how many rpms

Haha dang, well heres something. I wouldn't worry about the flywheel exploding due to high revs since it's hardened steel, but rather braking a rod. It's a hit and miss situation, some engines will last awhile without a governor, and others wont last 5 minutes, it all depends. I would suggest a billet flywheel later on, but just to romp ungoverned get a billet rod. If you have a 12.5hp briggs you can run a 31ci OHV rod in them rather then the billet and they last a long long time (much stronger then the stock rods of a flatty 28ci briggs).

how hard is it to rewire this bad boys

This is a basic wiring setup that I use on my racing mower/mud mower. If you want to run lights/charging etc you will have to wire a few other things up, but this is your basic setup to get it runnin without the key and all that. Use a push button and killswitch (toggle switch, tethered switch, which ever).

Made this to show you:



If you want to run it with charging you'll need to run a pretty heavy gauge wire from your stator wire (comes out under your flywheel) to the 12v full time connector on the solenoid (the wire going to the solenoid from the battery is constent 12v, the other side going to the starter isn't).

Example:



Now lights I'm too sure about, I'd imagine you have to run a wire from your solenoid (constant 12v side like the stator) to a fuse, then to a switch, then to the lights, and then ground them (I think). I'm not for sure though, might need someone to help you on that one if you want to run lights.

ok thank you i just got to find were the wires go since everything fried

Just rewire from scratch using that wiring diagram I made. Take the key out, all the safety sensors out and get some good gauge wire and rewire it. You say everything, you talkin about like the solenoid, starter, all that?

starter is fine i dont know about seloniod the recharg wires are fried and go to figure out the magneto because i can get spark but only if i dont ground the ground wire and sorry about spelling in a hurry

Stay under 4 grand and you'll live. Most small air cooled engines have the torque figures drop off after 3500. It makes no sense to be redlining all the time. Makes too much noise and no power (no more tthan you got back down at 3600). For atlts the only max speed there should ever be is 3600. Maybe 4000 for ohvs. But all lawn mowers are made to run at 3600 all day no matter what so keep it there or under if youre not aftermarket.

Ahh- I see this has popped up again. For a more detailed explanation, and maybe a bit of mythbusting, head here---> https://www.atltf.com/t2575-governors-flywheels-and-an-internet-full-of-crap

(I also have no idea why this is in the Diesel section, but I'm moving it now...)

BTW- FWIW- On our type of engines, torque peak occurs around 2600 RPM and declines from there, NOT 3500RPM. Peak HP tends to decline in the 3600-3800 range. I have several HP and torque curve charts from a broad range of engines to refer to. However- let's not lose sight of the fact that engine RPM directly correlates to wheel speed, so an increase in maximum engine RPM can certainly have it's benefits. Of course, if gearing is too tall the engine may not produce enough torque to attain the projected speed, and all of this is much less necessary with the advantages of a multi-speed transmission- but the story really does need to be told from both sides. It IS a fair statement that most of the tractor types we see in these forums don't really necessitate large increases in maximum RPM.

And this-

jack9102 wrote:

Stay under 4 grand and you'll live.

if it were true, I'd be dead many times over. Just sayin'.