don't get any on the commutator bars and brushes.
2. It likely wouldn't have enough material left to be strong enough.
3. Yes, I think ARC actually makes brass ones.
4. I think golf cart rims are around this size.

@Murraymountain I didn't know you already had 10" rims, that's what you want on the rear. Opens up a world of possibilities for fat cushy tires.

Sorry for the late response. I'm super busy this time of year for some reason.

Well, I meant 10" tall. They are 10" wide which is what I need, but the tires need a rim that is 8" tall. Close, but no cigar.
Gonna be pretty hard to find a pair of 8x10 4x4 lug mount rims for cheap.

Anyway, I uh, hit the starter with some PB already. Guess I'll take 'er apart and wipe 'er down. It was okay at first, but once I took it apart and cleaned it up, it stiffened up a little. I'll probably get some grease at... Well, I don't exactly know yet.

My parts cart for this thing is already pushing $400. By the time this year is over, I think I may have a total of $1000 in this machine. Jeeze!

Anyhow, as soon as I get some time (if I ever do), I'll post up an update of what's been going on.

OKAY. Like I stated before, I took the engine rebuild.... Too far.



I am COMPLETELY rebuilding it. In the red bin, one side is external parts and the other is internal.



Everything in this pile is getting sanded.



Now, the one thing I did not expect to find (especially since the disassembly was going excellent and this motor never knocked), a SCORED ROD!!!




Jeeze.... I'm gonna get the rod and crank machined.

Also, the key way on the crank got pretty banged up from my brilliant idea of sticking a 3/16" key in a 1/4" key way. I definitely recommend doing that!




And the head is getting scrapped. I have to get a new one. The cooling fins have been cut in one spot and it has a helicoil in it. So I'm gonna get another one, lap the valves, port and polish it, and I'm also replacing the aluminum push rod with the steel one.



And then I started my sanding... First cleaned up the coil...



Then the alternator...



And the flywheel. Man was that a job. The inside was just JAAAAAMMED FULL of dirt and grass. The outside was COVERED in rust just like any flywheel. Might slap some rust protector on and see what happens. The teeth are a little tore up. I think there's about 4 missing. It'll be fine for at least a few years. Anyway, it looks way better now.




I sanded all this to be painted. I'm gonna do a metallic maroon on it...



And the starter... I took it apart and cleaned it up. Turns out it actually stiffened it up a little bit. Hmm. I'm gonna grease it before it goes back on the engine.



I also cleaned up the air box....



And that's what I've done to the motor so far. I do plan on getting a billet dogbone from ARC, but they're out of stock right now. I also have a fuel pump and a recoil pull start in the watch list.

And in the meantime, I got the rear end parts. Just need to clean 'em up and repaint them...




I know you've already seen it on the MM last year, but the square tube rack and everything should've always been on this one. It just fits it better. The MM needs a regular tube rack and there's no two ways about it.

But anyhow, I have some questions again.

If I machine the crank and rod, will it mess with the clearance between the rod surface and crank journal? (I know there's supposed to be no gap, so basically I'm asking will there be any type of "gap".)

Watch this video... The piston is supposed to do that right?

And watch this one too... That's fine right?

to my knowledge the piston is not supposed to move like that unless the rings are off of it, i've never seen one move like that in the bore with good rings, the cam will not have that movement once the cover is in place and it's seated in it's bearing, so that movement while the cover is off should be normal, at least the few small engines i've torn down that far was the same way, but i'm no expert on the internals of engines so i could be wrong, but as long as both of the bearing on either end of the cam are good there should be no issue

Woah, that's some serious piston slap. I don't know what even....it shouldn't have ran at anywhere near that state. That's gotta be an undersized piston. You better hope it's one. As for the cam? Probably ok. Bearings operate in pairs, especially ones like those. You can't tell if they're actually bad without it assembled.