Lifted 4x4

What's against the rules? the suzuki motor? I'm sure they have a weedeater in Japan with a Suzuki engine on it lol

Yea it was on a fourwheeler though I didnt think you could do that if yall will let me ill do it for the buildoff still

chains wont be to long, and your fine, both axles will go in the same direction. im still wondering about knuckles   

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

chains wont be to long, and your fine, both axles will go in the same direction. im still wondering about knuckles   

I'm going to get the All wheel steer ones off a tranny.
And if it it gear on gear the front will turn the opposite lol. I just need to mount a stationary "middle" gear always turning with the main jack shaft, then the secondary jack shaft will slide and lock into the solo gear, that way my axles will spin happily in the same direction lmao

If it was mine, Id put a peerless 6 speed, chop the axles off the sides some.. Mount sprockets on what I kept of the axle shaft, then run those to both axles, Id also lock the transaxle I used, Making it all the time 4x4.. Then You could mount some sort of gearbox capable of going from neutral to ingear and thats it for your 4x4.. Then steering.. welll IDK on that one.

i dont want it 4x4 all the time tho, and my dad just had an idea lol and i added onto it with some reasoning.
instead of all the chains and gears that will have to mesh good, and be greased and oiled all the time, use belts.. well mostly belts.
i would only have ONE jack shaft, and it will come from engine, that part will be chain. then there will be TWO pulleys on that shaft going to the front and rear axle. with this setup i could have front end only, rear end only, both, or none. only thing i was worried about was the slip, this will prob end up with some 30in mud tires so id have to get the belt damn tight, but since its a one time engagement clutch i could have the lever longer and really push it tight. and i could have it push in some "clutch" pulleys as we know it, in multiple spots on the belt. if yall think the belts will grab enough i will probly do that. and the reason im leanin towards that setup already is if i have some slippage, the belt will most likely slip before the tranny in the engine goes... the gears in that engine were only "designed" for 22in atv tires on a mid size atv. not 4 four wheels turning with big ass tires lol. tell me what you think !

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

If it was mine, Id put a peerless 6 speed, chop the axles off the sides some.. Mount sprockets on what I kept of the axle shaft, then run those to both axles, Id also lock the transaxle I used, Making it all the time 4x4.. Then You could mount some sort of gearbox capable of going from neutral to ingear and thats it for your 4x4.. Then steering.. welll IDK on that one.

thats a good idea, but im using a horizontal fourwheeler engine instead of a vertical shaft, thats why im out of the build off haha

I dont mean to sound like a downer, but belts are designed to be high speed gear reduction with low amounts of torque. thats why you never see belts as the final gear reduction on a mower. There just not designed for that much torque. that setup would probably work for moving it around the yard. but you get it down in the mud or on much of a hill and that belt is going to slip.
Just as an idea have you though of using front and rear axles out of a pre 89 honda foreman? there basically really small truck solid axles. Here is a link to a picture where you can clearly see the front axle. http://forum.highlifter.com/whats-is-worth-1987-Honda-Foreman-350D-m4163996.aspx
you could have your 160 motor sideways chain driving a transfer case with good old driveshafts going to the front and rear axles like a truck

GenevaCustoms wrote:

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

chains wont be to long, and your fine, both axles will go in the same direction. im still wondering about knuckles   

I'm going to get the All wheel steer ones off a tranny.
And if it it gear on gear the front will turn the opposite lol. I just need to mount a stationary "middle" gear always turning with the main jack shaft, then the secondary jack shaft will slide and lock into the solo gear, that way my axles will spin happily in the same direction lmao

I have no clue what your saying, what you drawed up is correct, engine to hacks haft then those chains to the axle. Not that complicated.

I think it's a great Idea... the slippage problem wont be as bad as you think, if you use large pulleys.

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

I think it's a great Idea... the slippage problem wont be as bad as you think, if you use large pulleys.

i would probably run at least 5 inch for the small pulley... and creepycrawler, what do you mean small amounts of tourqe? we all use belts on our mowers? and the belts i would be using wouldnt be any longer than on our noraml tractors, only thing i was worried about is the larger tires. but if i dont have to engage and disengage the belt for every shift that means the initial engagement could be extremely tight, and have muliple pulleys engaging the clutch. i think there would be some slip, but like i said, rather slip belts than strip tranny gears in engine

if i dont have a gear between they will spin the opposite directions but i dont think ill be using this drive train anyway. i think ill be trying the belts.

Your right we all use belts on our mowers buts is the first Gear reduction in the system not the last. The final drive is always gear or chain. Think about it. The belt drives a gear box which cuts the speed down and adds torque. Say your motor makes 10 ft lb of torque, and you have a 1:1 pulley ratio, like a lot of people here. That belt has to transfer 10 ft lb of torque to the transmission. Now the transmission says has a gear ratio of 5:1 the torque coming out at the axles will be 50 ft lbs. belts aren't made to transfer that much torque

Oh, I see what your sayin, I can always try it, and if it doesn't wrk swap pulleys and belts for sprockets and chains, and run 4x4 all the time till I make the jack shaft setup to disengage it

true story, hopefully it works out for ya as is

i have an idea for you, use the gear selector shaft off of a peerless 700 transmission, (the shaft with the shift keys on it), where the bushings go is 5/8 od so you could run it on high speed bearings, the original sprocket for the reverse gear you can leave in place for your front axle drive, then for the rear axle drive you can get a sprocket with a bore the same size as the od of the shaft and straight weld it onto it, actually cut that because my picture that i will ad displays that the output sprocket is actually on this shaft already, hopefully this might help with your problems!

technically you could use any shaft out of a transaxle most 3/4 axle shaft transaxles use the same brass bushings wich makes the shafts 5/8 od so you can run bearings on it, and these shafts have the disc brake on them and are spline, you might be better off finding one with a key way so it would be easier to match the sprocket size to the reverse sprocket

redzz02 wrote:

technically you could use any shaft out of a transaxle most 3/4 axle shaft transaxles use the same brass bushings wich makes the shafts 5/8 od so you can run bearings on it, and these shafts have the disc brake on them and are spline, you might be better off finding one with a key way so it would be easier to match the sprocket size to the reverse sprocket

so your for the chain drive idea to? How do you think the belts will work?

Hey, Geneva, since I live near you and I have a RAGB with two shafts coming off of it, I'm wondering if I could sell it to you. The input shaft is 1" thick, and the output shafts on either side are about 1 1/2inches thick, all with keyways. Its got a cast iron case and it works perfectly, it's oil filled, and has threaded mounting holes in a 4 bolt pattern on the corners of it, on either side. here's a pic of what it is.

How are you going to make wheel hubs?