Dynamak racing mower build

I have a big race coming up on the 4th of July and my old racer is junk so instead of fixing it I am starting fress. Picures coming as soon as I can figur out how to do it I am new. I put a 18 hp aposed twin on it and just like I did on my old one I put a bike handel brack for the gas pedal. Then I locked the front and rear ends.(by front I put two bolts in so it didn't have that flex in the front when you are going 50mph that can make you tip over prety fast.) Then it was time to speed it up I put a 10'' pully on the engine and a 4'' pully on the trany and in 5th gear the trany is 2 to 1.5. Has to be a belt and original cluch lawn mower cluch wher I race but I got mine off of a old murry.




The moter instaled and runing.



Not much room between the engine and the hood it was a tight sqeez to get my fingers in there.

Next is the gas pedal and exost and locking both of the axels.

I got it done I used a bike brake like feerles.

For the ratios and speed you are talking about you are going to have to set up steering similar to a go kart or 'direct steer'. I would also highly recommend lowering whole frame to lower your Center of gravity, making it a lot more stable.

Yepper, i learned over the years stock and speed dont mix - my last scarey fast tractor was 90% stock and im darn sure it could go over 50mph . After some near misses with the ground, i wont build anything anymore w/o proper brakes, lowering, ect.

It is stock highth but i lowerd the frount a little the axel is all the way up to the frame and locked steering has to stay the same and I have not had a problem yet.
I know that locking the stearing helped a lot. 18x8.50x8 tires on the back I don't remember the front ones but they are not the original front ones.
Any one have a good Idea for brackes that is cheap!
The rules for were I race is stock stearing NO drict srear or I would they prefer you dont lock the rear ether but I got them to chang that one I said that they would lose me if I had to put a new tany in it. That didn't fly with the stearing tough. But I have not had a problem with it yet.

well I got a choke and wiring done the last cuple days I think I am going to elimenat a fuse though. I put a 1988 F350 starter silenoid in it it was all I had it works.

I got the belts all lined up and not falling off as fast as they are going I had to put lots of guids on it. sorry for no updates for so long.

me and my buddy made his craftsman II go 40+mph stock with just new pulleys and past 4th gear it got a little squirly and almost flipped a couple of times goin down the road haha fun stuff, he also set a track record in the modified class against mowers with nitrous in my town for the anual mower races

why didn't I look at this first I got all in to this mower and restarting fresh but guss what it is 3'' to short so I had to go back to the other frame back on the homelight frame and all is good. I need to figur out if I am just going to run a raguler clutch or a centrifical the problem is all the centrificals I see are rated at 12-13 not 18 without a govener. lookin for ideas!!
Right now I am working on making it the altumit trany. It will be welded spiders, oil filed with drain and fill plugs, and gress zerts on the spindels.

I droped my camera so I need to get a new one no pics till I figure it out I do have and ipod touch does it all work the same I just got it like 3 weeks ago and have not realy used it I don't even know if it takes good ones. How would I upload them from there?

So this is the first to second trany lockdipends what you count as a lock this one was the first welded one. I cant wait to try it out the last one I bolted and it started to brack / slip I dont know.

spell check is your friend... use it.

I'm out. trying to read this shit is giving me a headache.