next race mower project?

if i ever get enough money here i'll start the build log. i have and 11hp or a 12hp briggs flathead to use a 915 4 speed peerless or a 920? 6 speed peerless i can use as of now, i also have a 7" front pulley and plan on getting a 4" rear. i also have built my double pulley clutch. i plan on building a fully adjustable front axle and custom frame it's gonna sit about how it does in the pictures

i will probably be filling in all the holes and using polished aluminum diamond plate to fill all the holes and use as footrest grip, i will be building a custom seat, custom frame, direct steering. i also plan on widening some wheels to give it a better stance.

Dont forget to build your spindles with the right adjustments. One of the Mowrons can help you out.

yeah i've been doing some research on it, i have a general idea but would love some extra advice on how to go about it

Response from a Mowron...

We run up to 45 mph on our tractors and they ride smooth and track nice and straight.
The secret is in the spindle angles.  
We run 0 degrees Tow, 0 degrees camber, and +10 degrees caster.  Stretch custom fabbed front axles for all 5 of our tractors. Check the build thread in my sig for an example.

Of course when you're running that kind of speed, also upgrading all of your steering linkage and steering box is highly recommended.

my grandpa has that same tractor. kinda brings a tear to my eye to see one go like that, but i also like to see it go, its just too small for me to fit comfortably. anyway, its a good start. solid body. id reccomend doing direct steer, i'll look around for the thread tomorrow and post it in here, or PM. id also invest in some heavy duty spindles from BMI karts. AYP is notorious for weak spindles..

I was planning to build direct steering, and i'm also gonna tig weld some 5/8" grade 8 bolts onto 1" high carbon steel tube , i was also going to weld some 5/8" id to 1" od high carbon steel to build a strong set of spindles, then i was also planning 1" to 5/8" brass bushings or bearings, and using a 5/8" grade 8 for the spindle kingpin

here is that direct steer thread if you need it. you sound like you know what youre doing though. https://www.atltf.com/t1773-direct-steering-how-to-reference

Thanks! always need a reference so i don't screw it up I've been doing tons of research, so my first time doing it is sucessful

good luck on it

Thanks, i started on one then it turned to crap so this time it's gotta be right!

Nice lay out. Stock frame?

TheRainbowBoxer wrote:

Response from a Mowron...

We run up to 45 mph on our tractors and they ride smooth and track nice and straight.
The secret is in the spindle angles.  
We run 0 degrees Tow, 0 degrees camber, and +10 degrees caster.  Stretch custom fabbed front axles for all 5 of our tractors. Check the build thread in my sig for an example.

Of course when you're running that kind of speed, also upgrading all of your steering linkage and steering box is highly recommended.

Bein' a speedy kinda guy myself, I tend to build my stuff fairly similarly. 0-1* Toe, 0* camber (hold that thought) and 8-12* Caster. What I don't see in your list is KPI. I tend to build in about 10* KPI. You?

Have not done intentional kpi... meaning it is whatever it is. Must be pretty OK because it turns good both on and off road.

KPI is king pin inclination, I believe. Yep I just googled it to make sure. Caster is the angle that the steering pivots on from the side, kpi is the same pivot points but from the front

so i guess i can't start work on this project until i build a bathtub for my mom, it's for dogs and she says she'll pay for my steel if i build her this bathtub, so may be a while before i start updating

so basically an industrial sink? do it in diamond plate. lol

yes! like exactly! that's a great idea too! make it look good

so should i lock the transaxle or leave it open? i would prefer it open for handling but what would the advantages be if it was locked?

its going to be a racer right?

yeah, kinda sorta, i don't really know if we have a racing team or anything like that out here in Washington, but we have drags like once a year just a few miles up the road, and i know alot of people who think there atv's and lawnmowers are hot sh** lol

i know i probably won't beat there 500cc 4 cylinders off the line but hell, my 12hp turns some rpms hopefully i would outrun them with speed, although they may have a race with stock parts, i'll have to look into it

id leave it unlocked. high speeds on pavement could be disasterous. it would either hand-grenade or you would loose a good bit of steering at speed

Hey is it WA state or DC? If its WA State check out the Pacific Northwest Trail and Mud mowers on FB

Lock that sucker... traction! A well engineered frontend will perform wonderfully on and off road at speed. Being a go kart nut in my spare time (lol) , I can promise you that. Just remember that we are NOT talking about stock geometry here. It is best to fab a new front axle for this purpose.