How to make MTD FNR not slip?

hi i have a mtd style tracotr that has a FNR tans with the varidrive thing but i cant even go up the slightest hill, it just slips... is it normal ? can i do anything about it except getting a proper trans ? thanks

I think theres a rear belt tesioner on some, mine had one. Does it have a spring on it?

i will check that later today thanks

it has an idler and the spring is still on it but the belt is still loose and the idler cant go any tighter because it will rub against the input pulley

Belt too big?

idk but its the original one as far as i know

Perhaps it is too worn out.

yeah i think the belt stretched with time

How to make an MTD FNR not slip? Buy a craftsman.




if you want to keep it, go buy some new belts. My dad bought a set of belts off ebay or amazon for $18 for both.

yeah its slipping because when i pull the clutch pedal back it grabs again, i think i need a stronger spring for the clutch

The varidrives can be complicated. How they are setup might help so you will know for sure what to replace or if it just needs adjustment.

I'll start with belt size, 5/8 belts are used. Just going to the part store and expecting they will have one is pretty far fetched. Everybody stocks the 1/2 or 3/8 wide belts and the varidrive depends on the 5/8 wide belts for the different speeds, works like a go cart torque converter by changing the pulley diameters but on a riding mower the pulley diameters are controlled by the shifter instead of centrifugal rpm. If a belt is needed then you will need the model # of riding mower and go to where ever you buy specific parts for lawn equipment.

SO, how the belts are setup.... I'll start with the f/n/r transaxle and work forward. The belt on the transaxle to the mid varipulley should be under tension all the time and the mid varipulley, the belt should be all the way inside the pulley so it will be at it's smallest diameter and with enough belt tension where there is no slippage, with the clutch pushed in all the way, the tension should be constant. If this belt is loose then adjustment is needed or a new 5/8 belt. If you are pretty handy and the idler is at it's max travel with belt still loose, you can maybe change location of idler or add an idler to tighten up the belt tension instead of buying a new belt. How it works pays off here, lol.

Mid varipulley setup... I'll start explaining setup while clutch is pushed in. With the clutch pushed in all the way, the 5/8 belt from the varipulley to engine is the belt you are controlling with the clutch. With the clutch pushed in all the way, the engine to mid varipulley is loose. First gear is the belt grabbing and mower moving. If this isn't happening, there is an adjustment on the linkage for the clutch pedal to varipulley to make this happen. If you get this right then the rest of the gears will work.

Do your inspection and adjustments or replace of parts in this order and you should get the problem solved.
          So the order would be...
1- Both belts should be 5/8" wide belts.
2- Constant pressure on belt from transaxle to mid varipulley, even with the clutch pushed in all the way.
3- Belt from varipulley to engine when clutch is pushed in all the way, should be loose or neutral. Then put shifter in 1st gear and the belt should be grabbing. If belt is not grabbing, there is an adjuster on the clutch pedal rod to mid varipulley to adjust to make this happen. When this step is done right then everything else will be good.
Hope it helps.

thanks for all the great info i will check that out tommorow !

I just got a MTD garden tractor with the same set up. I had to order belts. Here is the one I bought for the rear belt. Got it from Amazon for $15. 954-0446 Replacement belt made with Kevlar. For MTD, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, White, YardMan