2055 White resto modding “White Lightning”

Too bad we all dont live a little closer to eachother. My dad works at a place that makes o-rings and also hydraulic fittings.

So I got all the engine tins off to repaint them, and they turned out nice. Looking at the coil packs, it seems the steel layers or windings or whatever they are called are separating. I still can get spark out of them but I’d rather replace them now and save the headache of an inevitable failure. Anybody here tried the top shelf aftermarket coils? (Ie stens, rotary, Oregon, etc). The Briggs coils are about 50 a piece and I’d rather not shell out that much for new coils when the current ones still work. Or should I just glue the coils back together?

I haven't tried the Stens or Oregon coils themselves but both companies seem to make decent products based on stuff I've bought, I find Stens seems equal quality for a few bucks less.

Alot of times you can remove the ignition module from the steel laminated "frame" without causing damage, there's weird little clips you need to open while trying to press the frame out, some are bonded though and can't be disassembled. Was thinking you may be able to soak it in white vinegar for awhile to eat the rust then use fine grit sandpaper between the laminations to clean it up real good, not sure how bad they are though without pictures...

Can you tell I'm used to doing bush repairs with little to nothing at hand!! Lol

Yeah the laminations are the problem. Here’s some pictures for reference:



Put a picture in of how she sits now too.

I wouldn't even worry about that,  try to clean inbetween with sandpaper, clean the edges that face the magnet until there's clean bright metal, do the same for the magnet on the flywheel, clean the mounting points and you'll have good strong spark if the coil itself is good. I've cleaned up coils that look much worse and they've worked fine. Best to do it by hand with sandpaper, a wire wheel can tear it apart then you're up the creek! A light film of dielectric grease will prevent future corrosion/rust. You got this!  Lol

The Mud Ducks coil looked similar to yours and I haven't had a issue since I cleaned it up nice,  check it out here. https://www.atltf.com/t6824p15-bo-brianator-s-mud-duck-tractor-recovery-rig-mudder

Tractor looks nice, it's a good clean machine! I like the pool ball shifter knob too that's awesome!

Good to know, thanks for the input! I’ll definitely try and save the coils for the time being. And thanks for the kind words! Also I got to thinking… since this thing is essentially getting a ground-up restoration with basically everything I did previously being redone, should I enter the build-off? I don’t know if I’m currently compliant with the 40% rule but all I’ve done so far is the teardown and engine paint. Not an offroad tractor as much as a working toy so I dunno. What do you say @MightyRaze?

It's 50% so you have more room. If you feel you are not halfway done, then go for it! We should probably lock this thread when you do, that way when you are done with the build-off. I can merge that topic with this one and not get out of sync and open it back up. What is your thought on that?

Sounds like a good idea, I would encourage you to join the party, just don't fall into the trap of rushing or wasting money on behalf of the BO, just take your time, If you finish, you finish, if you don't, you don't. That's life don't sweat it too much.

Locking the thread is fine. I’ll get the sign made tonight and I’ll start the new topic shortly after.

I definitely have done less than 50% so should be a plan there!

#Buildoff2022

Hello all! This is a continuation of my existing MTD White Build. This is the original thread.



Overview

The goal is to do a complete restoration of this tractor with some customizations applied. This includes:

-Engine refresh
-Transaxle rebuild
-New hydraulic lines
-New wiring harness
-tighten steering slop
-Fresh paint job done right (from bare steel)
-Front axle rebuild and 4 on 4 trailer hub conversion
-New tires (or at least new to me)
-Fit custom muffler and custom hood
-If possible a matching trailer done with larch planks

Background

I bought this tractor for $200 two years ago. It’s a model 992 MTD, and has a 20hp Vanguard Twin. Has a 2 barrel Nikki, and has a 35 cubic inch displacement. The transmission is an Eaton 11 mated to a Peerless 2500. This is a shaft-drive hydro that can reach upwards of 800 foot pounds of torque in low range.

Anything else I have to add will be listed later.

This is the end of the thread for a while. You can continue to read up on the tractor here.

Welcome to the party man!

So you know you posted your entry in the wrong section bit worry not because I'm sure @MightyRaze will fix that then you can edit your above link before he locks the this thread (I tagged him here to see)

Whoops! Thanks for letting me know!

