Tiny tractor build.

New bushings will make a world of difference. Also replacing any ball joints where you can.

MightyRaze wrote:

New bushings will make a world of difference.  Also replacing any ball joints where you can.

Was unable to find the part number. Don't happen to have it, do you?

Seemed to me like you could drill out the holes in the steering box to 7/8 and put in bronze bushings. I know they have to be 3/4 bore but that’s about all I remember.

Ifitaintbroke wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

New bushings will make a world of difference.  Also replacing any ball joints where you can.

Was unable to find the part number. Don't happen to have it, do you?

That model have the silly plastic (sometimes lucky cast steel) part?  (Going by the Model 917.2559101)

There are LOTS of places that contribute to steering slop on these.

Part 41, least likely to be worn, but check it. 9038R

Part 85 Could be rounded out.  I don't think these can be found anymore.  Suggestion: Replace with a brass tub/bushing.  I don't remmember the size, but you can measure the bolt width and hole size to slide it in.

Parts 70/71 Tie Rod ends.  Replacement parts Left/Right.

Part 31: Bushing - Very likely worn 104239X

Part 21: Drag link, Likely worn out  You can either get a new one or cut the ends off run it through a die to add servicable ball joints or heims.  What I have done is, cut the ends off, weld a bolt to the ends and put on ball joint/heims.

EX:





Not circled is the bell crank bushing itself (part 24).  Being creative here like drilling out and putting in a brass sleeve if in bad condition.  Or, you may be able to source a good on on EBAY.

#31 is where at least 80% of the slop is coming from. I looked at it and it's egg shaped inside. Completely gone.

That's typical.  Not too much to replace.  Maybe even get it off searspartsdirect.com

Thinking about a foot throttle, but not finding much that I like. I guess I can use a bicycle handle, but that seems kinda janky. Whole tractor is janky tho.

My go-to is the bike peg on some kinda pivoting arm and some bike brake cable.

You can buy bulk cable and conduit housing from BMI to build custom throttles and brake cables.

Galvanized Conduit - 3/16'' x 50' Roll

https://www.bmikarts.com/Galvanized-Conduit--316-x-50-Roll_p_28174.html

Though for how many people use foot throttles and no governor, I would probably go with a cable inside a plastic OEM housing and crimp my own connectors on the end. Then add a return spring. In the FWIW category, I have repurposed 1986-1988 Ranger 2.9 throttle cables to put on different vehicles because both ends have ferrules commonly used on other equipment. Plus, you can get a bracket from Summit Racing for the square part to hold it on or near a carb.

May try the bicycle thing. Kinda wondering how practical a foot throttle will be on a tractor that's being used as a tractor.

Something like this might work

> Kinda wondering how practical a foot throttle will be on a tractor that's being used as a tractor.

I was considering using a slide carb. or something on my LT/GT so I could avoid cheap repo carbs on Amazon since places such as ereplacements want $300-$400 for supposedly real OEM B&S carbs.

But, I use mine for tractor stuff, not racing, so, I decided to keep the governor setups and seek a different solution. If I am pulling a trailer or mowing a lawn I really do not need to keep my foot constantly on and off throttle to stay at the same slow pace, while using a manual transaxle.

That aluminum pedal looks nice.

That pedal looks great, and the price is good too. Question is, do you HAVE to bypass the governor to use a foot throttle? Can't you just hooked it up where the current throttle cable is?

Another thing, these oppy carbs are weird. Thing runs great, but only if I give it a lot of choke. If I open the choke all the way, it surges and backfires a lot, and tries to shut off. I'm wondering if that could be a blockage issue. The choke being engaged would increase the venturi vacuum and richen the mixture. My guess is that it's leaning out when I open the choke. Idk. A slide carb sounds cool, but I'm sure there would be no way to hook that up to the governor. I seem to remember someone talking about a rev limiter setup, so that could be an alternative.

