Dirty Rat - Sears

Uhhh, I think here you kinda are indoctrinated with the metric system, I always have to convert MPH to KPH But, yeah, I have the same "screaming pulley" problem, thought it was the trans before, it's quieter with the new one, but still screams, are you sure your input bearings are OK?

Not screaming.  But noisy in the middle where the idler is located.  It's an original so I'll check that first. I changed out the clutch pulley about 5 years ago, but it seems flimsy.

All the pulleys were fine.  I think my belt was rubbing the transaxle belt guide.  Not sure at this time. I'll keep an eye on it for a bit.

As I mentioned over in the "OFF-Topic Anything 2022" thread, I scored a set of freebie tires with wheels.

MightyRaze wrote:

Got me some freebies today!  Neighbor had them on his zero turn and they kept loosening his lugs. Started wallowing his lug holes. Guy at his dealership said it was due to too much traction.  Not sure how I feel about that, but I can maybe see that with a zero turn.  Either way, he came up to me and asked if I wanted them.



They seem to be a bit over inflated.  I'll bring them down.  Curious if they would fit on the dirty rat for looser dirt?

Well, they do work on the Dirty Rat.  SO... I guess I have a flat and trail mode for TDR!





Amazing the difference in a 23x10.5x12 (left) and a 22x10x8 (right).

that is crazy how much difference between the two when in reality it should only be 1 inch on the outside diameter

MightyRaze wrote:

Took a little stroll today and I think either the clutch or idler pulley may need replaced.  There is a pulley not happy somewhere.  Will need to take care of that soon.  I was thinking of putting the 4 on 4 hubs on the front but decided not to do that.  I have the original wheels pretty dialed.   That and they are actually easier to remove than the 4 lugs if needed.

Did some measuring.

Front axle 36" wide.
Rear axle 41"wide.
Length 76" long.

Top speed to date is 25mph / 40.2kph

OK, I stewed on it a few days and I have decided to go ahead and put the 4on4 hubs on the front.  I have some new rims coming next week to put the tire over on.  This will more than likely change the front wheel spacing.  I have some thoughts on my absolute final video for the build-off but need to figure out how to transport it.  I really need a trailer.

Just swing on by and borrow one of my trailers... you should try to find an old tent trailer, you can often get them for free or next to nothing, they make okay utility trailers if you rip the tent stuff off and add a deck.

Aye... in the stormy season now.  Had lots of rain the past week.  Going to be a bit of a delay for my final, final video.  I have a little something for it if I can pull it off.

5000 views for @MightyRaze's Dirty Rat! Congratulations my man!

I second that @MightyRaze 5000 Views is quit impressive Congratulations !

Well, I did another little upgrade for the Dirty Rat.  This one I have to hand it to the Wheel Horse Guys.

@Creepycrawler
Don't know if there is a video on his site?  I don't remember seeing it.  Maybe he can point it to me.

@Crazy_Carl
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ5Go5iT8Kw

@Wheelinhorse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXeDgYEX5_0



It's super wet outside, so I haven't tested it yet.  Not ready to thrash dirt all over the tractor yet.  I will.











Yep, I made a belt guard to hold belt slack like the Wheelie guys.

MightyRaze wrote:

OK, I stewed on it a few days and I have decided to go ahead and put the 4on4 hubs on the front.  I have some new rims coming next week to put the tire over on. 

Well this sux.  Got notice that the wheels will not ship this week but in 2023?  WHAT??  Started hitting some other sites and they are unavailable in the size I need.  I was able to find them on one site.  Shipping is a bit more but they say they have them.

That's a mean looking tractor, sorry to hear about the wheel situation hopefully you'll be able to find a good alternative, 6 months is a ridiculous time to have to wait for some wheels.

OK, got the wheels from my secondary source.  Got them installed and rode it around a little today to see what tweaks needed to be done.







Two things I found needing work.  My left front tire isn't completely seated.  Has a little bit of wobble.  Just need to reseat it.

The other thing is brakes.  I have no pads left.  I need to repad the brakes.

These are what they "SHOULD" looks like.

Got some brake material that I use on the band brakes of my Sears and Craftsman. I'll see how it does with a disk style pad. It is expected on Wednesday. Maybe Thurs I'll have it done?

Didn't show it on the GT6k topic, but here is my brake fix for the GT6000.



This is the 3rd time I have done it with 100% success. I'm hoping to use the same principles with this tractor.

I have new brake material coming in tomorrow.  Maybe I can get them adheard tomorrow and have it ready for this weekend.  Maybe I can get the Final-Final video for the build done soon.  Then I will chock the rest of the year up to playing with it!

Old pads are cleaned of what was left of the old brake material and ready for new material to be attached!

My new brake material came in super early this morning.  I got it cut up and jbwelded to the pad backs.  I'll give it 24hrs and then I'll reinstall!





If this does not give me better braking, I may need to look into plan B.

Brake pads helped but only marginally.  Still does not lock the wheels, just comes to a slow "quicker" stop.  I was checking my brake rod travel.  It's only going 1/4 to almost 1/2-inch travel.  Not enough for tension or engage the spring well.  I did some checking from the Murray the transaxle came from and the difference being:  The Sears brake link is only about 1 inch from the brake pedal rod.  The Murray brake link is about 2.75 inches from the rod.  Obviously, geometry says that will create way more back-forth motion in the brake rod.  So... plan A is to extend the sears brake link.  Plan B is to scrap the brake setup I have now and try something new.




Note the distance (yellow) between the engagement point (blue line) and full brake (line with dot).  Heck, the engagement point on the longer lines should actually be closer to the start point (non-dot line)  So there could potentially be even more brake rod travel.

Brake extension works GREAT!  I can lock them up hard now!  Amazing what a little geometry does.  Now I need to tweak that clutch/brake point.  I know I could bust them apart, but I think I will be fine.



Should I need to later, I can weld it in.  I left a lip so there is no play.

That was an excellent idea, nice work!

So... with the new brake pads and the lever extension which did not move in riding today, I ended up having to adjust that link out about 6 rounds.  That's nearly an inch difference on the rod.  I could possibly go 7-8 rounds.  I'll stick with 6 as the brakes are almost to that work/don't work spot.  Feels good on the foot.  My new problem, well... existing problem was the clutch.  I seem to be getting good slack, but not getting any belt release on the pulleys.  Hard shifting and almost stalling the engine now when braking.  I sat and stewed on it for a while.  Then it hit me...  My super cool transaxle belt guide was too close to the trans pulley to allow it to disengage the trans.

Before:


After:


This made a world of difference now!  Shifting was much easier!  I'll call that a WIN!

Glad to hear you got that sorted out !

Went ahead and did the Holey Pulley mod on the Dirty Rat.

Thanks to @Mister_Studabaker, the Wheel Horse community @ Ohio Offroad, and @redzz02 for the idea.

This mod is extremely effective.  After burying my tractor in muddy water the clutch did not slip and when I got the tractor home I looked in the holes on the engine pulley and could see dried mud that the belt pushed out of the holes.

I hadn't seen this mod before but it makes since ! i like it and see it in my future.