[adm]Welcome Officially to the Build-Off.  I took care of the schematics of topic location.  I'm going to lock your other for the time being.

[/adm]

[adm]Locked for Build-Off[/adm]

Welcome to the BO cult... ture 

[adm]Sorry @Rustbucket Garage I forgot to attach your badge and put you in the group.  That has been completed now.[/adm]

No worries. I hardly noticed lol.

I got all the engine tins repainted and the carburetor has been cleaned. My jet for cyl # 2 and needle arrived (both NOS) and I got them installed. The float now sits more level, but there is some play between the float and needle. Not sure if that’s a problem but I doubt it. Got to get the throttle seal, a couple gaskets, a solenoid plug, and the carburetor is done!

I’m also going to splurge on a complete engine gasket set, so I intend to pull both heads, clean the pistons, lap the valves, and all that good stuff.

Thought I’d mention as a side note too here that I know progress has been slow but I’ve been sick and before that very stressed these last couple of weeks. After everything it turns out I lost 20 lbs and I’m averaging about 5-6 hours of sleep a night which isn’t helping. I’m going to order some parts next week and see about doing a leak down test, but I need to borrow the tool from a buddy. So anyways it’s not a fast-paced thing but it’ll be picking up a little here before too much longer.

Relax man you have 7 months until the deadline! Rest up, get well then get after it! Lol

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

Thought I’d mention as a side note too here that I know progress has been slow but I’ve been sick and before that very stressed these last couple of weeks. After everything it turns out I lost 20 lbs and I’m averaging about 5-6 hours of sleep a night which isn’t helping. I’m going to order some parts next week and see about doing a leak down test, but I need to borrow the tool from a buddy. So anyways it’s not a fast-paced thing but it’ll be picking up a little here before too much longer.

Have fun with it, don't stress over it.

I have just gotten enough parts to start on the front axle of mine and in fact just today came home from work and took one of the pieces of 3.5" round steel stock and turned it on the lathe just to see how rough it is-I'll have a lot of lathe time on these.

My goal for the build off project is NOT to take it out in the woods and beat the snot out of it but to use it around the property to do lots of work for me as I beat the snot out of it.

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

Thought I’d mention as a side note too here that I know progress has been slow but I’ve been sick and before that very stressed these last couple of weeks. After everything it turns out I lost 20 lbs and I’m averaging about 5-6 hours of sleep a night which isn’t helping. I’m going to order some parts next week and see about doing a leak down test, but I need to borrow the tool from a buddy. So anyways it’s not a fast-paced thing but it’ll be picking up a little here before too much longer.

Yep, I was sick last week too, pretty nasty stomach flu going around down here.

Welp, been a hot minute since I've been in here last. Currently waiting on engine parts. Decided to get a full gasket set. I removed the flywheel and I found out why the charging system was weak. The alternator was COVERED in grease from a leaky crank seal. Nasty nasty nasty. I'm probably going to pull the motor sometime soon to replace the rear PTO seal and then we'll get it back together and reinstall. I also decided to rebuild the starter, and that is also waiting on a new gear and brush retainer (old one was broken at the stud).

I also got a lead on an oil cooler for pretty cheap so I'm going to nab that for the old briggs too.
Next update should be 3 weeks or so out.

I intend to repaint the stock hood for the heck of it and I'm debating between the stock white or the silver that came on the older whites. Let me know what you think!

Well I got bored so I made a vidya on the youtube here.

Well I’m not dead. Had some time to putter so I made these trim panels for the dash.



I also decided to pull the motor. Thoroughly expecting the driveshaft to be a bear to remove, I gently tapped the U-joint with a hammer and liberally applied wd-40 to the set screw holes. To my surprise once I yanked the motor mount bolts it just slid right off. (WINNING!)




Now I can repace the crank seal, and I should probably put new bearings in the drive shaft. They don’t sound good at all, and do not turn freely.

Next step is to rebuild the motor, and to get started on the front axle. My hubs and spindles arrived recently also. I decided on the 5 on 4.5 pattern because it’s more common and it just looks cooler.