1975 MTD 990 Farm King

Mikuni Swap it!

mukini dose not sound amarican.

damn, thats 1 gumed up carb. a problem i had with mine, more than once, was wasp liked to make nest were the fuel line went in.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Mikuni Swap it!

That's stupid. This is going to be a 90% stock tractor and the dang problem isn't even the carburetor.

RockeyDA wrote:

mukini dose not sound amarican.

Mikuni is a Japanese company that makes performance Motorcycle carbs.

RockeyDA wrote:

damn, thats 1 gumed up carb. a problem i had with mine, more than once, was wasp liked to make nest were the fuel line went in.

Haha, that sounds bad.

Sounds like it is struggling with the hydro

MightyRaze wrote:

Sounds like it is struggling with the hydro

I don't think so because it runs that bad when its in neutral.

buy the way, you know you have an idel and a run jet to adjust, if main jet is to far off it will be fine with no load, then stall out as soon as it needs to bring the throttle up.

did a few things, put it back together and clear coated it, wired up a kill switch, dual wired it because I may add an hour meter or an under-the-hood kill switch for the heck of it, and then I ordered a new carb, should be here Thursday.  After that, this thing is ready to go!



Zip tied everything up and out of the way because since the coil is on backwards, the kill wires could easily get tangled in the flywheel.  And 'cuz why not?



After the clear coat, I think it looks fantastic but that's just me.



Then I found out that this sleeve hitch that I bought on Craigslist and put on the John Deere is actually a 3 point drawbar with some stuff welded to it, LOL.  So I need to cut that stuff off, and then I have a moldboard that's not actually a moldboard but it works lol, and a ripper.  I also can easily get a disk for it, and a rear blade for not a lot of money.  this is nice because I don't know the load cap of this hitch, and I don't want to blow $600 on a 3 point attachment in the first place (which is what they cost), then find out its too heavy or something.



Waiting on the carb, that is the 1 thing I am waiting on, after that it should be ready to go plow a field.  Since it from the factory takes a car battery that's like $100, I'm going to stick with the pull start it has on the s/g pulley for now.

That looks like part of Sear 3pt Rear blade attachment.

Oh sweet, thanks for letting me know, that's 100% what it is.  It even had some white on it when I got it.  I guess the rest of this was completely home fabbed up, which I thought it looked professional enough to be factory. I'll take some pics later.

you can fit a car battery in yours? i got a 20$ battery in mine.

it needs Tires!
& Lights & a real seat, & some paint on the frame, Rims,...
@ least the clear coat lets the body look a tiny bit better than it looked before

RockeyDA wrote:

you can fit a car battery in yours? i got a 20$ battery in mine.

Well it has legit car battery cables in it. And my lawn tractor battery couldn't turn the s/g over, I had to jump it off my Explorer.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

it needs Tires!
& Lights & a real seat, & some paint on the frame, Rims,...
@ least the clear coat lets the body look a tiny bit better than it looked before

Man, you sure love telling people how to build their stuff don't you?

mrshaft696 wrote:

Nice that thing is cool, looks almost like the size of a Case tractor.

According to Tractor Data, this tractor has a 2" longer wheel base, 2 more horsepower, over 100 more pounds not counting wheel weights, 2" wider cutting width, and 3" smaller rear tires than a Case 444, which is what Allis has. So except for the tires, it's slightly bigger in just about every way.

really? my Briggs has a compression release thing, truns over super easy, makes really low current starts. im running off one of thoes 200cca or what ever the cheapest battery at Walmart is. and i got the electrical rigged up with a pice of steel wire tiring the crimped end to the really short 8 gauge on the positive for starting.

Mine probably has a compression release in it, but it doesn't act like it. The s/g probably needs to be cleaned a bit too.

VICTORY IS MINE!!!

I just got the new carb in, threw it on, fired right up without choke, and it drove just fine. Reverse, forward, hi, lo, hydraulics, everything works. I have a vid but I have to upload it later.

Congrats!! Can't wait to see a video!

btw, how do you tune main jet? i tried to go by bogg down if i just slam lever forward but thats hard to judge.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Congrats!! Can't wait to see a video!

Thanks!

RockeyDA wrote:

btw, how do you tune main jet? i tried to go by bogg down if i just slam lever forward but thats hard to judge.

I haven't tuned it yet. It runs fine so I haven't had to mess with it.

sounds great so far, like i said, let me know if you need help with the governor setup.

I thought the motor sounded really healthy in the video @Double W Cross Ranch. This tractor is definitely was of those great barn find kind of deals. What did the carb run you?

RockeyDA wrote:

sounds great so far, like i said, let me know if you need help with the governor setup.

Thanks, yeah I will. I think I might.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I thought the motor sounded really healthy in the video @Double W Cross Ranch.  This tractor is definitely was of those great barn find kind of deals.  What did the carb run you?

Thanks, yeah it has plenty of compression. Thanks!

Carb was $33 with free 2-day shipping. I'm a little annoyed because the needle doesn't seat all the way, and if you know how an updraft works you'll understand this, when the engine is not running the bowl overflows and the gas pours into the bottom part of the carb, and then leaks out through the hole where the pin for the air filter threads in. It's not bad enough that it leaks when the engine is running, so for now I've just been shutting the fuel line off when I turn the engine off. I'm a little annoyed, probably going to leave a bad review, but I'm going to see if it just needs to break in a bit, and if not I'll have to take it apart and clean out the needle.

@Double W Cross Ranch I had the same problem with an ebay carb I bought for my K301 in my C-125. It was a really easy fix. It turned out there were some small metal shavings on the needle or seat that got in there after I threaded the fuel line adapter into the carb.

nice that U got it running!