'86 Westwood T1200

First time I took my trans-axle apart the snifter ball had rusted itself to the bottom of the spring and set screw.

mightyraze wrote:

First time I took my trans-axle apart the snifter ball had rusted itself to the bottom of the spring and set screw.

Nope, it's not there. The trans was taken apart before I got it (bolts were lose) so it's probably lost.

Got a wee bit done on the Westwood today. Removed the messy wiring loom and solenoid.






Found this rocker switch cover that I'm going to put over the top of the kill switch. Pull start only on this one now, no battery or electrical system to go wrong.



Gonna mount the switch here.



Made a start on the exhaust. Thinking of doing a stack, seeing as this tractor won't be doing any mad high speed turns etc where it would tip over (I hope )

My uncle has about half a dozen broken gates that have about 1 1/2" tubing. Gonna use that for the stack.

Cut the flange off a 11hp briggs exhaust.

Got a slight bit more done on the exhaust.


Piece of a gate cut out to use as the exhaust. 




Started to weld the flange onto the pipe.

Looks good so far! Are you having some sort or muffler or resonator? Not sure if you mentioned it hahaha.

Not at this stage. If it is too loud, i will build a muffler for it.

Ah, ok. Should look pretty cool!

Looks good, are you going to have issues with the bolts and the pipe? Looks kind of close to the bolt holes. I have that problem with my sears.

Thought someone would ask that! I'm using allen head bolts and if necessary I will ding the pipe in to clear the bolts.

That's what I had to do for the header pipe on the rat rod. It uses Allen head bolts and I took a grinder to the pipe next to the bolts just enough so they would squeeze by.

MatthewD wrote:

Thought someone would ask that! I'm using allen head bolts and if necessary I will ding the pipe in to clear the bolts.

Gotcha, I need to look into removing the posts from my honda clone to use hex heads instead of nuts. I need to update the exhaust this spring on the sears.

Just ordered up a toggle switch, throttle cable for my foot throttle, and an exhaust cap.

Updated To-do list.

-completely redo the whole belt system. re position clutch pedal and rebuild clutch. new bigger pulleys (have to see what sizes I can find) finished, just needs some fine tuning
-new(ish) front and rear tyres. Ag's rear and knobbies front. rears are done fronts still need to be completed
-front and rear bumpers still to do
-dual throttle. courtesy of @RevDogg almost finished
-fix fuel leak and mount fuel tank still to do
-new exhaust almost finished
-build up and lock the peerless 832 still to lock and put it back together

Exhaust is nearly done. Cut to length. May shorten it even more if need be.






Started her up today for the first time in a while. There was quite a lot of smoke at the first but it soon cleared up.

Looks good, bet it sounds cool too! How will the hood work with your new stack? Looks like it is inside.

Yeah, I can get flames out of it too! The stack just clears the hood. I noticed that the trim around the hood melted once I closed the hood down so I'll have to cut it.

Anyway went to it today and there was a puddle of fuel below the tractor and the oil smelt of petrol. I'll need to take the carb off and take a look at it.

Stack looks pretty cool! Is it really loud?

Thanks! It is pretty loud so I might put a homemade muffler on sometime later.

MatthewD wrote:

Yeah, I can get flames out of it too! The stack just clears the hood. I noticed that the trim around the hood melted once I closed the hood down so I'll have to cut it.

Anyway went to it today and there was a puddle of fuel below the tractor and the oil smelt of petrol. I'll need to take the carb off and take a look at it.

Debris in the needle and seat maybe? Good cleaning should help hopefully.

Yep I just have to remove the carb and clean it. Also I have to change the oil.

If you make that muffler make sure you take lots of pics hahaha!

Yep I will. Received my switch, throttle cable and exhaust flapper today. I discovered that my hub for locking the trans isn't 3/4" all the way through it has a lip that goes down to about 17.5mm at the end so I have to get it bored out to 3/4" all the way though.

Anyone know the bolt size for a 28ci Briggs crank? I appear to have lost mine.

1/2-20. I think 20...it's fine thread

Man I wish there was a handy chart for that. I lost the bolt for my 16hp twin opposed too last week. I did a lot of googling. I finally figured it out on my own.

I did some googling and I keep coming up with 7/16-20 which is the same as my twin or even coming up with a 3/8-24?

As Rich said, it is a fine threaded and Briggs recommends Grade 8.

I meant 7/16-20 lol what was I thinking. Only 1" shaft Briggs engines that have 3/8 tapped cranks are horizontals.

Thanks! I'll order one up

In other news I fitted the exhaust flapper yesterday. Note the poor S1200 frame awaiting resurrection.

Got any videos of it running with that straight pipe. I bet it sounds sweet!

mightyraze wrote:

Got any videos of it running with that straight pipe. I bet it sounds sweet!

Yeah! Getchu a youtube channel and put up some vids! That'd be dope! exhaustooks good, bet it has a good thud to it! Don't roll it hahaha trust me it ruins most anything sticking up like that.