@Ifitaintbroke you can absolutely leave the governor as for doing normal tractor stuff you can actually run two throttles one for a foot pedal and one for a Dash throttle. I think  @MightyRaze did that on TRB

I run normal throttle on all tractors then the foot is a gov override to give it the onions when needed. 7 years now no problem. Briggs and Kohler

Dash throttle is fixed. Just needed a new cable. Might add a foot throttle later, but I have bigger issues right now. Steering shaft is trashed. Completely gone. A new bushing is almost as loose as the old one. The shaft is apparently unobtanium, so I will have to come up with something custom. A rack and pinion would be the best option, but I'm not really sure how to mount one, or how the steering shaft will work out. The other option, and someone on here has done this before, would be the Volkswagen Beetle steering box. Seems simpler, but I have to find one.

If Stone Mountain is not too far I have four LTs I bought for my 6x6 that I am scrapping.

The JD LX-173 is down to the console, front end and steering, and engine. Once i get the Kawasaki running that will be available, maybe a week. I have an older Murray ready to go. I was thinking about stripping the steering myself, but, I am not attached to it, just do not want to waste parts no longer available. I have some sort of Poulan that I will probably scrap once I get the transaxle out.

There is a guy on CL selling a running and cutting Ariens with a 17.5 HP engine in Athens for $125, that might be a good deal for you. I was going to buy it myself, but, very busy thinning the herd and working on my projects, firewood, and farming. Another in Athens is selling a JD (no deck) for $200.

JB_4x4 wrote:

If Stone Mountain is not too far I have four LTs I bought for my 6x6 that I am scrapping.  

The JD LX-173 is down to the console, front end and steering, and engine.  Once i get the Kawasaki running that will be available, maybe a week.  I have an older Murray ready to go.  I was thinking about stripping the steering myself, but, I am not attached to it, just do not want to waste parts no longer available.  I have some sort of Poulan that I will probably scrap once I get the transaxle out.

There is a guy on CL selling a running and cutting Ariens with a 17.5 HP engine in Athens for $125, that might be a good deal for you.  I was going to buy it myself, but, very busy thinning the herd and working on my projects, firewood, and farming.  Another in Athens is selling a JD (no deck) for $200.

How much for the LTs and JD? And what kind of engine is in the JD?

Oppy doesn't want to run at less than half choke. Runs great, until I push the choke in more than half, then it surges and if I push the choke all the way in, it will try to shut off. I can tell it's running lean. Throttle shaft wear a possibility, but I may also try enlarging the main jet. Idk.

> How much for the LTs and JD?

Free, I will take pictures later.

> And what kind of engine is in the JD

Kawasaki, decided to not trash the engine, because after squirting oil into the plug hole, then turning by hand, then doing a dry compression test, it showed 110+ psi. I forget the model and specs, I have to look it up. I just have been too busy to throw the new repro fuel pump and carb on it.

Bottom half of the 4 screw oppy carb there is an emulsion tube that can be unscrewed out.  It may need cleaned good.

JB_4x4 wrote:

>  How much for the LTs and JD?

Free, I will take pictures later.

> And what kind of engine is in the JD

Kawasaki, decided to not trash the engine, because after squirting oil into the plug hole, then turning by hand, then doing a dry compression test, it showed 110+ psi.  I forget the model and specs, I have to look it up.  I just have been too busy to throw the new repro fuel pump and carb on it.

Thanks.

MightyRaze wrote:

Bottom half of the 4 screw oppy carb there is an emulsion tube that can be unscrewed out.  It may need cleaned good.

It's always run like this, since I rebuilt the engine and carb. I cleaned the whole carb several times in my ultrasonic cleaner. But ethanol gas.......

Ifitaintbroke wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

Bottom half of the 4 screw oppy carb there is an emulsion tube that can be unscrewed out.  It may need cleaned good.

It's always run like this, since I rebuilt the engine and carb. I cleaned the whole carb several times in my ultrasonic cleaner. But ethanol gas.......

Come to think of it, it's always run like that. Likes a lot of choke.

Steering shaft is fixed. Welded it up, and took it to my machinist. 10 minutes on the lathe and the bushing fit tight. Cut a groove for the snap ring and it's good to go. And he didnt even charge me. It is installed, but I need to address the sector gear bushing.
Tractor is its current state:



@ranch king pro 08

I seem to be getting over my fear of 2 strokes: