'86 Westwood T1200

I recently picked up a Westwood T1200, one of the earlier models, 1986, with a blown 12hp I/C Briggs engine. I had a spare '98 PowerBuilt 12hp Briggs that I swapped in and got running.
I plan on making this a utility tractor - bumpers, rear atv rack and cargo space, pulley swap (want to be able to get from A to B quickly-ish without having too much RPM - while trying not to chop it up too much, because it's such a nice mower.
For the drive train it has a 12hp Briggs, and a Peerless 801.
She also has a few neat features like a stitched leather steering wheel and a stock double pulley clutch!

This is what she looked like when I got it:

I installed some 18x8.50x8 Duro Chevrons on the rear.


This is where I'm at as of yesterday.

Haven't done much to this really except drive it around. I haven't had a running tractor in a while.

I went for a little drive down our back lane and in a couple of fields. We just had quite a bit of rain so it was muddy. I was very suprised at the traction it had, still not locked.

Pics!!

(Talks to oneself )

Love the way your tractor looks. I bet it damn sure drives well too!!!!!

Thanks! It does drive well, nice smooth clutch.

I removed nearly all of the mower deck hardware and am working on a pulley swap. Going for a 1:1 or nearabouts.

Been doing some work on the Westwood. Going for a 5 1/2" engine pulley and 4" on the transmission, this should allow me to use the stock belt.

Pulled the tranny out yesterday but can't get the pulley off. Tried putting some oil around the shaft and then using a pulley puller but it doesn't want to come off. Any suggestions?

Checkout redneckcomputergeek pulley removal video on youtube. He uses mapp gas and paraffin wax. It worked for me me on a tranny that sat outside for at least 20 yrs.

Quick update, got the pulley off but can't seem to get the bolt holes lined up for the right rear mounts. Any ideas?

New Update!
I swapped my turf tyres back on because I need the other Chevron tyres for another project. Welded a rear bumped up, made out of 1.5" box section steel. I Got my 5 1/2" front pulley and 4" rear pulley on. All transaxle bolts are on. Does about 15-20 mph.

So,
I've been working on the wiring and trying to rectify why the battery wasn't charging. Found out that the alternator was only putting out 2 volts. Been trying to remove the flywheel but my pulley puller isn't big enough to grab on the bottom.
It's fairly rusty so any idea's how I could remove it?

There should be 2 threaded holes on opposite sides of the center of the flywheel. The idea is to bolt a flat bar across the center of the flywheel. In the center of the flat bar is a threaded hole. You thread a bolt through the center hole until it meets the end of the crankshaft. Then you continue to thread that center bolt in until the flywheel pops off.
When the flywheel breaks free, it can be very sudden and surprising.

You should be able to buy a "flywheel puller" (which is what I described above) from an auto parts store or a good hardware store for the equivalent of 20 US dollars. You will definitely need to remove several flywheels in your lifetime so you might as well buy one.

People will tell you to pry on it and hit it with a hammer, but I wouldn't if I were you. If you crack it, it can disintegrate later when the engine is running and hurt someone.

Thanks. Looks like I will try and make my own flywheel puller.

All the flywheels that I have had to take off in the past have come off by the method you mentioned not to use. Screw the flywheel nut down until it covers the tip of the threads of the shaft, pry it with a screwdriver and give it a dacent crack with a hammer and it usually comes off. Tried it with this one but it didn't work. My Dad mentioned getting flywheels off in the past by using spades!

Anyway, here's an update of a few little things that I've been doing over the past while.
Took off the brake rod to give the threads a clean so the nut would tighten on better and reduce the slop in the brakes,
Before.

After.

Then I gave the rear bumper a lick of black paint. I don't think you ha seen this yet though I did mention I had welded one up. ( I think the paint was a wee bit off as it has a purplish tint to it.) Also primed other places that were rusting.


Took the sweeper bar off as it was in the way. It has 2 wee tabs that connect onto the sweeper to hold it up.

