1994 Rally build, basic and no money spent!

FINALLY an update, I got a nice little Kodak C633 6.1 MP camera for 40$, time for pics again. Just wish I had pics of the latest fabs.

Front bumper and skid plate. Bumper off my old Rally racer and skid plate is a deck mounting bracket off an old Craftsman.


25x13" ATV tires, super beefy. Almost unstoppable now !!


Super wide stance


Racer vs off-roader. The rear tires on the racer is the size I used to have on the Off-roader, what a change.


Custom built front axle, I took 1 1/2" x1/4" angle iron welded into a rectangular tube with 3/4" id. 1/4" thick wall pipe for spindle tubes.


Sway bar end links off Toyota and Ford cars for tie-rod ends and steering links, no more play and a lot tougher.


Skid plates. Old Rally racer frame for main plate, seat mounting plate for middle, and custom bent rear transmission plate, all 1/8" steel. This thing is so heavy now it can take out small trees.


So this is what I have been up to, have had it out on and off the trails alot, working excellent, the steering is now perfect, all I really need is a bushguard to protect my lights, I broke both in the past 3 days.

Very cool upgrades - the under chassis skid plate is a good idea- a thing you might want to do tho is weld bolts on the inside of the chassis and like wing nuts on the outside - for quick access if needed. You might also want to reinforce those stock spindles as well .

I like the idea of using automotive type tie rod ends - greaseable n heavy duty.

man that thing is sweet

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

Very cool upgrades - the under chassis skid plate is a good idea- a thing you might want to do tho is weld bolts on the inside of the chassis and like wing nuts on the outside - for quick access if needed. You might also want to reinforce those stock spindles as well .

I like the idea of using automotive type tie rod ends - greaseable n heavy duty.

I was thinking of some sort of welded bolts as well, but the plate is so fussy to get in place it just wouldn't work. It only takes about 10 minutes with a wrench and ratchet to remove, plus the old engine hole allows access to most stuff. And the tie rod ends work awesomely, they have more range of motion and no play, the steering is now tighter than new stock. The spindles are extremely tight in the axle as well, I was barely able to get them in the with the stock paper-thin nylon bushings. But once greased and driven they're loosened up just enough. I'm surprised how strong these 3/4' spindles are compared to the 5/8" on my Yard-Man. I have never been able to bend them in the years of mowers. The 5/8" on the other hand bend with one hard-landed wheelie:S I've been slamming rocks, trees, wheelie-ing and I can't seem to budge the 3/4" spindles. I'm really happy with the results of the front end setup.

Like the tie rod ends too, gonna have to see about doing that myself!
Very tough looking machine now

Ford Boi : I remeber somewhere you said something about breaking your tractor headlights - i bot a set of 2 LED super bright 'off road' lights at Advance auto - theyre about an 1" high by 3 " wide - ill put em on something just to see how bright they really are.

dangeroustoys56 wrote:

Ford Boi : I remeber somewhere you said something about breaking your tractor headlights - i bot a set of 2 LED super bright 'off road' lights at Advance auto - theyre about an 1" high by 3 " wide - ill put em on something just to see how bright they really are.

Cool! I was thinking just the other day about finding LED's after seeing my friend's 1 AAA mini LED light. Would surely draw less juice, but I still need a bush guard to protect them if they're glass. Both my lenses are shattered but still in place and 1 bulb still works lol !!

Im all for LEDs. Even use them on my car.
But dfeinatly putting them on my mudder. That and theyre more resistant to shock, and as you said, draw less.
All round winner to be honest

Ford Boi: Theyre plastic - theres like 9 LED's in each light , and theyre really small - you should be good for not breaking em. Even comes with a harness and switch - it was on clearance for like $9 at advance auto( i like looking thru the clearance table - usually have good stuff there) .


I used to use 2 single bulb LED flashlights when i went runner sledding at nite at the local library hill years ago - i taped them to the steering bar- would light up the whole area in front of the sled.

I temporarily hooked up those blue LEDs on my 85 craftsman once back north years ago - just one set of 6 singles lit it up pretty good . I had planned on putting 4 sets on it- LOL! Maybe ill look for a set of red LED's for the mild mod MTD .

Dang- need to get these things finished....

I gotta look into better lighting for sure.... cuz I LOVE night wheeling and also love tree-slaying.... and also love that halogen mile-wide beam of intense brightness... but I'm sick of smashing my glass... And I'm too lazy lately to build a bush-guard, I've been enjoying driving the thing more than anything else, now that I know I can go where a Honda 300 4x4 can't!!!!!

I went to tenessee last week- we visited my wifes reletives - one lived like waaaaaay in the boonies down in dualing banjo territory . Her aunt mentioned everyone runs around with ATV's - i was like " id mod a few lawntractors and knock those ATV's into the weeds "- was like perfect out there for just flat out hauling, lots of hills, all dirt/stone roads and also lots of twists and turns. Makes me want to buy a place out there for vacations- only problem is its 10 hrs away from here......

did you weld in a sprocket on one of your rear wheels as part of making hubs for the transaxle? Smart

The rims were like that when I got them, so I just worked with what I had, cut and welded in some old hubs from lawnmower rims that were no good. Simple & quick and works great lol. also makes foe some massive off-set!

I think your exhaust looks badass as well man good work