ATLTF.COM Chevy Race Truck

Nice mightyraze. Beal, the door pins are I guess hardened steel, but pressed into the hinge brackets are bronze bushings. Pin comes with 2 bushings in a "kit", about $5 each, so $10 does the drivers door. Not so bad. I think steel on steel might wear kind of fast. Hopefully I have the right ones, I didn't check to make sure yet.

Window net came in the mail! With the seats I ordered, shipping was going to be $10 and jegs website said spend another $15 to get free shipping on the order. So I ordered the $17 something window net, even though I didn't need it. Basically saved $2 something and got a free net. Top and bottom are just a sewn in loop, so I need to make some rods that slide through and somehow attach it to the door since the door still opens and closes and there's no roll cage to hook to. Figure something out I guess.

Passenger side floor pretty much done now, on the inside at least.

Before


Now with the corner patched up

Any chance you are gona bed liner the inside floor?

Now that youve finished the floor in this... want to come put the floor in my Jeep?

Im planning on putting down a layer of por15, or chassis saver... then some herculiner. Im curious how well it will hide the welds.

Sorry, after this floor, I've got a 67 mercedes diesel floor to patch up, I'm booked......

Actually, for this floor I just planned on painting it rustoleum gloss black and then leaving it bare, no carpet or anything to get wet. I used some napa brand bed liner on my dodge rampage floors, some rust came through a little where water would lay in there. I only had one coat though, could have put it on thicker. In my opinion, it's not worth the cost to use it. In my case I had bed liner left over from doing the actual bed in the truck. POR 15 is extremely expensive if I remember correctly. I think regular rustoleum paint is pretty decent stuff actually. I painted the rusty frame on my toyota pickup after just scrubbing it off a bit with a wire brush and it held up good being parked out in the rain.

As far as hiding the welds, You'd have to have it pretty thick to hide them. I think it's neat to be able to see the patches my self.

Party pooper.

Ill probably finish the top coat with some kind of rustoleum... so it matches my grey trim. Gotta match y'know.

Im thinking around $30 a quart... thinking about spraying it on, hopefully there will be enough to cover everything. I think the herculiner is about the same $$. I read good thing about them both... some horror storing about the rustoleum peeling up and flaking. Id rather be safe than sorry... ofcourse it could all go wrong anyways.

Jegs seats finally showed up. Just need to make some brackets to mount them to the floor at some point.



I've heard SOME people complaining these seats are going to be too hard. That may be true, but on the plus side, you can literally hose out the interior and not ruin anything when you have plastic seats and no carpet.  

Truck backed into the shop, fuel tank removed. Working on making a new mount for it behind the cab so it won't hang down so low.

Nice! Like the seats. You could mount the fuel tank to the roll cage.

Thanks. Planning on having a skeleton like platform welded to the frame just behind the cab which the fuel tank and battery will both sit on. Then the roll bar will be welded to the frame just in front of that. I'm working off of those pads that stick up off the frame where the bed used to bolt on to.

Looking good! I also like the seat!

Frickin sweet mr.moo! Are you gonna do the roll cage internal or external? And I think that whoever is complaining about those seats just has a sensitive arse lol

Gonna be toooooooooooooo haaaaaaaaaaaard.

hoseable for those "OH SHART!" moments

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

hoseable for those "OH SHART!" moments

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA that made my day

With the way the Don drives, it probably wont be his shart lol.

The won't be a full roll cage, only a roll bar behind the cab. That will either have a cross brace or be X'ed and then have down tubes/supports on both sides of course running back down to the frame. I really think the seats won't be so bad, they seem to be shaped pretty good even though they are hard plastic. We'll see. And what about my driving, I'm an excellent driver!

I have the mount mostly done for the gas tank. I just need to add the straps and some more pieces to hold the battery.


The rods that hold up the gas tank will have rubber hose over them. I think the exhaust will come over the frame here. Between the frame and the angle iron bracket, then out through a hole in the bed side.


How the gas tank will sit. Battery will go about there. Fuel lines are under the pink rag on the frame. All I need is to use some longer hoses to reconnect them. Of course also needs the wires for the fuel gauge hooked back up.


Filler neck will get modified somewhat later once we find out where the roll bar supports and bed sides will end up.

That's looking nice!

Battery tray and hold down complete. Was going to leave the end piece out so various length batteries can fit, as some as the same width, but decided it would be simpler to just use this one size. This is a group 35. Threaded rod is 7/16, a bit heavier than needed, but it was what I had laying around.


Fuel tank will have two straps over the top to hold it in place. Here on the front of the frame for the tank, are two loops/brackets for the straps. Strap will loop around them and bolt back to itself. On the other side of the tank, the straps will have a threaded rod bolted to them, which will tighten them down.

I like it man! Should hold the battery and fuel tank pretty good

It does looks super cool.

Thanks!

Air cleaner modifications... Was going to leave it alone, with the plastic flexible hose that ran from the air cleaner to the front of the truck. Leaving it stock didn't seem like much fun though, and I like things to look simple and not be in the way when your working on things. Decided to get rid of the plastic hose and the intake horn, which I cut off and welded a plate over. Drilling a bunch of holes in the back of the air cleaner. This way the holes will be protected from splashing water. For some reason a lot of water usually splashes up under the hood when going through large puddles. Also put some drain holes through the bottom of the air cleaner (outside of the filter of course). Once it's done, I'll clean and paint it with whatever half empty can of bright colored high temp engine paint I have laying around.

Dem burrs.

Cool! Is there going to be a snorkel coming off of the holes or something? Or is it just gonna suck air through the holes?

Thanks, I think it will just pull air through the holes. Still have a few more to put in. AND DOUG I'M NOT DONE WITH ITTTTTTT!

Oh ok. Nice, hahaha!

mr.modified wrote:

Thanks, I think it will just pull air through the holes. Still have a few more to put in. AND DOUG I'M NOT DONE WITH ITTTTTTT!

Quit posting unfinished photos then doooooooooofus. Gall