this is a 1997 murray wide body given to me for free from my algebra 2 teacher. he ran it out of oil and the crank and rod ceased together. Done: EZ-LOCKED pulley swap new clutch bigger tires. re-wire separate choke fender flares
To do: stack front and rear bumpers gas pedal brake pedal more lights tow hooks re-enforce front axle hanger what else? POST YOUR IDEAS!
current stuff: so took it apart, the whole tractor is in immaculate condition for being 18 years old. i ground out the rod, so then it worked freely (trying to save money on a new one). then i redid the clutch to a dual pulley and pulley swapped it to 1:1 with 5' pulleys. after figuring out belt size, and other stuff. i put it all together. its loud as hell (i wonder why.....) i will maybe make the stack tomorrow, will do the gas and brake pedals. old bike brakes. but, runs ok, its sensitive to power demand, (Is it because of the current short exhaust? or is it carb?
but i set up separate choke, all new re-wire, 20" tires, instead of the stock 18.5s. MORE PICS here is some of the clutch...
Last edited by mudman604 on December 22nd 2015, 1:45 pm; edited 4 times in total
redlinemotorsportts Moderator
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Looks good and sounds like you got some good plans, lots of fearless front mods, hes a good guy to listen to as far as mods. For future reference if you make custom clutches, because nobody really says this in videos, is make sure you keep the clutch on the same side of the belt as stock. when i made mine and didnt know what i was really doin', i put mine on the wrong side and had a lot of slip.
ATV tires and locking the axle if you drive on challenging terrain is a big ting for me too. stacks are OK, id keep that little muffler you got somewhere in the stack when you build it so you dont go deaf lol.
Other things are like lights on the bumpers, tow hooks, atv winches, skid plates, belly pans, upgraded steering so its tighter and lasts longer, storage spots, tow rope, ect. all depends on where you drive and what you do. Every mower is build around you, for you.
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yea, quick note, i had to add a idler in the opposite side because the belt rubbed the shifter. it my not have been completely necessary, but its there. now it the engine was not so sensitive on power delivery, i easily pop wheelies with this clutch.
mudman604 Member
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Looks good and sounds like you got some good plans, lots of fearless front mods, hes a good guy to listen to as far as mods. For future reference if you make custom clutches, because nobody really says this in videos, is make sure you keep the clutch on the same side of the belt as stock. when i made mine and didnt know what i was really doin', i put mine on the wrong side and had a lot of slip.
ATV tires and locking the axle if you drive on challenging terrain is a big ting for me too. stacks are OK, id keep that little muffler you got somewhere in the stack when you build it so you dont go deaf lol.
Other things are like lights on the bumpers, tow hooks, atv winches, skid plates, belly pans, upgraded steering so its tighter and lasts longer, storage spots, tow rope, ect. all depends on where you drive and what you do. Every mower is build around you, for you.
winch, maybe, i have my m-99 for that, link in signature. fearless front is why i started this whole mower modding off-roading thing. the story is at m-99's forum post. im not a big fan of stacks ether, but it my dads tractor and he wants a stack:) . i will see on the muffler, probably will, but will see how loud it is. tow hooks defiantly, the stock murray dual tierod stering is pretty tough isn't it? iv had my experience with it. on m-99, i hit a tree, bent a spindle, axle, axle hanger, and snapped two teeth off of the small steering gear. the tie rods did not bend . i like it alot.
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so, did some more work today, still straight piped. so, got on it rode it around, found engine and tranny leaking oil. both a case of not tightened enough bolts. the engine, i had to disconnect every thing and UN-bolt it then re-tighten all the crankcase bolts, and the tranny was only in one spot, so after tightening the bolts added some extra RTV to seal it. then i got to the gas and brake pedals. i didn't get any pics while building, but her is the final product. so as you can see, i took a peace of tub steel from the deck system, welded two angled handle bar peaces to it and used two bike brakes the usual go-to system then it is bolted to the fender and of course, brake on the left, gas on the right. the brake went to a hole drilled in the custom tranny mount, then it is looped around and clamped to itself. orig spring for the brake. works great. then to gas hooks to the orig plastic peace with a screw, note: the screw has to be the shortish screw you can find, not to big, if its too long, it will lock up the whole setup. i covered the flash with a finger trying to get a better pic, looks cool. the return spring, i cut a notch into the carb support and hooked ti there. thats it. will prob do the stack tomorrow
mudman604 Member
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Nice progress, that gas and brake pedal may get a little confusing for you, being that they are so skinny and close. be sure to brace the stack, if you roll onto the stack you will likely royally F up the engine block or head if its a ohv.
mudman604 Member
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Nice progress, that gas and brake pedal may get a little confusing for you, being that they are so skinny and close. be sure to brace the stack, if you roll onto the stack you will likely royally F up the engine block or head if its a ohv.
thanks, althought, its just gas on the right, brake on the left. just like a car. the stack, we went shorty with it, but i cant get the editor for a post to put in a pic! where is it?
redlinemotorsportts Moderator
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ok, i guess it was the school wifi not letting me use the reply tools. i would, but i sold them to my friend -https://www.atltf.com/t4358-air-soft-tank because he needed them. here are the exhaust pics. i have a vid of a muffler FAIL (that's why there's screws in it) ill upload it later this weekend.
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