Mr.Modified's Simplicity Adventure Edition [2016 Build-Off Finalist]

The aluminum bore engine I'll start off with. Cleaned inside and out, governor removed and hole sealed, some edges smoothed out in the combustion chamber, polished rough edges off the rod, cut down the oil dipper a little, sanded the head flat, new head gasket, and painted. Still need to make intake manifold and put a pull start handle back on the rope.

Great looking engine. On the frame, where you tacked the back on to the main part, are you going to leave the "For Your Safety" sticker on?

Engine looks fantastic. Is that the aluminium 7hp one? I had the same idea as you painting the flywheel screen red

Thanks. The sticker got ground off because that's where the steering column had to go. And yes, that's the 7hp aluminum bore engine.

Plated in the rest of the frame connection. No gussets until later when I know nothing will be in the way.


Still didn't add any more bracing to this side either until I know 100% where the belt is going.


Wheel base is supposed to end up at around 45" if I remember correctly. About the same as the stock sears suburban.


Stock sears suburban steering column fit right into the simplicity frame with some trimming. Welded it in just like the sears guys had it for now.


Column is at about the same spot as it was on the sears in relation to the rear part of the frame. Right now I'm still working on getting the front axle figured out. I have all the parts, just need to drill out a couple of brackets.

Nice fab skills! By the looks of things the steering shaft will be straight up or is it not like that? Could call this the Simple Sears or Sears Simplicity as it is basically two frames welded together. Neat.

Alright, how are we going to pull it out when it breaks in half. lol just kidding, but looks good. See how the steering holds up.

Thanks. The steering column is at an angle, might be hard to tell in the pic. Probably close to what it was in the sears frame. You can't go too far because it would mess up the angle at the bottom since there's no u-joint anywhere. Should call it the Searplicity. The rest of the steering, with all the rods and ends will be aftermarket stuff. The simplcity frame is going to be braced up some on the underside too. Steering column will be tied into in several spots. It'll be pretty bullet proof when I'm done I think. The forward/center steering pivot will be hooked onto the front axle like on the redlinemotorsports MTD steering box. Stock sears suburban arangement, just heavier joints and rods. I'll get them off of bmikarts I think.

Ah okay, looked at the pic of the sears on one of the previous pages and it does look like it is on a bit of an angle. Using the Sears steering wheel?

I have the older style flat sears steering wheel that came from the frame I'm cutting up. 1967-68? They are plastic molded over steel. I broke off some of the plastic trying to get it off (It was cracked from age anyway). I may use the center hub from that and weld a big washer to it so I can bolt on a car wheel. I also have a newer style sears wheel (1970+?) that's in good shape. But there's a center cap that covers where the C-clip holds the wheel on which says sears on it. You would have to grind that off somehow. I would rather not have any sears markings anywhere since it's supposed to be a simplicity. I'll take pictures soon once I need to put the wheel on.

Yes I know the one that you're taking about. Kinda like the ones from a TE20? (TO20 to you)
As for the cap on the steering wheel, couldnt you just file it off or grind it off using a bench grinder? I think I've done that in the past and it worked ok. A car steering wheel would be neat! As long as it isnt too big though

I could just grind it off I guess. The car one I have is about the same size as the sears one I think. I'll have to check. I don't want to use too many easy to recognize sears parts either, but I guess most people wouldn't know anyway. Too bad the original wheels are super light for off road use. Flimsy plastic.

Custom Simplicity T shirts came in the mail!
Front.


Back. Ready for Haspin....as soon as the rest of the machine is done.

Nice T-shirts man! I think a car steering wheel would look best on it to be honest, your call though!

Thanks, I would have liked to put the red simplicity 'S' on them, but I didn't have a good way to get that onto the shirt website. I"ll probably end up using the car wheel.

Almost ready to start on the front axle. Bought a weld on 3 point hitch joint to use for a pivot. Welded a huge section of angle iron in the frame to hold everything. A couple of pipes will go from this pivot to the front axle. Pretty much the same setup as Redlinemotorsports MTD.


Cut out a plate to hold the jack shaft bearings. Bought a couple of cheap 3/4" bearing pillow blocks online. The plate will be welded to the steering column and also have extra support down to the frame. I need to get a piece of 3/4" bar for the shaft. Pulleys will most likely just get welded solid to the shaft, I don't think I'll need to change them.


You can see about where the belt will come up through the frame. The belt between the transmission and the jack shaft will have a spring loaded tensioner. The clutch will be between the engine and jack shaft. I may have to cut some more out of the frame on top to make room for the belt. Since the belt will be right in your lap, I'll probably box it in somehow.

id make it so at least one pulley can be taken off so the bearings can some off Mr. lazy

You can pop those bearings out of housings.  Not sure about welding, housings look like cast iron.

The pulleys will get welded to the 3/4 shaft, you can still remove/replace the bearings if you want. Pulleys will be on the outside of both bearings, not between. I just don't want to buy a keyed shaft or grind a keyway. I figure you'll probably never need to change gear ratios once you get it where you want it. If you do, you just have to weld a couple pulleys to another shaft. No big deal, shaft is only going to be about a foot long. I don't think I'll even need lock collars, just use the set screws in the bearings and maybe drill an indentation for them in the shaft.

I'm honestly finding all of this fascinating. It's a really great concept. Sort of a cross between an off-roading machine and a utility/long range type tractor. Gotta love that!

Thanks, I think it's going to work out ok. Hopefully it will be less boring on longer runs than the baja sears with a little extra speed.

I welded the bearing mounting plate to the steering column. This is just mocking up where things will go a little so I can see what goes where. Still need to add some bracing to the plate.


That pulley is the original drive pulley from the simplicity transmission. I wasn't even going to calculate out the ratio. Figured I could just guess pretty close based off the baja sears. I'd like to be able to start off in 1st gear high range for smoother areas and then you have the low range for woods and rough terrain. The baja sears is geared too low and you start off in 2nd high and almost never need the low range.

Lookin good, I need a jackshaft on my simplicity so I can clutch on one belt and do the twist on the other belt, and for a bit more speed. Soooo... why are you using rebar for your shafts? is it stronger? LOL

Its gotta be for mock up, he aint THAT bad. (I hope)

Ill be disappointed if rebar doesnt make it onto the Simplicity somehow.

Heck no I'm not using rebar for the shaft. lol. I just didn't have anything to mock it up with. Maybe I'll use some rebar somewhere just to keep Doug happy. Cool rebar clutch pedal or something. Cup holder maybe.

Please do.

Starting the front axle. Lining it all up was tough. Ended up being pretty close.


I kept the tubes near the top edge of the axle to leave room for the steering rods. The tubes are at a slight upward angle, the pivot point is a couple inches higher than the axle is. I think when everything is finished the axle should have just a little bit of rake to it.




Connecting the tubes to the joint wasn't perfect, but it should be strong enough.

Looks good!