Also mocked up a front bumper. Might actually make it pivot with the bonnet (hood). It came stock on another one of my tractors.

I dug out the blown 12 horse briggs that came with this tractor. It's got a pull start and starter clutch but unfortunately the crank shafts are different. The blown one with the starter has a long taper shaft at the flywheel end where as the other one doesn't.
The plan is when I have time to take both engines apart and swap crankshafts so that I can have a pull start back up.


I also dug out the original metal fuel tank that came with the tractor. I added in a plastic one I had laying around because the cap on the steel one was a Quantum briggs that didn't fit.
But now I'd like to put it back in so does anyone know a cap that would fit this?




And finally, dragged the transmission out to try and solve the belt problems. I plan to cut a circular "disk" out of plastic (about 6" in diameter) so when the clutch is disengaged, the belt falls onto the disk, when the clutch is engaged, the belt tightens up around the pulley again.

Thats all.
Sorry for the long post and I'd like to know your thoughts on the plastic "disk" arrangement on the transmission pulley.

I think the disk under the pulley would work good. On my gtr mini rally machine, the skid plate is right under the pulleys and seems to keep the belt on pretty good. Really loose when the clutch is engaged and doesn't need any guides that way.

Sounds as if it would work then.

I'm thinking of cutting off my rear bumper and added on a removable rear transport box. Any Thoughts?

And also, any thoughts on the fuel tank/cap issue,
Thanks!

Gas tank looks like it's supposed to have a tab type cap, like one that only turns about 1/4 turn. No idea what else would have one of those. I haven't seen them used too much on mower stuff here. Mostly threaded caps. What kind of box do you mean for the back? It couldn't be on top of the existing bumper somehow? Seems like the bumper is fairly low the way it is.

Yes, here is an ad for one which shows the cap
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WESTWOOD-RIDE-ON-MOWER-METAL-FUEL-TANK-/131627061156?hash=item1ea5958fa4:g:0NsAAOSwA4dWHRx-

Anyway, been working on the disc for the pulley but couldn't get it to work. Tried gluing it twice but it didn't stay. So, thinking that I need a pulley with a big grove. Does anyone know where I could get a 4" pulley with a big grove in it?

Not sure specifically where you can get your pulley, but if using the interwebs/ebay/amazon etc, try searching for a pulley designed for a larger belt type than what you run. For example, if your tractor runs a 3L type/size belt, look for a 4L or 5L pulley. This may help get you past your belt issues without having to find some special/custom pulley, or having to make one. Just a thought. Info on various belt sizes here. This might at least give you some terms to use when searching.

As for the gas cap, I dunno man. Maybe take the tank with you to a shop that services hydraulic systems on construction equipment and such. The only times I've seen tanks and caps like that around here were on hydraulic tanks on these machines and woodsplitters. Failing that, maybe a trip to a junkyard checking out automotive radiator caps? *Might* be able to find something that'll work. Just a shot in the dark there. Good luck!

So, I made myself my own 4" pulley by cutting and welding a lot of things together. The only problem is it isn't perfectly centered. Would this still be okay? Need advice quickly

yeah it should be fine. I have welded up my own pulleys and they where of center and a bit wobbly but they seem ok. I have run one of mine for 2 years and it seems fine still.

Thanks. It moves quite a bit though, maybe about 1/3 - 1/4". Is this still okay? I also chucked in a bit of 80w90 gearbox oil through the shifter ball hole for some lubrication, even though it is a grease filled gearbox because it was whining.

Yes it should be ok.

Thanks will get some picture updates soon

Does anyone know the part number and where I can get a con rod for a briggs 12hp IC engine?

Does ayone know if 12hp IC Briggs vertical shafts have oil dippers? My con rod set came and theres an oil dipper in it but no room for it to go. It fouls on stuff.
Matthew

Hello,
Done a fair bit of engineering since the last update.

Engine swap. '98 Powerbuild out, and the original '86 I/C Pull start back in!

Cant upload pics atm for some reason but will soon